chengpu42
11-18-2019, 06:14 PM
Before work (minus slide stop)
https://i.imgur.com/XSQu9jNm.jpg
First Generation before changes:
1) Used grip panels from a Kimber Micro .380 (sanded down from .21" to .15") Drilled hole into grip/frame and tapped. Used a small hex screw with a homemade plastic bushing to hold it in place. Considered using a 1911 bushing but did not want to drill such a large hole and it would require a special tap. The screws hold very secure and i used liquid rubber gasket adhesive that can be easily removed under the grip panel.
2) Added a beavertail from a Browning .380 1911 by cutting out a small section of material and drilling a few small mounting holes. Chopped the the grip safety portion off the beavertail (wanted to keep it couldn't make it work) drilled a few small holes and added some small roll pins that lined up with the mounting holes on the frame. Used PC-7 epoxy as glue and mounted/sanded flush.
3) Undercut the trigger guard.
4) Internally the extractor has been filed/sanded which vastly improved feeding. Before it was non stop FTE/FTF almost all fixed. Only issue is GECO 95gr .380 (very thick rim)
5) Filed some sharp points on upper trigger that bit into my finger.
https://i.imgur.com/4uP7hoem.jpg
Second Generation:
Some things did/didn't work out.
1) I undercut the trigger guard to deep into the grip part of the frame and it gave an odd grip sensation in my fingers. So i filled that in with PC-7 and cut more up into the trigger guard/mag release section.
2) I originally cut a small section out of the trigger guard just under the trigger itself to make a resting place for my offhand (not pictured) and it didn't work as intended. Instead i filled it in with epoxy and added more epoxy to make a U-shaped impression. This worked out fantastic and improved my offhand grip. Normally i would put a piece of grip in this position.
3) I wanted the grip panels to extend to the bottom of the frame. I replace the Kimber ones with Browning .380 1911 panels. Sanded them down from .21" to.15" and rounded of the top/bottom. Another nice advantage was the nub extending from the top of the left hand/offhand panel helped keep my thumb off the slide stop.
4) Filed down the slide stop and rounded.
5) The beavertail was nice but needed help. Cut the sharp point off, filled in the gap with PC-7. Drill holes, added some roll pins and built up PC-7 epoxy around it and sides of existing beavertail. Before the epoxy hardened i gripped the gun and allowed the epoxy to form around my hand, then sanded. The new beavertail looks wonky but it fits my hand perfectly.
6) Dehorned/filed down all the sharp edges.
https://i.imgur.com/Jll3pCZm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/muD793wm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/or0bFv7m.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dvM031xm.png https://i.imgur.com/JZXrPChm.png
https://i.imgur.com/8TXjdmHm.png
Its still rough around the edges and needs some clean up work. Next step would be to cerakote the slide and frame. I am hoping were i added epoxy and sanded the frame that it can be etched/bead blasted to give it some texture or return it to the original polymer frame texture as it is to slick now. I also used MagGuts in the the primary mag which has worked great along with some other mag mods to improve last round hold open. I am not sure if this is an issue the serial number is covered by the grip panel. Plan is to cut a small section of the panel out with dremel and fill in with clear epoxy so the serial numbers can be seen.
I love/hate this firearm. It has had so many issues it has been crazy trying to work them all out. I think i have them all worked out now. The last 2 range trips have been flaw free with about 300 rounds down range running various drills. Accuracy is excellent with some trigger training. While it is a .380 i feel confident in the ammo after alot of research Precsion One 90gr XTP and Underwood 65gr Xtreme Defender.
https://i.imgur.com/XSQu9jNm.jpg
First Generation before changes:
1) Used grip panels from a Kimber Micro .380 (sanded down from .21" to .15") Drilled hole into grip/frame and tapped. Used a small hex screw with a homemade plastic bushing to hold it in place. Considered using a 1911 bushing but did not want to drill such a large hole and it would require a special tap. The screws hold very secure and i used liquid rubber gasket adhesive that can be easily removed under the grip panel.
2) Added a beavertail from a Browning .380 1911 by cutting out a small section of material and drilling a few small mounting holes. Chopped the the grip safety portion off the beavertail (wanted to keep it couldn't make it work) drilled a few small holes and added some small roll pins that lined up with the mounting holes on the frame. Used PC-7 epoxy as glue and mounted/sanded flush.
3) Undercut the trigger guard.
4) Internally the extractor has been filed/sanded which vastly improved feeding. Before it was non stop FTE/FTF almost all fixed. Only issue is GECO 95gr .380 (very thick rim)
5) Filed some sharp points on upper trigger that bit into my finger.
https://i.imgur.com/4uP7hoem.jpg
Second Generation:
Some things did/didn't work out.
1) I undercut the trigger guard to deep into the grip part of the frame and it gave an odd grip sensation in my fingers. So i filled that in with PC-7 and cut more up into the trigger guard/mag release section.
2) I originally cut a small section out of the trigger guard just under the trigger itself to make a resting place for my offhand (not pictured) and it didn't work as intended. Instead i filled it in with epoxy and added more epoxy to make a U-shaped impression. This worked out fantastic and improved my offhand grip. Normally i would put a piece of grip in this position.
3) I wanted the grip panels to extend to the bottom of the frame. I replace the Kimber ones with Browning .380 1911 panels. Sanded them down from .21" to.15" and rounded of the top/bottom. Another nice advantage was the nub extending from the top of the left hand/offhand panel helped keep my thumb off the slide stop.
4) Filed down the slide stop and rounded.
5) The beavertail was nice but needed help. Cut the sharp point off, filled in the gap with PC-7. Drill holes, added some roll pins and built up PC-7 epoxy around it and sides of existing beavertail. Before the epoxy hardened i gripped the gun and allowed the epoxy to form around my hand, then sanded. The new beavertail looks wonky but it fits my hand perfectly.
6) Dehorned/filed down all the sharp edges.
https://i.imgur.com/Jll3pCZm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/muD793wm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/or0bFv7m.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dvM031xm.png https://i.imgur.com/JZXrPChm.png
https://i.imgur.com/8TXjdmHm.png
Its still rough around the edges and needs some clean up work. Next step would be to cerakote the slide and frame. I am hoping were i added epoxy and sanded the frame that it can be etched/bead blasted to give it some texture or return it to the original polymer frame texture as it is to slick now. I also used MagGuts in the the primary mag which has worked great along with some other mag mods to improve last round hold open. I am not sure if this is an issue the serial number is covered by the grip panel. Plan is to cut a small section of the panel out with dremel and fill in with clear epoxy so the serial numbers can be seen.
I love/hate this firearm. It has had so many issues it has been crazy trying to work them all out. I think i have them all worked out now. The last 2 range trips have been flaw free with about 300 rounds down range running various drills. Accuracy is excellent with some trigger training. While it is a .380 i feel confident in the ammo after alot of research Precsion One 90gr XTP and Underwood 65gr Xtreme Defender.