I'm not sure that Kahr cares very much about their small 380s

[dustnchips]

I picked up my two new P380s ($300 at shoot-straight) about a week ago. When I did the prep work and changed the strikers on then I found that the shaft on the slide lock was too tight in the frame to function. On both guns I had to sand and polish the shafts down so that they would rotate in the frame. Once that was done I discovered that the spring that holds the lock down was adjusted wrong and would not push it down. Minor readjustment, but the guns were build five days apart in May of 2019. The same problem on both guns? For as long as they have been building these guns I would expect them to know how by now. The 380s still do not come with the Lakeline striker which is a flaw that has been identified for a long time. Anyone want to buy a couple of brand new Kahr strikers cheap? LOL On the four, six rounds mags that came with the two guns I could not remove the base plates for cleaning. I like to clean, check for burs, and lube with silicone spray. I managed to get one started enough with a block of hardwood and a hammer to get a screwdriver in the gap but I quit before I got it off for fear of damaging it. How could they be assembled without someone noticing that they needed that much pressure to get them on? I have a CW380 and a PM9 that I love and expect that these P380s will be great guns to, but they really should be better right out of the box. I'll be glad when the range opens again so I can go break them in. I really don't expect any problems from here in as I did the prep for a new Kahr and the other two guns gave me no real problems.

[gb6491]

On the bright side, you now have a brace of extremely rare, DustnChips customized P380s. :)

[dustnchips]

Hardly customized, but I am happy to have them at such a great price. One is a gift, the other is a gift for me from me.

[DavidR]

Just imagine the poor sap who bought two of those and expected them to work without having to gunsmith them.

I’ve been fortunate with my CT380. 750 rounds with no malfunctions other than a recent issue where the slide no longer locks back on the last round. I thought about buying one of those cheap P380s but decided not to push my luck. IMO the out of the box failure rate is just too high on the 380.

In full disclosure I’m batting 500 on Kahr 380s. My CW380 was a massive dud that Kahr wasn’t able to fix.

[skiflydive]

I bought a new CW .380 with the same slide stop pin tightness. Rather than sanding down the slide stop shaft you might have mic'd the shafts (I bet they were the same) and taken a like sized drill bit and reamed out the plastic holes in the frame. This bore aligns the holes in the frame as well which in retrospect I think was the bigger issue. The way you did it is fine...it worked, but now your slide stop shafts are neither round nor straight and your plastic pin holes will open a bit making the pins a little too small. Just my $.02.

[dustnchips]

I would rather mess up a slide stop than a frame. The idea of improving alignment is not valid as the two holes are different sizes. For the amount that I took off they can not be very out of round and there is no reason that the shaft would not be straight. If they get sloppy in the frame I can buy new stops very cheaply. I always look at the cheapest part to work on if all else is equal. I noticed another thing on one of the guns today. When you look down at the top of the chamber with the gun in battery the lines where the flat top and the angle cuts on the sides meet are not straight. A bit scalloped along both edges. I know they won't be a problem, but sure is bad looking on their premium gun. The only way I will buy another Kahr is from a shop where I can see what I am getting before I buy. Yea, I know no one else will probably ever notice it, but I am a bit particular about things. Other people are OCD, I'm just a bit particular about things. They had sure better run better that they are looking right now. I also checked the extractor grip and found that 2# was sufficient to slide the shells out on both of the guns.

[Funflyer]

I just ordered a P380 from Shoot-Straight, should be here on Thursday. I'm also one of those gun owners who is very particular and want things to work as designed, or better, so I'll be going over the P380 with a fine tooth comb before it ever goes to the range.

[I_Like_Turtles]

I just ordered a P380 from Shoot-Straight, should be here on Thursday. I'm also one of those gun owners who is very particular and want things to work as designed, or better, so I'll be going over the P380 with a fine tooth comb before it ever goes to the range.


Good man, hope it works well for you. When I first heard Kahr had made a .380, I thought "wow, that will be one great .380."

[wally1]

My P380 came back from the factory working great, so I got a Lakeline striker. It became hard to rack. After some polishing on the new striker, it loosened up.
I shot some Armscor through it and had several light striker hits, several failures to return to battery, and a couple of stove pipes.
Shot some other ammo and it seemed ok.
I'm wondering if I will have to break it in all over again or maybe just go back to the factory striker.

[DavidR]

My P380 came back from the factory working great, so I got a Lakeline striker. It became hard to rack. After some polishing on the new striker, it loosened up.
I shot some Armscor through it and had several light striker hits, several failures to return to battery, and a couple of stove pipes.
Shot some other ammo and it seemed ok.
I'm wondering if I will have to break it in all over again or maybe just go back to the factory striker.

That’s the first I’ve heard of problems caused by installing the Lakeline striker. It should not need a new break in.

[DJK11]

Complain, complain, complain! You got a deal at $300 maybe that’s why so inexpensive.

[DavidR]

Complain, complain, complain! You got a deal at $300 maybe that’s why so inexpensive.

They weren’t marketed as defective or seconds.

[DJK11]

Then they must be in spec. Kahrs spec. that is.

[DJK11]

Could you identify a Kahr blem?

[dustnchips]

DJK1 What about the people that paid $600 for the guns? A blemish is a cosmedic defect, not a functional problem.

Wally1 I don't see how the striker would affect the stovepipeing and failure to return to battery. The striker is out of play once it has hit the primer. Did you get the recoil springs in backward? A failure to return completely to battery but still almost home could cause a light strike.

[DJK11]

I paid $560 for mine. An RAxxxx from the first production run ten years ago. I had problems, first 560 rounds then back to the mother ship. Now with more than a 5k round count, most of the parts have been replaced.

Have you put a round through it? Why not run it and then start complaining. And don’t use junk brake it in ammo. Run full power loads. Was your FFL forcing you to accept the transfer. Inspection before signing.

Also I have purchased a Kahr blem PM45 and there was no cosmetic abnormalities. I needed an electron microscope to find the “B”.

[dustnchips]

I have not shot them yet and do not anticipate any function problems. No ranges opened around here. I've got some Winchester and Precision One for break in. My CW380 and PM9 ran fine after I did the new Kahr prep on them.
Yes, I could have done a better inspection on them and then gotten involved in shipping them back and forth. That is why I will not buy another Kahr on line. I'll only buy a Kahr in a gun shop where I can take my time and do a through inspection. I always take my guns apart and clean and polish them before I shoot them and the bit of work I had to do on these was no big deal to me, but could be a problem for others. The mags were so tight that I did not want to attempt re bending the loser lips or opening up the grove in the base plates. I understand that **** happens and problems do get out the door, but it seems to happen a lot on the small 380s and seldom on their other guns.

I think your statement makes my point that they could do better out the door than they have been doing.



I paid $560 for mine. An RAxxxx from the first production run ten years ago. I had problems, first 560 rounds then back to the mother ship. Now with more than a 5k round count, most of the parts have been replaced.

[DJK11]

My point was stated in post #11

[DavidR]

My point was stated in post #11

A post well-ignored.

[topgun1953]

Oh folks... don't make Bawanna come over here to calm you down! My $299 is running fine after 300 rounds. My range is opening up Saturday so yipee I can go shoot my guns again!

[Bawanna]

Thank you Deputy.

[wally1]

I had to check just now, but the recoil springs are installed properly, never took them off the guide. The striker spacer seemed to be hanging up on the striker. Polished here and there and got it to work smoothly.

I had gotten 400 rounds of the Armscor after reading here that it functioned well in the P380. Had all the problems with 25 rounds of Armscor.

The two light strikes didn't look light, the first one went bang on the next try and the second one took two more tries. Then I ran 6 rounds of hollow point (can't remember the brand) and 13 rounds of Remington 380 FMJ with no problems. Six rounds of Armscor after that were ok also.



Wally1 I don't see how the striker would affect the stovepipeing and failure to return to battery. The striker is out of play once it has hit the primer. Did you get the recoil springs in backward? A failure to return completely to battery but still almost home could cause a light strike.

[King Rat]

And Yet, My P380 after pre break in before actually shooting the pistol ran like a sewing machine for 200 rds. My first one, where I did not do the pre-break in did take about 150-200 rds, but that one runs great now. Never a problem.

And If I was to buy another P380 at the $299.00 sale price, I would bet a dollar to a doughnut, that It would run Great as well.
I personally would not put a Lakeline striker in the pistol before breaking the gun in. Why take it down when new? And I doubt there is anything wrong with the Lakeline. Did put one in my first one, after it was broken in and runs fine.
I would have about 600 rds by now through the gun, but my range closed down right after I tested this one. Almost feel like buying another one at that price. Best deal on a gun I have seen in years. I love the Little Kahr.

https://i.imgur.com/eVsR9lf.jpg?2

[dustnchips]

@topgun Lucky you, wish mine would open up.

[Funflyer]

Picked up my P380 today. First thing I noticed is the slide stop is the same as dustnchips was, too snug and the spring doesn't have enough pressure to push it down without help. More to come after I go over it tomorrow.

[wally1]

The gun was broken in. It ran perfectly after it came back from the factory. I put the Lakeline striker in as added insurance. It was night and day - the factory set up was fine, the Lakeline was not. I'm not the type to just send something back, I have a need to find the problem. The striker spacer was hanging up on the striker - nothing imaginary there. I fixed that problem, the rest of the problems seemed to be more about the ammo.


And Yet, My P380 after pre break in before actually shooting the pistol ran like a sewing machine for 200 rds. My first one, where I did not do the pre-break in did take about 150-200 rds, but that one runs great now. Never a problem.

And If I was to buy another P380 at the $299.00 sale price, I would bet a dollar to a doughnut, that It would run Great as well.
I personally would not put a Lakeline striker in the pistol before breaking the gun in. Why take it down when new? And I doubt there is anything wrong with the Lakeline. Did put one in my first one, after it was broken in and runs fine.
I would have about 600 rds by now through the gun, but my range closed down right after I tested this one. Almost feel like buying another one at that price. Best deal on a gun I have seen in years. I love the Little Kahr.

https://i.imgur.com/eVsR9lf.jpg?2

[dustnchips]

@wally1 Glad you got it running. Sure wish things would open up around here so I can go shoot.

[Funflyer]

Prepped my new P380 for the range yesterday. Had to do the same polish job as dustnchips did to the slide stop. The coating, or Kahr's poor job of applying it, is what causes it to be too tight in the frame. The coating on mine was too thick and lumpy, and also missing in some places. The 6 round magazine base plates were also impossible to remove without help from a mallet and drift. For some reason Kahr crimped one corner after assembly. They were easy enough to straighten out so they remove/install like a normal magazine. I'd post some pictures but I see this forum has the same rule as some others requiring your post count to be 30 before you can post pics.

[Bawanna]

You can post with one of the photo programs, postimage, tiny pic etc. Your half way there on the post count.

[Funflyer]

You can post with one of the photo programs, postimage, tiny pic etc. Your half way there on the post count.

I used tinypic but they got greedy like some of the rest did. It sure messed up some good forum threads with a lot of valuable information when all the pice got deleted. I won't ever do that again so I'm just going to have to resort to non-value-added replies to get to the 30 mark.

[Funflyer]

Here are the pics of the slide stop and magazine issues. You can see how poorly the coating was applied to the stop and right where the magazine base plates were crimped.

[DavidR]

Makes me wonder how well the black finish will hold up.

[dustnchips]

All for of my mags had both sides of the bases bent in like your one corner. I sent them in. I should have marked them so I would know if they repaired or replaced. Just curious, it dosent matter as long as they work.

[Bawanna]

That mag looks like it was dropped at some point to me.

[dustnchips]

I don't see how a drop could bend the top in as this one seems to have the bottom bent up a bit and the top rail down. Mine were even along the whole length, not just on the corner like this one.

[Funflyer]

Makes me wonder how well the black finish will hold up.

The coating on the stop doesn't appear to be the same as the coating on the slide.



I don't see how a drop could bend the top in as this one seems to have the bottom bent up a bit and the top rail down. Mine were even along the whole length, not just on the corner like this one.

Exactly, both the bottom and top of that lip were distorted like they were squeezed together with pliers. Both my mags had the same corner crimped, coincidence?

[berettabone]

Yeah, those wonderful .380's...................................:blah:

[Funflyer]

Yeah, those wonderful .380's...................................:blah:


Caliber has nothing to do with it. It's the Dolts who these companies hire that don't care.

[berettabone]

Caliber has nothing to do with it. It's the Dolts who these companies hire that don't care. In this instance, I wasn't disparaging the caliber, it was a reference to which firearm is the BIGGEST problem child.:rolleyes:

[Bawanna]

Caliber has nothing to do with it. It's the Dolts who these companies hire that don't care.

I suspect the magazines are contracted out but I got nothing solid to back that up with.
We're very careful around here not to slander Kahr employees, they are a protected species in these parts.

[topgun1953]

I suspect the magazines are contracted out but I got nothing solid to back that up with.
We're very careful around here not to slander Kahr employees, they are a protected species in these parts.

As recently as a year ago, I know they were being contracted out. A friend has a friend that works there. Having spent a large portion of my life in and around the Worcester area (grad of WPI) I still have family and friends in the area. I do NOT miss the cold and the snow...been in Charlotte 20 years now...geesh.. i'm getting old...retiring from 16 years of teaching high school at the end of this academic year and the awful "remote learning" experience. :amflag:

[Just Bob]

Well I too jumped on this bandwagon and bought 2 P380s from Shoot Straight. It was a hellava deal. Now that I have them I’m not sure I’m man enough to rack them let alone my wife. I’ve cleaned the 1st one and it might be slightly better but no rounds through either of them. Just have to see after a couple hundred rounds. Any words about making them easier to rack?

[DavidR]

They will loosen up a little with some rounds through it but not much.

Leave them with the slide locked back for a few days.

Small strips of skateboard tape in the slide serrations can help get a better grip.

[berettabone]

Well I too jumped on this bandwagon and bought 2 P380s from Shoot Straight. It was a hellava deal. Now that I have them I’m not sure I’m man enough to rack them let alone my wife. I’ve cleaned the 1st one and it might be slightly better but no rounds through either of them. Just have to see after a couple hundred rounds. Any words about making them easier to rack? It won't get much/any easier with rds. through or leaving it locked back...………..my wife had to go to an LCP II for this reason. My MK9 had to move on because of this reason. Too difficult to clear a jam effectively in a dangerous situation for people with small hands or limited hand strength. Paid $251 for the wife to be armed.

[dustnchips]

Not great in a defensive situation, but I rack the slide by putting my off hand over the top of the slide and pushing the slide back. It gives a lot better grip than just a thumb and finger on the slide. It also allows you to move the gun in closer to your chest where you have more power.

[berettabone]

Many different techniques to racking a slide. None of them matter if the hand strength isn't there. A firearm that you have to wrestle with is not worth the time, or problems it can cause. Too many choices out there to have to struggle with a slide.

[I_Like_Turtles]

Many different techniques to racking a slide. None of them matter if the hand strength isn't there. A firearm that you have to wrestle with is not worth the time, or problems it can cause. Too many choices out there to have to struggle with a slide.

I have seen grown men lack the forearm strength to rack the slide on weapons I thought were "easy" to rack the slide on. My vintage K9 slide has a very stout recoil spring, I am sure there are men I know that couldn't rack it.

Revolvers are just easier for most shooters to manipulate. They may not shoot them as well in double action but they'll load and unload them much easier.

[Funflyer]

Well I too jumped on this bandwagon and bought 2 P380s from Shoot Straight. It was a hellava deal. Now that I have them I’m not sure I’m man enough to rack them let alone my wife. I’ve cleaned the 1st one and it might be slightly better but no rounds through either of them. Just have to see after a couple hundred rounds. Any words about making them easier to rack?

Part of what you're feeling may be the tight fit of the slide to frame. Of my dozen or so 380's the P380 has to be the tightest one yet. I followed the break-in advice of the sticky thread and lubed the gun real well, then racked the slide 200 or more times. After that, I cleaned and relubed the gun again and could feel a pretty significant difference (easier) in the movement of the slide. It helps if you remove the inner recoil spring to do this pre-breakin procedure, just don't forget to reinstall it before actually firing the gun.

[berettabone]

I've racked a few in my lifetime and with .380's, the only easy/easiest ones were the EZ380 and the little Sigs..........the LCP's would be next. As you get older and lose hand strength, it's imperative that you be able to operate what ever you carry. It's one reason why I have gone back to a revolver for carry. No worries about function, only the operator.:) I don't worry about my H&K's. Can still rack them with ease...……………………….

[boscobarbell]

I can probably rack my RM380 slide with a thumb and one finger. It really is an under appreciated design--small, light, easy to operate, apparently incapable of malfunctioning regardless of ammo. I'm sure part of the reason is the long DA trigger that, albeit smooth, is heavier than most shooters would prefer.

[Funflyer]

I've racked a few in my lifetime and with .380's, the only easy/easiest ones were the EZ380 and the little Sigs..........the LCP's would be next. As you get older and lose hand strength, it's imperative that you be able to operate what ever you carry. It's one reason why I have gone back to a revolver for carry. No worries about function, only the operator.:) I don't worry about my H&K's. Can still rack them with ease...……………………….

I have a 380EZ and yes it's about the easiest to manipulate of all the 380's. Don't really know why I bought one, I won't carry it, and I'd gladly trade it for another P380. The next in line for easy to rack would be the Remington RM380. Don't have an LCP, but the RM380 is a bit easier than the LCPII, and a much nicer gun.

[berettabone]

I have a 380EZ and yes it's about the easiest to manipulate of all the 380's. Don't really know why I bought one, I won't carry it, and I'd gladly trade it for another P380. The next in line for easy to rack would be the Remington RM380. Don't have an LCP, but the RM380 is a bit easier than the LCPII, and a much nicer gun. I guess it depends on what you consider a nicer firearm. The LCP II is lighter, shorter, thinner, has less height, and has a MUCH better trigger than the RM. At the same price point, there isn't enough difference in quality to get me to choose an RM over the LCP II. The clincher for me is the RM trigger. Same as the Bodyguard, the older LCP's, and most of the pocket guns. Too long...………………………………….

[Funflyer]

I guess it depends on what you consider a nicer firearm. The LCP II is lighter, shorter, thinner, has less height, and has a MUCH better trigger than the RM. At the same price point, there isn't enough difference in quality to get me to choose an RM over the LCP II. The clincher for me is the RM trigger. Same as the Bodyguard, the older LCP's, and most of the pocket guns. Too long...………………………………….

The RM has an alloy frame yet weighs less than 2 ounces more than the LCPII. Yes the RM has what I consider a proper trigger for a backup 380, long yet light and smooooooth. My RMs trigger has settled in at 6 pounds and is as nice as a Kahr trigger, just longer because it's hammer fired. My LCPII's trigger has settled in at 5-1/2 pounds with some creep. It's recoil impulse is harsh like that of a blow-back design. The RM, though negligibly larger, shoots like a pussycat by comparison and is much more accurate despite the long trigger pull. Both are equally reliable and have been 100% through more than 1000 rounds.

[boscobarbell]

The RM has an alloy frame yet weighs less than 2 ounces more than the LCPII. Yes the RM has what I consider a proper trigger for a backup 380, long yet light and smooooooth. My RMs trigger has settled in at 6 pounds and is as nice as a Kahr trigger, just longer because it's hammer fired. My LCPII's trigger has settled in at 5-1/2 pounds with some creep. It's recoil impulse is harsh like that of a blow-back design. The RM, though negligibly larger, shoots like a pussycat by comparison and is much more accurate despite the long trigger pull. Both are equally reliable and have been 100% through more than 1000 rounds.

Agree agree agree. I've owned both. Night and day difference, both in the hand and while shooting. I HATED that LCP II trigger. I have the Galloway springs in my RM380, and after 500-600 rounds and almost that many dry fires the trigger is incredibly smooth and considerably lighter than out of the box. Matter of fact, I love my RM380 so much that I had it hard chromed, and I have both colors of the Remington wooden grips (can't decide which I like more)...looks like a little custom piece now.

What are you using for SD ammo in yours?

[King Rat]

Agree agree agree. I've owned both. Night and day difference, both in the hand and while shooting. I HATED that LCP II trigger. I have the Galloway springs in my RM380, and after 500-600 rounds and almost that many dry fires the trigger is incredibly smooth and considerably lighter than out of the box. Matter of fact, I love my RM380 so much that I had it hard chromed, and I have both colors of the Remington wooden grips (can't decide which I like more)...looks like a little custom piece now.

What are you using for SD ammo in yours?

I am going on a hunch that I have more experience with the LCP's than most. I won't get into the particulars other than to say I went through quite a number of them. Lol, learned my lesson the hard way. No more. I moved on when the LCPll came out. Yep, hate that trigger with a passion and feel it is totally unsafe. Not to mention how weird it is.

RM380. Do not own one, but would love to have one in my collection. I have shot them. Very mild, nice DAO trigger and a very cool looking gun. I keep looking for a deal on one, but that will obviously not be for a while with the Panic going on. How much did the Hard Chrome run you and who did it? The only concern I have with buying a RM380 is the aluminum chassis especially since I shoot these guns often and the Ruger's put a bad taste in my mouth with aluminum frames. If you get a chance, how about a pic of yours.

[Funflyer]

What are you using for SD ammo in yours?

I use Hornady 90gn XTPs and reload all my SD ammo. The FTX is a great bullet also. I've been considering changing to the 102gn Remington Golden Saber when the reloading bullets become available again.

[boscobarbell]

I am going on a hunch that I have more experience with the LCP's than most. I won't get into the particulars other than to say I went through quite a number of them. Lol, learned my lesson the hard way. No more. I moved on when the LCPll came out. Yep, hate that trigger with a passion and feel it is totally unsafe. Not to mention how weird it is.

RM380. Do not own one, but would love to have one in my collection. I have shot them. Very mild, nice DAO trigger and a very cool looking gun. I keep looking for a deal on one, but that will obviously not be for a while with the Panic going on. How much did the Hard Chrome run you and who did it? The only concern I have with buying a RM380 is the aluminum chassis especially since I shoot these guns often and the Ruger's put a bad taste in my mouth with aluminum frames. If you get a chance, how about a pic of yours.

I sent my to Mahovsky Metal Works. Really great company, run by the guy who pioneered the treatment and his daughter. Good people. I think my cost was $200-250 for the entire gun, including two magazines.

I certainly don't shoot as much as you do, and when I do put a lot of rounds downrange I usually use my H&K range/home defense guns. I understand your concerns about aluminum, so I see this more as a shoot-a-little, carry-a-lot pistol. I'm not afraid to shoot it, mind you, but I do look at it in terms of long-term functionality.

16744

[boscobarbell]

I use Hornady 90gn XTPs and reload all my SD ammo. The FTX is a great bullet also. I've been considering changing to the 102gn Remington Golden Saber when the reloading bullets become available again.

Okay, sounds about right. I have settled on Hornady Critical Defense, Underwood XTP, and Underwood Extreme Defender. All function great, and all seem to perform well in gel tests. I was regretting the fact that the Remington isn't approved for +P, but the gel tests don't seem to show much of a difference...certainly not enough to risk pistol damage.

[King Rat]

I sent my to Mahovsky Metal Works. Really great company, run by the guy who pioneered the treatment and his daughter. Good people. I think my cost was $200-250 for the entire gun, including two magazines.

I certainly don't shoot as much as you do, and when I do put a lot of rounds downrange I usually use my H&K range/home defense guns. I understand your concerns about aluminum, so I see this more as a shoot-a-little, carry-a-lot pistol. I'm not afraid to shoot it, mind you, but I do look at it in terms of long-term functionality.



16744

That really is a nice looking gun. Really like that grip. If I made the investment you did and well worth it, I would carry it more than shoot it as well. In fact if I do get one, I would probably not get it chromed, but just shoot it until I knew it was reliable and just shoot the other guns. It makes for a pretty carry gun. I think I would get a really nice leather holster for it. I have gotten to the point that I shoot the Micro's, revolvers and pocket guns so much that they all seem pretty much the same.
Thanks for sharing.

That Chrome does look great! Nice collection piece.

[DavidR]

I have an RM380.

The good:
100% flawless through 875 rounds
Cycles all ammo
Slide is super easy to rack
Recoil light compared to LCP

The bad:
Trigger is longer and heavier than CT380
A little blocky for pocket carry
Slide finish is poor
Frame shows a lot of wear

Overall I like the RM380. I immediately put the Galloway spring kit in which lightened the pull. This post has reminded me that I also recently put the Galloway short stroke trigger in it but have never range tested that.

Here’s a pic of the frame wear:
https://i.imgur.com/kjnrm3a.jpg

[DavidR]

boscobarbell -

Your RM380 looks really nice with that finish and grip!

I’m not sure that Remington will survive so at some point it may make sense to stock up on spare parts in case something breaks.

[King Rat]

I have an RM380.

The good:
100% flawless through 850 rounds
Cycles all ammo
Slide is super easy to rack


The bad:
Trigger is longer and heavier than CT380
A little blocky for pocket carry
Slide finish is poor
Frame shows a lot of wear

Overall I like the RM380. I immediately put the Galloway spring kit in which lightened the pull. This post has reminded me that I also recently put the Galloway short stroke trigger in it but have never range tested that.

Here’s a pic of the frame wear:
https://i.imgur.com/kjnrm3a.jpg

David, how many rounds do you estimate that you have fired through yours? What kind of Warranty does Remington give?

[DavidR]

David, how many rounds do you estimate that you have fired through yours? What kind of Warranty does Remington give?

That picture was taken after 875 rounds (I keep track and just checked my notes).

I’m not sure about the warranty. I recall someone on the Remington forum sending pics of their wear to Remington and Remington said it was normal.

My pics are a little fuzzy. I can take better ones if you’d like me to.

[King Rat]

That picture was taken after 875 rounds (I keep track and just checked my notes).

I’m not sure about the warranty. I recall someone on the Remington forum sending pics of their wear to Remington and Remington said it was normal.

My pics are a little fuzzy. I can take better ones if you’d like me to.


Thanks for the pic. That one is fine. It does look like it has taken a beating. I would always advocate anyone owning a LCP to constantly check the gun for cracks etc. Most especially at around the 1500 rd mark. I also believe that small 380's should have steel chassis, or steel inserts. The LCP for instance should have never been a 380, but would have been a nice firearm in 32.cal. It would seem or seems like the 32.cal is becoming more popular recently. Ruger came out with the 22.cal, which was great (forgoing the crazy trigger), but IMO they would have done well to make the gun in 32. Just a thought.

[berettabone]

The RM has an alloy frame yet weighs less than 2 ounces more than the LCPII. Yes the RM has what I consider a proper trigger for a backup 380, long yet light and smooooooth. My RMs trigger has settled in at 6 pounds and is as nice as a Kahr trigger, just longer because it's hammer fired. My LCPII's trigger has settled in at 5-1/2 pounds with some creep. It's recoil impulse is harsh like that of a blow-back design. The RM, though negligibly larger, shoots like a pussycat by comparison and is much more accurate despite the long trigger pull. Both are equally reliable and have been 100% through more than 1000 rounds. Please,
I need to know your secret as how to get a 10 lb. trigger to settle in at 6 lbs...………………………...

[boscobarbell]

Thanks for the pic. That one is fine. It does look like it has taken a beating. I would always advocate anyone owning a LCP to constantly check the gun for cracks etc. Most especially at around the 1500 rd mark. I also believe that small 380's should have steel chassis, or steel inserts. The LCP for instance should have never been a 380, but would have been a nice firearm in 32.cal. It would seem or seems like the 32.cal is becoming more popular recently. Ruger came out with the 22.cal, which was great (forgoing the crazy trigger), but IMO they would have done well to make the gun in 32. Just a thought.

I had some peening/wear after the first 300 rounds or so, but it seemed to settle down and never progressed much. Now that it is hard chromed, I don't expect that to be an issue any more (fingers crossed).

[boscobarbell]

Please,
I need to know your secret as how to get a 10 lb. trigger to settle in at 6 lbs...………………………...

Well, I don't have gauge, so for me this is an inexact science. But the combination of the Galloway springs and LOTS of dry firing has really helped my trigger. I don't know if it is down to 6 pounds, but it is certainly much lighter than 10, and incredibly smooth.

I just checked the mcarbo page for their spring package, and they advertise an even lighter pull. https://www.mcarbo.com/remington-rm380-trigger-spring-kit.aspx

[Funflyer]

Please,
I need to know your secret as how to get a 10 lb. trigger to settle in at 6 lbs...………………………...

I keep no secrets. You can read my trigger thread on the Remington forum HERE (http://www.remingtonowners.com/post21761.html#p21761).

[boscobarbell]

I keep no secrets. You can read my trigger thread on the Remington forum HERE (http://www.remingtonowners.com/post21761.html#p21761).

Re-reading that thread reminded me that I also installed the Galloway seat.

[Armybrat]

Speaking of RM380 pistols, I lucked on to a great deal for this new one at CDNN several months ago for $199.99.It included five magazines. Have not shot it yet, but fit & finish are very good.

[boscobarbell]

Speaking of RM380 pistols, I lucked on to a great deal for this new one at CDNN several months ago for $199.99.It included five magazines. Have not shot it yet, but fit & finish are very good.

Wow...great deal. Congrats.

I will warn you that, unless they are doing something different these days, that nice finish won't last. I take good care of my pistols, but mine looked considerably older after a very short period of time. Part of the reason I ended up getting it hard chromed.

Also, in case you haven't read much of the stuff above, the Galloway upgrades--and use--will make your trigger worlds better. A really minor investment for the benefit.

[Armybrat]

Will consider the trigger upgrades, but if the finish wears... well, I’m pretty worn myself.

[boscobarbell]

Will consider the trigger upgrades, but if the finish wears... well, I’m pretty worn myself.


Haha. Right there with ya.

[wally1]

Speaking of RM380 pistols, I lucked on to a great deal for this new one at CDNN several months ago for $199.99.It included five magazines. Have not shot it yet, but fit & finish are very good.

I got one of those also, it's a nice little gun but heavier than the P380. Bought some more magazines ( not that I needed more than the 5 it came with) for $9.99 each.
https://www.cdnnsports.com/remington-rm380-6rd-380-finger-extension-magazine.html#.XrqJO9aSmUk

[dustnchips]

From Kahr CS.
Larry. they are fixed they are now easier to take off and will be shipped back, also it's better for the magazine base to be a bit more difficult to take off since you don't want it to possibly be too loose while under tension. If you need to make the bottom tighter you can crimp it to do so.

I may be overly sensitive, but I find the bit about coming off too easily an insult to my intellegence. Without any guts in them all of my other mag bases slide on and off easily and none of them have ever just come apart. If friction holds them together why the round lump in the hole that needs to be depressed. Sounds a bit to me like they are still to tight and they are already making excuses. If they do not work as easily as my other Kahr mags they will go back again. The only tool that should be required is something to depress the retaining pin.

[berettabone]

Magazines have been one of the places where they save denaro for years........................

[I_Like_Turtles]

I figured that was it.....I think the Kahr magazine bases are a bit crude.

[dustnchips]

I got my four, six round 380 mags back today. They come apart perfectly now. Don't know if they are the same ones or new. I just built up trouble in my head due to the e-mail they sent me. I'm a happy camper except that the ranges are still closed so I can't go shoot them.

[cobrasjp]

When I did the prep work and changed the strikers on then I found that the shaft on the slide lock was too tight in the frame to function. On both guns I had to sand and polish the shafts down so that they would rotate in the frame.

To get back to the slide lock issue in the OP.

Did your P380 not come with a two-piece slide lock that lets the lever rotate around the pin?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/idxuynygg0v093k/20200515_223358.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jd8ju9h06xw6h14/20200515_223629.mp4?dl=0

Since the lever rotates on the pin, the tightness of the pin in the frame has no effect on the lever moving up and down. A pin that's very tight in the frame would not prevent the slide lock lever from operating.

All my P-series have the two-piece slide lock, including my P380.

And, if I understand you correctly, you modified (by sanding the slide lock pin) a new gun without even shooting it?

[dustnchips]

No, my slide lock does not slide around the pin. I did not pick up on that fact when I did the prep work. My PM9 has the slide lock that you describe, but the P380s are like my CW380. I think there is some BS going on with these "sale" guns that we don't know about. Someone else posted early on on this post that they had the same problem that I did.

[dustnchips]

I just checked the P380 slide locks. They do show the the same ring on the surface of the lever as the PM9, but they do not rotate on the pins like the PM9. It may be the finish on the pin keeping it from spinning. Probably the same reason the pins did not spin in the frames when I got them. The PM9 is bare stainless.

[cobrasjp]

I’ve got a P9 with the black DLC finish. The slide lock is the two piece design and the lever rotates on the pin. Maybe yours is just a little tight and you need to oil it with a thin gun oil and work it around a little.


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[Bawanna]

I'm not sure if there's any set plan for those pins. Some are the two piece and rotate, some or one piece and don't.
Not sure it's model specific.

I always lube mine a bit either style, it moves so it should have oil or grease.

[cobrasjp]

I believe the premium series (P and T) have the two piece slide lock. The value series (C) has the one piece slide lock.

The Kahr website shows this if you look at the various models. That’s also been my experience based on the P and C series pistols I’ve owned.

I always thought this was commonly known as one of the extra features of the premium series.


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[Funflyer]

No, my slide lock does not slide around the pin. I did not pick up on that fact when I did the prep work. My PM9 has the slide lock that you describe, but the P380s are like my CW380. I think there is some BS going on with these "sale" guns that we don't know about. Someone else posted early on on this post that they had the same problem that I did.

That would be me. After taking a close look at mine, I believe you're right about BS "sale" guns. Looking closely you can see where the two pieces are pinned. A pin wouldn't be necessary if they weren't designed to rotate freely, a press fit would have been cheaper to manufacture. I don't have an issue with the way mine is, but out of curiosity I think I'll give Kahr a call and ask what's going on.

[Bawanna]

Your saying your pin doesn't rotate? That cross pin is what retains the main pin. It should spin but again it doesn't really need to.

[gb6491]

Your saying your pin doesn't rotate? That cross pin is what retains the main pin. It should spin but again it doesn't really need to.
Yep, well said Colonel.

I'm of a mind that the construction of the three piece stops makes it probable that the pin could spin, but that the main intent was to securely fasten the MIM lever to the proprietary steel pin. It's not necessary that the lever move independently of the pin for the stop to function properly. That some pins spin and other don't are most likely due to some nuance in the manufacture of each individual stop. It doesn't mean one or the other is defective. I dare say any of the three piece stops could be "worked" so that their pin spins. Likewise, weeping some Loctite into the union of the pin and lever would stop the pin from spinning.
Regards,
Greg