how can i sand the wood grips down a bit ?

[hedgehog]

Id like to remove some wood and create a very slight "thumb groove"

how can i do so, and then bring the finish back so it will match the rest ?

I have some of that tung oil, not sure how to use it.

[Bawanna]

Are the grips smooth with no checkering? If so then you can just use a file or a half round or a chainsaw file or even a dremel with a rolled sand paper disc if your careful. Then once you get the shape you want you can smooth it all out with sandpaper on a dowel or whatever it takes to cover the shape you've created. I just start with 120 grit and usually 280 or 320 is plenty smooth enough for a nice finish. If the grip is oil finished to begin with its easy to just blend it back in or just sand the whole grip down and then oil.
I apply the oil just using finger dips and rubbing it in. Let it set a few minutes and wipe the excess off with a rag. A few hours later you can hit it again the same way. You can thin tung oil down with mineral spirits if need be but on a grip you'll probably do ok the way it is. I use more linseed oil than tung oil but can't say that one is any better than the other. Tung oil I believe actually is a bit more water resistant but I don't figure my grips are gonna be soaking in water anyhow.

[hedgehog]

Cool! I do have the checkered grips though

[Bawanna]

Do just what we talked about before. Get the shape and size and whatever you want. If you get into the checkering which you probably will let me know and we'll make a plan to get them to me for a few days and I'll put the checkering back. Just shape and finish to whatever point you want, don't put any oil on. We can do that after.

[hedgehog]

ok cool!

[steve666]

I've heard that the dust from when you sand Coco Bolo is something you should avoid breathing in, so I would suggest a mask.

[Bawanna]

Just about any wood with a reddish tint is toxic. I've had enough Coco Bolo in my system that my hands blistered and my ring around the collar was red. Hands are a bit numb. When I can force myself or if I'm working it steady, I try to wear latex gloves too but that usually don't last very long. The respirator, (a dust mask helps but don't stop it all) usually goes by the way side also. Just gets between a man and his wood.
Theres a few other varieties of wood that are far worse than Coco Bolo also. But it sure is pretty.....................

I laugh at the guys that want to make sure the grip is coated in something hyper allergenic so they don't absorb any Coco Bolo juice in their hand while shooting.

[quikduk]

Hi Bawanna! :typing:

I have worked with all types...oh wait...we are talking about WOODworking.

OK.

Anyway I have also worked with a lot of "wood" types too and Bawanna is correct re: the hazards. Anytime I sand a "hardwood", I wear a respirator designed for that size of dust particles (removable filters). I also wear this when finishing wood with lacquers or polyurethanes but not oil and wax.

Essentially, the small fibers will cling to the scilia (sp) in your lungs and screw with your respiratory system...permanently. Some woods are down right deadly if enough material is inhaled (Pau Ferro, Andaman Island Padouk, Ebony, Purple Heart, Zebra Wood (look at how it striped their hides...:crazy: ) so better to be safe than sorry.

Wearing "Nitrile" gloves is a good idea but they make several different grades. The hospital grade is very strong and much more tear resistant than most. Vinyl, PVC or latex are crap IMHO as they disintegrate easily.

I would follow Bawanna's directions re: the grooving and send back to him if you want the checkering replaced. I would personally leave it off of the grooved area like most 1911 grooved grips I have seen...but that is just me and some say I am weird. :crazy: