K9 Disassembly/Reassembly Q?

[9mm]

Got new K9. My first semi-auto that is not a .22. I was follwing the instructions to prep gun before first range visit. (great thread Jocko)

Had extremely hard time getting slide OFF originally, and back ON after cleaning and oil.

Getting slide OFF: The Kahr website video makes it looks so easy. They say just take it off and it slides right off. I follow the manual and depress the trigger, but it is a Fight. After 20 attempts and jiggling/wiggling, it jerks loose.

Same with back ON. A Fight. The slide goes on and the guide rod protrudes and it gets stuck in the middle and won't go either way. I depress the Ejector to get slide over and follow all the instructions.

Q. What is happening?
What is the trick?

Now my slide is slightly loose and I can hear it when I rock it side to side. Before, tight without a sound.

Have I damaged my gun before the first shot?

Concerned.

Thank you in advance.

[Bawanna]

Try to take it apart and see what things look like. I don't think you can miss the link hole with the slide stop lever/ pin but perhaps. I've heard it's bad if you do.
When I take my K apart, I line up the marks, remove the slide stop lever/pin, mine is really hard, have to use something to push with. Once thats out I start to slide the slide off the front, when it hits resistance I pull the trigger and sometimes wiggle it a bit and the slide continues off.
When I reaasemble I start the slide until the link hole lines up with the frame hole, I start the slide stop pin in right then. Then I move the slide back towards the witness marks. If I hit resistance I pull or just wiggle the trigger a bit. Quite often I have to take it back off and realign my guide rod, it's like if it's not in just the right spot, she just won't go. I can' take it apart 20 times without trouble and the 21st time I'll think I'm gonna have to send it in, I just fight it. I always get it but sometimes it's tough.
Let us know how she goes when you take it apart again.

[MikeyKahr]

Hey 9mm, how's the K9 doing? Any luck after Bawanna45cal's advice?

[hedgehog]

sometimes re-insertion requires you to depress the ejector slightly, at least that's how on my T9

[wyntrout]

I just took mine apart... the slide off, back on, inserted pin, removed pin and repeated with no problem.
After unloading and releasing the slide back into battery on an empty chamber, I lock the slide back, and insert my block that keeps the slide aligned for the slide lock removal. I bought one of the orange blocks from Kahr when I was ordering some other stuff. Before I got that, I just looked for whatever was the right size... a Sharpie pen works for me, too. I can put one end in my mouth and use both hands to position the slide and then wedge whatever part of the Sharpie it takes to hold the slide in the right position for slide lock removal or insertion. I don't really need it for insertion. I can start the pin in and into the hole on the barrel lug, then position the slide and push the slide lock home. I have to use a screwdriver handle to tap the pin inward to start its removal.

My K9 doesn't have any witness marks (like the polymer models have) and you line up the slide cutout with the slide lock pin for insertion/removal... unlike the polymer models which have witness marks. :D They have two cutouts that need to be aligned properly. I can use both hands and hold the slide in alignment with the right side up. I just feel the alignment as I push up on the pin with my fingers and when the pin seems to find the hole, I push it in while looking down on the right side of the gun.

For slide removal, I have to pull the trigger, hold the trigger until the slide meets some resistance after about 1/2" or so travel forward and then release the trigger slowly as the slide is pulled right off... no problem.

For re-installing the slide, I just slide it on... no need to pull or work the trigger.

It seems like you might have to hold the ejector and part of the cam down on some models... sometimes, but I didn't have any problem with my K9.

Make sure you seat the back of the recoil spring guide centered in the frame. That niche/lug is off center a bit. And the open end of the recoil spring goes to the front.

My K9 is about 12 11/2 years old and hasn't fired 1000 rounds. The recoil spring is still REALLY strong. I keep thinking and saying that I got it in march '97, but I got it March '98.

I added some pictures of my "blocks" for the K9. The blocking part is .408" thick and a .45 ACP cartridge, or better, a .45 snap cap placed as shown... the cartridge... the snap cap is just for comparison and not in use in the pictures.

Wynn

[ripley16]

Just thinking outloud... but sometimes we can overthink a proceedure. I've learned to not "baby" the Kahr. When I take it apart, I pop the pin, pull the trigger and pull the slide off, almost in one motion. Trying to do a retake is where some problems occur. A retake can require you reinsert the pin to recock the pistol.

In reassembly, I make sure the recoil rod and spring are aligned, parallel to the slide sides, reunite frame and slide and depress the ejector automatically as the slide nears the rear of the frame. I alway insert the pin as far as it will go, and only then retract the slide to align the slide for final placement of the slide release. This holds the barrel in place while the slide travels.

It's a learning curve thing. We all had to learn the idiosyncracies of our pistols. To me, the K9 is the hardest and most complicated and requires a little practice. All the other models seem to just pop together with little thought or effort.

[wyntrout]

It's scary how many people strip and clean their new guns and then have problems... or have a trouble-free first trip to the range and then have problems the NEXT trip to the range. Hmmmmm.... Maybe more preparation or reading and learning about the new pistol would help, especially if you're new to Kahr.
There could be some correlation....
Wynn:)