Starting A New 1911 Polishing Project

[BirdsThaWord]

It’s cold out and I can only sit next to the wife watching tv so much, so I thought it time to tackle another 1911 polishing project. I got a decent deal on this one back since it has plenty of handling marks and finish wear, it has always seemed to beg me to polish it. As I was taking it apart, bagging all of the little pieces, thinking of the countless hours I would be spending on each little piece, I said “What in the world are you getting yourself into?”, as I have told myself I’d never do it again. Well, I’m fully committed at this point. It will most likely take me a year or two, but I’ll post up progress pics as I go. I hope I live to complete it and hope my hands hold up to the abuse. At least I can now also get to the few little pieces I missed on my last project as I go along on this one, so I will have two completed BBQ/“show off” 1911’s by the time this one is done. Sooooo, here we go again!

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That’s enough for tonight. Eyelids are getting heavy. Front strap is finely checkered, which I have never polished before, so that should be interesting. That area will most likely eat through a lot of stuff as it is like a file itself. Will most likely end up being less of a bite to grip there as it all gets polished, but I’ll be ok with that, so long as it all looks uniform.

Interestingly, when I removed the grips, I noticed what looks like brass or copper inserts down in the screw holes. I also noticed quite a bit of weight to the grips. What I thought was G10 grips may just be aluminum. If so, I will also polish the grips. Should be able to blind astronauts up in the space station when done, if angled correctly! :cool:

[Bawanna]

Were I you I'd probably just wire wheel the front strap or since your such a patient and detail oriented guy, use a triangle file to clean up the front strap. A checkered front strap is a wonderful thing, be nice to keep it sharp and useful even on a BBQ gun.
They make checkering files for metal if you can figure out the line per inch.

[berettabone]

Cold out.................that's hilarious. :)

[BirdsThaWord]

Were I you I'd probably just wire wheel the front strap or since your such a patient and detail oriented guy, use a triangle file to clean up the front strap. A checkered front strap is a wonderful thing, be nice to keep it sharp and useful even on a BBQ gun.
They make checkering files for metal if you can figure out the line per inch.
Thank you! I did not think about a wire wheel. That should get the finish off quick enough so that the polishing part won’t take so long and eat up the dots. I looked up the specs and the checkering lists as 30 lpi. Very fine. I think so long as that area gets decently shiny it will look ok, even if not as shiny as the rest of the gun. I’ll take it as it comes and can always follow your advice about re-scoring it all with the appropriate checkering file if need be. Never done that, but have watched vids on it, so that would be an adventure!

[BirdsThaWord]

Cold out.................that's hilarious. :)
I knew you “up North” guys would giggle at that ;)

[rotorhead1026]

When I read the thread title I thought OP was making kielbasa.

[BirdsThaWord]

When I read the thread title I thought OP was making kielbasa.
:rolleyes: Dirty mind! :D

[jeepster09]

Cold out.................that's hilarious. :)

How about some ice cold OJ?

[DJK11]

What no 6” or 8” buffing wheel. And the different compounds. You must have Thor like hands. My arthritis is acting up reading your post. I would much rather be on the couch under a throw with the wife or GF drinking 12 year old Canadian whiskey watching IDPA video from last summer.

[BirdsThaWord]

Jeep - Now that’s cold! Florida used to be covered with orange groves when I was a kid. Spent many summers picking oranges along side the bussed in migrant workers picking them so we could buy some groceries and pay the rent. We had a few freezes in a few years that wiped out many of the orchards and Florida has never been the same. Still a bunch of groves here, but nothing like there was back then.

DJ - I will get to the wheels and compounds next. You are correct... it is murder on the hands. I think a younger person could get it all done in half the time. I have to do it a while and take breaks. Then the thought of pain makes me take longer breaks until I get back at it. I would love to have some of that whiskey too, but have to keep it to a rare occasion. Anymore it throws me into palpitations and such the next day, having to up the magnesium, potassium, B, D, mineral drops, etc just to feel ok. But when I do drink it MAN does it feel great!!! :D:D:D

[dao]

What no 6” or 8” buffing wheel. And the different compounds. You must have Thor like hands. My arthritis is acting up reading your post. I would much rather be on the couch under a throw with the wife or GF drinking 12 year old Canadian whiskey watching IDPA video from last summer.


Best not to drink so much that you forget which one you're cudding with :D

Bird I'm looking forward to watching your progress. Though I've never owned a high polish gun I'd like to one day. And I'm not too proud to live vicariously through others.

[BirdsThaWord]

Best not to drink so much that you forget which one you're cudding with :D

Bird I'm looking forward to watching your progress. Though I've never owned a high polish gun I'd like to one day. And I'm not too proud to live vicariously through others.
I missed the “wife or GF” part. Lol! Seeing that now, I think we can both live vicariously through DJK!!!

[BirdsThaWord]

One side of the frame is done with the #150 grit. Realized I need new stones as I wore grooves, etc in some of them last time. The slide stop/takedown pin hole and mag release holes protrude ever so slightly. Can’t have that, so I want to flatten those areas a wee li el bit. I will keep on sanding and using needle/French files until then.
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A grip bushing was a female dog to get out. Had to use vice grips. I will ream the threads after wire brushing them. Whatever they used (had a clearish/white stuff on threads), it sure held it in there well. After the Colonel’s belt sander discussion, I may get mine up and running sooner rather than later. Sure will help with the slide sides. Going to get a high, kinda high and medium grit belts seeing as how it will be my first time to that rodeo.

[BirdsThaWord]

Considering this, unless someone has a better suggestion. Has to be cheap because I’m a cheap bastard. Looking at other selections out there, this appears to be a good deal. I may still get some of the smaller diameter, rectangular stones as I don’t always want to hit such a broad area.

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[dao]

Damn the torpedos, full speed ahead! For that money I'm sure you'll get value from them.

[JohnR]

I can’t wait to see how shiny you get your kielbasa! Wait, that sounded dirty.

I’m a sucker for polished guns. I saw a polished stainless 1911 at the store once and just stared at it through the glass case for a while, heart palpitating.

[BirdsThaWord]

Damn the torpedos, full speed ahead! For that money I'm sure you'll get value from them.

Just ordered 'em!

[BirdsThaWord]

I can’t wait to see how shiny you get your kielbasa! Wait, that sounded dirty.

I’m a sucker for polished guns. I saw a polished stainless 1911 at the store once and just stared at it through the glass case for a while, heart palpitating. Lol! I've seen some real beauties too that had me drooling :cool:

[Bawanna]

I doubt the stones will help much but they have a hundred other useful purposes so your not out anything. And I could be wrong, maybe they'll work great. I was wrong once, I think it was 1962, maybe 63. Sad day that was.

Are you using a block to back up your sandpaper or just paper and fingers. I never sand without some sort of wood block. For stocks and grips I use a wood block with some thin felt wrapped around it. Had the same block for years.
The block of course helps keep the flats flat so there are no dips. Very important on the slide, relatively important on the frame too.
It's some times tough at the edges and uneven surfaces. I'm sure you know all this, the ones I've seen you do before looked perfect, no rounded corners etc.

Carry on.

[BirdsThaWord]

I doubt the stones will help much but they have a hundred other useful purposes so your not out anything. And I could be wrong, maybe they'll work great. I was wrong once, I think it was 1962, maybe 63. Sad day that was.

Are you using a block to back up your sandpaper or just paper and fingers. I never sand without some sort of wood block. For stocks and grips I use a wood block with some thin felt wrapped around it. Had the same block for years.
The block of course helps keep the flats flat so there are no dips. Very important on the slide, relatively important on the frame too.
It's some times tough at the edges and uneven surfaces. I'm sure you know all this, the ones I've seen you do before looked perfect, no rounded corners etc.

Carry on.
While I have used a block in the past, I don’t anymore. Where the trigger guard turns to the frame and a few other spots I use a small, rectangular piece of wood and wrap the paper around it so that I’m only hitting where I want and the wood is gliding against the other piece so as to not cut into it inadvertently. Kinda like some of those files that have smooth sides that the pro gunsmiths use. I am real careful and aware as I go to ensure even application/taking away metal. I’ve found those cautions to be way more important on an alloy frame, but on stainless it is kinda hard to mess up unless I really go wild. I have found that a few areas pretty much always need some bulges flattened out, which is at the end of the dust cover, the aforementioned slide stop pin hole, mag release hole areas of the frame, inside the trigger guard there are usually some metal irregularities/lines/“highs & lows” and under the dust cover, close to the trigger guard. The same can be said for the grip bushing holes, but I just polish ‘em up around there as I’m the only one who’d ever know. I still want it shiny under there though because I’m a bit OCD about it and figure that as far as I go with everything else it would be a shame not to do so. I have read about guys accidentally giving a “carry melt” to edges or having the dips/waviness you’ve mentioned, but I’ve been cautious and so far so good. Going by hand and fingers is slooooow, but I stay in total control. When I file or stone I am even more cautious as those things can cut some metal with a quickness. I’m going to be doing your belt sander method very carefully this time on the slide. If I mess up it’s all your fault! :p Sorry to write a book as a reply!

[BirdsThaWord]

Here are some of the areas to be smoothed and blended. I forgot to mention the underside of the trigger guard as well. I have already gotten the underside of the dust cover too shiny to show up in pics, but there are 2 distinct lines running in parallel, fore and aft that I will smooth/blend. Those areas are where the stones and files come into play. I roughly blend, then get at them with progressively lower grits, starting with the #150.
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[BirdsThaWord]

Got both the nick's and the "high's & low's" I showed earlier smoothed out inside the trigger guard. Rain & gloomy weather spoiled a family trip to St Augustine today, so thought I'd get after it a bit. Decent results with files and sandpaper. I usually have been putting in only 30 mins to an hour work nights, but todays weather allowed a bit more.

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Stones arrived. I have to say I'm impressed, given what I paid. Even came with the grooved, black stone for releveling the stones if they get dips in them. Instructions are very nice too.

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[BirdsThaWord]

Weekend is drawing down and back to work tomorrow. Got a lot done on it this weekend and am further ahead than I thought I would be. Maybe up to 10% of the way there. Colonel was right. The stones are too large and unwieldy to use on much. I am going to use them as shown in the bushing pic, which is to wet sand small, flat surfaces. Kinda thinking of sharpening a knife or two too.

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[dao]

It's looking like new again Bird!

[BirdsThaWord]

Thank you sir! I admit, it looks way better in that pic. Still a gazillion miles to go to get it smooth as glass, but it will one day!

[getsome]

So Shiny! Looking good there Bird, keep at it and in case something happens and you ever need a part time job you could always be a hit man or rob banks because you can’t have any finger prints left…..:tongue:

[dao]

Ooops, replied in the wrong thread.

Are you going to do it in a mirror finish Bird?

[BirdsThaWord]

So Shiny! Looking good there Bird, keep at it and in case something happens and you ever need a part time job you could always be a hit man or rob banks because you can’t have any finger prints left…..:tongue:
So true! My fingertips are rather smooth! :D

[BirdsThaWord]

Ooops, replied in the wrong thread.

Are you going to do it in a mirror finish Bird?
Yes sir! Got a long ways to go though. I’m attacking it with vigor, but sometimes when doing them I get off track for a while, then come back to it. so, gonna take a while to get it to that level. Not sure if you saw some I had done in the past, so I will post a few pics below:

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[dao]

Phenomenal Bird.

Once they get to that point, do they pick up scratches and such easily?

[BirdsThaWord]

Phenomenal Bird.

Once they get to that point, do they pick up scratches and such easily?
Thanks for the kind words!
Alloy frames do scratch easier than stainless. I would not carry one I’ve done this to, although I did carry the Sig like that for a while. Just being the slide, it was easy to pop off and freshen up though.

[dao]

How about that K9 Bird, did it scratch easily after you spent so much time polishing it out?

[BirdsThaWord]

How about that K9 Bird, did it scratch easily after you spent so much time polishing it out?

It did not, but then again, I did not carry it or holster it, but only shot it at the range. I went through a wheel gun phase, so I traded it out for a S& 686 plus.

[dao]

I've noticed the same thing about the two Kahrs PM's that I have polished, albeit not nearly to the level of shine that you achieved, they don't seem to scratch easily. Neither does my Elite.

[Bawanna]

I started to polish my PM45. It seemed incredibly hard. The barrel and barrel hood polish easy and fast but that slide is tough. I got it to shine some but no where near the level of the Bird. I wasn't planning to go quite that far although I'd love to do that.
I think that kahr metal is tough.

[BirdsThaWord]

I've noticed the same thing about the two Kahrs PM's that I have polished, albeit not nearly to the level of shine that you achieved, they don't seem to scratch easily. Neither does my Elite.
Yes, like the Colonel said below your post that stainless is pretty darn tough. Those Elite’s see like they wouldn't take too much to get to a mirror from what I’ve seen in pics. I don’t think I’ve never seen one in person, but they look pretty darn smooth!

[BirdsThaWord]

I think that kahr metal is tough.
I would have to agree with you

[dao]

The Elites are smooth. I haven't done anything to mine because I don't carry it and it has stayed pretty much pristine.

Colonel all I've used on my two PMs is Mother's. Neither seemed very tough to get past the matte finish. I think I spent about an hour on each, all by hand, and that included the barrels if memory serves. Like you say though it's nowhere near what Bird does.

[BirdsThaWord]

Just ordered these “American Ivory” grips from Boone Trading for the STI. Should look right at home next to the Springer once done! I read some guys saying that the more they age, the more they look like real ivory. I may just try a little (very light) coffee rub?
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[dao]

I like them! Ivory just looks right and best on some guns.

[BirdsThaWord]

I like them! Ivory just looks right and best on some guns.
Thanks man! I’ve been looking at grips for the last few days, going this way and that, from mild to wild, but kept coming back to ivory. Figured it looked so good on the Springer, why fool with a good thing? Plus, the billboard slide and the serrations are already “busy”, so I thought a toned down grip may be just the thing. : )

[Bawanna]

Depending on whatever they are made of I have some stuff, can't remember what it's called but it age. It works great on Antler and most bone. Some plastics it's worked on, others it didn't do anything.

From the picture I'm not confident it would work but might be worth a shot.
I'll have to look for what it's called in the AM. It's a powder, mix with water and put it on with a rag.

[BirdsThaWord]

Depending on whatever they are made of I have some stuff, can't remember what it's called but it age. It works great on Antler and most bone. Some plastics it's worked on, others it didn't do anything.

From the picture I'm not confident it would work but might be worth a shot.
I'll have to look for what it's called in the AM. It's a powder, mix with water and put it on with a rag.
Thanks for that info! I watched a video last night and the guy was using an alcohol based leather dye. Ever try that? I will follow your lead though, because I don’t know that guy and I know you know grips, ya know!

[JohnR]

It did not, but then again, I did not carry it or holster it, but only shot it at the range. I went through a wheel gun phase, so I traded it out for a S& 686 plus.
No!!! I had a 686 Plus I would have traded for it! Sold it since I seemed to have too many un-played-with toys. Still do.

[BirdsThaWord]

No!!! I had a 686 Plus I would have traded for it! Sold it since I seemed to have too many un-played-with toys. Still do.
Sorry man! I would have certainly traded you. Now, the wheel gun phase is over though, and only have a few snubs, but wish I still had the K9!

[JohnR]

May my wheel gun phase never end. I like 'em both, semmies and wheelies.

[dao]

Back in the mid eighties I had a chance to buy a shiny stainless Dan Wesson revolver that came with both a short and a long barrel. It was in .357. I don't remember the model or the lengths of the barrels but it was new, from a friend who'd fallen on some hard times. I opted not to do so because I told him things were going to get better real soon for him, and they did. Offered to loan him the money instead if memory serves, but he declined. He wanted just $200 for the whole kit and kaboodle. I've kicked myself many times for not buying it, but then I remind myself that he must have really wanted to keep it because when things turned around for him he no longer wanted to sell it. I can only imagine what it would go for now.

[Bawanna]

One of my biggest regrets was selling my Dan Wesson Pistol Pack. Came in a brief case with 4 barrels, two grips, a buckle and a patch. It was sweet. Now of course they are worth 5 times what I sold (actually traded) it for. Don't recall exactly what I traded it for but I must have wanted it badly. It was a good shooter.

[BirdsThaWord]

I think all of us guns guys have some regrets like that. Something shiny or different catches our eye and we start to consider letting go of something that is special, but since we’ve owned it a bit, it has lost some of it’s specialness. Until later on. Dang human nature stuff!
DAO, you did that guy a favor by not doing the favor he wanted. Good on you!

[dao]

Thanks Bird. Sadly I've lost touch with him. He was a good friend for quite awhile but after he got hurt at work and had to change professions we lost touch. I have several regrets of that type, people who I wish were still in my life but aren't.

[Bawanna]

Hey you still got me, hold your chin up.........wife says I only have friends cause they never met me in person. Could maybe be some truth in that I guess.

I still ponder all the times I've gone to funerals, a lot of police officers etc. They always say they were the nicest, bestest goodest people every born and gone too soon.......I figure I'll be an arse hole and live forever.

[dao]

Hey you still got me, hold your chin up.........wife says I only have friends cause they never met me in person. Could maybe be some truth in that I guess.

I still ponder all the times I've gone to funerals, a lot of police officers etc. They always say they were the nicest, bestest goodest people every born and gone too soon.......I figure I'll be an arse hole and live forever.

I'll drink to that! And try to emulate it too :D

[BirdsThaWord]

I have wondered about some of our online friends... would I be able to spend a day on a fishing boat with them? Guy I once worked for told me that was a thought he had when interviewing people. He said if he felt that he wouldn’t want to spend a day on a fishing boat with someone, after spending a few mins in an interview, then he would not hire them. Kind of a good way of looking at things I guess.

[BirdsThaWord]

Some progress: Pushed out the front sight. Pushed edge is boogered, so I will be filing/sanding that before polishing. Took pics of the little alcove above the recoil spring box. This is an area I feel would be easy to get rounded edges/carry melt if too much polishing wheel/Dremel polishing are done, so I spent an hour and a half on one side. The red circle shows where there was a little divot. I filed it first. Then #250, #500, #1200 grit sandpaper. I wrap sandpaper around a pencil to get up into the little alcove area. Started working on the serrations too. Difficult to get in there with sandpaper and as they get shiny the eyes lose track of the little angles.
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[JohnR]

That’s startin’ to give me a bulge :)

[BirdsThaWord]

That’s startin’ to give me a bulge :)
Lol! Me too man. I’ve got to keep myself interested, so getting a bit smoothed out like that keeps it exciting. Posting up here and you guys feedback helps too. I think it’s kind of like joining a weight loss forum when wanting to slim down. People say the accolades others give keeps them motivated and on track. Gotta do Sunday errands with the wife, but hope to spend some more time on it tonight.

[BirdsThaWord]

Grips came in. A bit shiny, but they do have a nice, faux ivory like grain to them. I doubt anything would penetrate the gloss. I will finish the polishing and then think on it a bit. I may give them a light sanding to remove the gloss. Or maybe not. Happy Valentine's Day everyone!
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[dao]

I wonder if they could be checkered. Your blaster is looking great Bird. I really like those cocking serrations too!

[BirdsThaWord]

I wonder if they could be checkered. Your blaster is looking great Bird. I really like those cocking serrations too!
I bet they could be checkered. Probably a cnc guy or one of those crazy grip guys like has a grip emporium on here ;)
Thanks for the positive feedback! I’m moving along a little faster on this one than the last one.

[Bawanna]

I think I have a set similar to that. I'll try scratching on them a bit and see how it goes.

[JohnR]

The shininess actually increases friction against the skin. I'd leave it. People get scared of shiny smooth floor tiles, but it's the sand texture that you slip on.

[BirdsThaWord]

The shininess actually increases friction against the skin. I'd leave it. People get scared of shiny smooth floor tiles, but it's the sand texture that you slip on.
I do know what you are saying, and agree, but for me at least it is a matter of appearance. I want to slightly age the grips if possible to do so without ruining them. The real ivory grips on my Springer have some age to them and I like the “character” of them. Once I finish the polishing, I may change my mind on this, so aging them is just a thought at this point.

[JohnR]

I understand that! It's gotta look cool!

[berettabone]

Looks good to me right now, so it should be looking really good in the future. I always kind of liked the lighter color grips with stainless myself. It helps the stainless pop. I'm not really a 1911 guy, so when I say it looks good, it must. :) Those slide cuts are especially nice.

[BirdsThaWord]

I understand that! It's gotta look cool!
You know it man! ;)

[BirdsThaWord]

Looks good to me right now, so it should be looking really good in the future. I always kind of liked the lighter color grips with stainless myself. It helps the stainless pop. I'm not really a 1911 guy, so when I say it looks good, it must. :) Those slide cuts are especially nice.
Thanks Beretta! Those cuts are my favorite part on it.

[BirdsThaWord]

Slight progress... One side of the slide is up to the #1200 grit, so I spent a few mins at the polishing wheel with the black rouge. Needs more still. I may wait until the whole slide is done to post the next shots. Hope to spend some time on it this coming weekend.
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[dao]

That's gonna be a fine looking gun Bird. You seem motivated to get it done sooner rather than later this time out.

[BirdsThaWord]

That's gonna be a fine looking gun Bird. You seem motivated to get it done sooner rather than later this time out.
Thank you! Yes, I am ;)

[BirdsThaWord]

Got distracted by the P239 today and started in on it. Finish came off easy enough, but the metal under it is ROUGH. Has all kinds of waves, almost like Damascus and looks like they media blasted it before coating. This is about 5 hours in, including the strip down.. I spent more time near the rear sight, so you can see that spot is coming along, and in front of that you can still see the waves I'm talking about. Sorry, I know this is the 1911 section, but it's related to the thread. It's now beer:30, so quittin time!
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[dao]

Can you ever completely remove Nitron Bird? Or will the slide always have a black undertone regardless of how much you smooth it out or shine it up?

[BirdsThaWord]

Can you ever completely remove Nitron Bird? Or will the slide always have a black undertone regardless of how much you smooth it out or shine it up?
Yes, you can remove any of the finishes they put on guns. Some easier than others. Some finishes simply lay on the surface and some bond on a molecular level with the part. Anodizing, for example is bonded on a molecular level, but can be stripped using acid. But it and other finishes can also be removed with abrasives. Just depends on what the finish is, which will determine how much you have to take off and what you can or must use to take it off.
After that, if you wanted to cerakote something, you could blast the part with abrasives and coat as is, but if not putting on a coating so thick, fine abrasives are best. For example, if I were ever to have something re-blued, I’d polish it to a mirror finish first. Colt did some of theirs that way, and (maybe you already know this) the blueing looked amazing and was named “Royal Blue”. If doing something like cold case hardening, you could get away with a little less of a polish as the finish is very camouflaging if you would. What I mean is that the end product or finish needs to be taken into consideration when deciding how you’ll remove the existing finish. Cheers man!

[BirdsThaWord]

Some close ups, showing how rough the metal is. Couldn't sleep last night, so worked with 500 grit. Last pic is about a 2" section of the slide after working it with 500 for an hour.18694
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[BirdsThaWord]

Some progress to show. Had a few days off and put some hours into the 229 slide. Not done, but getting there. The bbq style grips I ordered came in, but with the wrong screws, which were supposed to be nickel, but came in black. The 226 needed new screws anyway, so that's not so bad. I've ordered a "sport" aluminum mag plate and will polish it before I put it on. I will polish the trigger and hammer too. Basically any controls that are stainless or aluminum will get polished. I've learned how to nickel plate, so carbon steel parts will get nickeled by me. I decided the frame was in too good a shape to warrant polishing, and more work than I wanted, so it will stay as is, hence the black chrome grips. Should be a bit crazy and a bit cool when done. :D
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[dao]

Wow!!!!!

[yqtszhj]

That last picture is beautiful. That’s one of the coolest looking grip/slide combos with the gold Sig logo I’ve seen in a long time. Kinda reminds me of Mexican/pimpish look but I mean that in the highest regard and I’d carry it because I like that kind of thing. Man, did I say yet I love that grip/slide combo yet?

[Bawanna]

Definitely full blown BBQ gun. Very very nice. I totally agree with yqtszhj. I'm not an open carry guy (I support it, just wouldn't do it myself) but I'd be tempted with that one.

[BirdsThaWord]

Oh, thanks so much guys. Blushing over here. Glad someone shares my flair for the pimp style/bbq style stuff. Can’t wait to finish it and see it all come together. I look forward to sharing the pics once done.

[topgun1953]

Holy Cow!! You must have done a LOT of polishing! It looks great.

[BirdsThaWord]

Holy Cow!! You must have done a LOT of polishing! It looks great.
Thanks! More sanding than polishing. I find I don’t round the sharp edges if I spend more time on careful sanding before moving on to the polishing. Thanks again!

[dustnchips]

Bird, have you ever tried starting with a file on the flats? It still keeps things sharp and would probably be easier.

[BirdsThaWord]

I have filed a few areas, but no, I have not done full flats with one. At least the files I have, cut deep and quick. I think that if I got some of the high end one’s like I’ve seen in some in some of the Wilson Combat vids I’ve watched that would prolly be more suited. I’ve also considered my table top belt sander as Bawanna has used one of those in the past. I just have to get it up and running, and get the right project for it. I’ve been learning about anodizing, plating and case hardening recently, so thought I might find a cheap 1911 (Rock Island, Iver Johnson, etc) with a billboard that needs removing and give something like that a go.

[BirdsThaWord]

Small amount of progress... got the hammer 80% done. Believe it or not, I have over 7 hours into the hammer so far. The casting lines took a gazillion strokes to dissapear. After and hour or so, I said f it to the lower surface that is below and in front of the hammer face as I would be the only to ever see it, so I'm letting it ride as is. I am not messing with any of the sear interface areas. Some before and after pics...

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[dao]

You do turn them into purdy things there Bird. Can't wait to see the finished project, even though it's gonna make me want one.

[BirdsThaWord]

Thanks DAO. Gotta take a few days off this stuff. Hands are too raw and sore. You never know, you may just catch the itch and end up tackling one yourself one day!

[dao]

More likely I'll buy one Bird. I just don't have the patience to do what you do. And probably not the gumption either.

[BirdsThaWord]

More likely I'll buy one Bird. I just don't have the patience to do what you do. And probably not the gumption either.
Lol! I really don’t blame you. With the hours I put into them, if I actually got paid, I could buy something real nice that somebody else put their sweat into and save my hands.

[BirdsThaWord]

Thought it best/appropriate to move the polishing updates here instead of the “Happiness Is A New Gun Thread”…

Showing here why this stuff takes so long. Dealing with chrome plating on the beaver tail. In the 1st pic you can see (after hours of work already) where the tough as nails chrome is giving me a hard time. The second pic is the same area after sanding that area for 20 MINUTES! This is at a rather easy to get to spot. Imaging what it is like getting up into the intricate curved areas inside the beaver where the web of your hand rests (3rd pic of me working in that area). Luckily, the web area was rough to start. The previous owner(s) were a little hard on the beaver (I see what you did there. : ) ), so it was a blessing that some of the chrome was already gone there (4th pic). Saves me a bit ‘o time there!
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[BirdsThaWord]

Another VERY time consuming part is when you are working on an alloy frame with anodizing under the top coat. Removing burs, scratches, highs/lows, machine marks/chatter, casting marks… EASY compared to getting all of the anodizing off. Next time I do an anodized frame, I’ll attempt the Draino method.

I zoom in on pics I see of “mirror polished” guns and see that many give up in these areas. I totally understand why. They are a royal pain. With many parts being cast, the highs and lows often make it VERY difficult to get to some areas. You have to flatten out the metal around these areas a hair to get down to where the anodizing is being stubborn. Sometimes then having to blend that whole area so as to be even (no dips/concaves/carry melts). Patriot Polishing is just about the only guys I see who post pics of them done right. I’ve seen TJ Custom’s “mirror polished” guns, zoomed in and found they skip a lot. Attached is a prime example. This is one currently listed on GB. Thousands of dollars he is asking. I’d be upset if I bought it. I circled in red all of the stuff I caught. Again, as this is exactly the same model gun I’m currently working on, I totally understand (but do not agree) why these areas are left out. They are the most difficult to get to and add HOURS AND HOURS to getting one done to the highest level. All of this explains why I might have 6, 7 or even 10 hours into one tiny part of the gun.
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[BirdsThaWord]

I know for sure that these areas are not just reflections. That anodizing has a tan/brownish/golden look to it and these are the very same areas I have been laboring at the most.
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[BirdsThaWord]

Some progress pics. None of these parts are done done, but getting closer! ;) Often times I will go to the buffing wheel and it will reveal that there are still some faint scratches or what I call grains in the surface (some in these pics), so it’s back I go for for more rounds with the sandpaper. Both the msh and hammer ribs have tiny burs in some of the valleys. I will be removing those in time as well.
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[dao]

Ooooooo. Mighty fine work Bird. Got any fingerprints left?

[BirdsThaWord]

If I was ever gonna rob a bank, now would be the time! 😂

[dao]

Mail me that masterpiece before you head out, will ya?

[BirdsThaWord]

Mail me that masterpiece before you head out, will ya?
Come help me. We can then buy many masterpiece’s! :p

[dao]

Kind of think they wouldn't let us shine them up in prison. Assuming they even put us in the same cell :D

[BirdsThaWord]

Kind of think they wouldn't let us shine them up in prison. Assuming they even put us in the same cell :D
We can do the guards guns. Maybe in trade for some extra geedunk (Navy slang for snacks).

[Bawanna]

Or pogie bait?

[kenemoore]

So...all the shiny stuff looks purdy. But why bother? Most of my pistols are for carry, and don't want anything shiny. I do have a nickel plated 1911, which is very pretty. So two questions, is nickel plating still a thing? If it is, would it not be easier/cheaper than all that polishing. To me time does equal money. Or... is it just a passion and you do it for fun/relaxation/etc.

[BirdsThaWord]

Or pogie bait?
Never heard that one. Had to look it up. Maybe it’s an age thing? :boink:

[BirdsThaWord]

So...all the shiny stuff looks purdy. But why bother? Most of my pistols are for carry, and don't want anything shiny. I do have a nickel plated 1911, which is very pretty. So two questions, is nickel plating still a thing? If it is, would it not be easier/cheaper than all that polishing. To me time does equal money. Or... is it just a passion and you do it for fun/relaxation/etc.
It is a passion thing, for fun, relaxation and to admire. Maybe equals money one day. You are correct though. I would not do this to a gun I intended to carry or take to the range often. I liken these to a guy that builds a hot rod with a super mega blown race type engine, only to trailer it to shows, or putter around at a local cruise in. He’ll never run it down the quarter, but could if he wanted to. To each his own on stuff like this.
Yes, nickel is till a thing. Some of the controls on two of my projects are carbon steel, so when I get back onto those projects I will be doing my first nickel plating work. BUT, if you are going to nickel anything, you better get it ultra smooth and shiny 1st. The nickel will show every imperfection or scratch that you did not remove. It is not thick, like cerakote or some of the coating manufactures put on to hide what’s underneath.
Attached are pics of my 92s, another project I am into. Looks great in the first pic. The slide is carbon. Previous owner nickeled it. They sanded it well, and luckily all in one direction. So it looks more like a shiny "brushed" finish. Since the frame is alloy, they semi polished it.
Some have nickel work, re polishing the frame, along with a polished compensator, polished mag plate and polished lanyard delete go on this one.
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[Bawanna]

Nickel plating is just a finish, like Bird says, it will show imperfections. His efforts are removing all those imperfections so they will be perfect.
I have a High Standard Model B which was given to me about 15 years ago. I wrote it off as junk. Yesterday tinkering around with freezing weather outside I discovered that rather than being rusty and ugly it's actually all there and functions. So I started my own project. Needless to say it ain't getting the Bird polish. If lucky it'll get most of the rust off and a cold bluing job. I need to whittle some grips. I have another given to me with a beautiful new blue job but they apparently messed up putting it together. Had it probably 10 years or longer and could never get it apart. I finally got the slide off last week after many many attempts. It's missing parts and I'm clueless about how to put it together but I'll tinker till I figure it out or find somebody that knows.

[BirdsThaWord]

That looks like a fun one. Once I get current one’s done, I may try a rusty one. Was a rusty Colt snubby for sale around here last week for cheap, but I am over extended says the wife. I want to polish one and nickel it. Can’t wait to see what you do between the restoration and the custom grips!

[BirdsThaWord]

Grips just got delivered. Should make for a purty gun once everything is polished 😉Look better in person. Makes the gun look boring and dull, for now at least.
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[Bawanna]

Well I spent most of the day yesterday and the morning today using everything I could think of to clean up the rust. Some pretty bad pits, surprised the barrel is very clean and not rusty at all. Emery cloth, some filing, tons of sandpaper, a cratex wheel. I finally figured enough was enough. Don't have the Bird patience I guess.
So I cleaned and degreased and broke out the cold blue. I throw several at it. The Oxpho does a nice deep blue right off but it stays kind of dull and flat, so after a couple rounds of that I go to the Birchwood cream in the tube, this adds a bit more dark and has more of a shine. I thin went with the Birchwood liquid, it dries rapidly and coats the whole thing with grayish white oxidation, didn't help a bit this trip. So I reversed and went a couple more coats of the Birchwood in the cream. Anyhow, it's no where near perfect but no rust and basically uniform in color. I didn't even completely disassemble the whole thing, kind of a quick work around as I'm not totally familiar with the working on these things.

Any how here's what I ended up with. Grips might have to wait till things warm up a bunch. When it's this cold the pellet stove in the shop don't quite make it for my old bones.

[BirdsThaWord]

Wow man! You turned it into that in one day?!?! The barrel looks awesome/smooth/all even colored. Once I get there (a bluing project) I'm going to get with you and ask some questions.

[dao]

You guys do good work. I've been considering buying a black oxiding kit by Caswell. The kind that will blacken stainless steel. Haven't done it yet though.

[BirdsThaWord]

I’ve looked at that company in the past. I think for anodizing dye’s. Maybe, maybe not, but the name sounds familiar. Do they sell cog’s too? Are they located next to Spacely’s Sprockets?

[Bawanna]

I found a mismatched set of handles that fit this, plus a set of slabs I started long long ago (this is good so I don't have to freeze going to the shop. I can whittle in my warm room.
Anyhow I hung them all excited and went and shot it out the back door a few times. Feeds and functions perfect. Check me off as a happy camper. Another bang toy in the stable that didn't cost money or a beat down from the missus. She did make me put the mini Schnauzer in her cage so she didn't catch a stray 22 round. Pretty thoughtful of her I reckon.

[BirdsThaWord]

Well that worked out great and looks like the grips belong there.

[Bawanna]

The set I'm making won't have the thumb rest. I like them but some of my family is cursed with left handedness so it don't work for them. Some I have both so I can switch out when they want to shoot.

[dao]

I’ve looked at that company in the past. I think for anodizing dye’s. Maybe, maybe not, but the name sounds familiar. Do they sell cog’s too? Are they located next to Spacely’s Sprockets?

Jetson's?

They make all sorts of chemical metal finishing/alteration concoctions.

[kenemoore]

So as stated before, I have one 1911 that's Nickel plated, and a 2" Model 10-6 S&W revolver that's nickel plated. I was under the impression that mfg's used a layer of copper between the steel and the plating. Both of mine are as smooth as a silk. I have always assumed the copper was extra smooth. I couldn't see the factory spending a lot of time polishing production pieces.

[BirdsThaWord]

So as stated before, I have one 1911 that's Nickel plated, and a 2" Model 10-6 S&W revolver that's nickel plated. I was under the impression that mfg's used a layer of copper between the steel and the plating. Both of mine are as smooth as a silk. I have always assumed the copper was extra smooth. I couldn't see the factory spending a lot of time polishing production pieces.
Yes on the copper. But also yes on the polishing. The copper would not get rid of or hide the stuff I find on EVERY gun I strip the finish off of. I promise you, if you have a nickeled gun, some level of polishing was done prior to the plating. You would not be saying smooth as silk if not.

[BirdsThaWord]

Small update: I intend to replace the trigger eventually (no hole trigger, just haven’t decided on flat faced or curved face yet), but for now will run what I brung. Besides the obvious of wanting the shoe to be bling bling, the bow is one of the few things I’ll do internally to either improve performance, smooth out function, or as in this case lighten the trigger pull. That little nick in the rear does not interface with the disco, but it would have bothered me. Also, the wear in the rear caught my eye. If you look closely, it looked like a full on crown shape https://www.kahrtalk.com/image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7. Did this gun belong to royalty once? https://www.kahrtalk.com/image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7 I will also polish the disco face at some point, as well as the grooves where that bow rides inside the frame. Can not find my rectangular stones that fit in those grooves, so may need to either source new one’s, or improvise. If improvising, I’ll get a small piece of rectangular wood, run it back and forth in there, wrapped with high grain sandpaper. I’d follow it up by running said wood back and forth with a bunch of polishing compound up in there.
Note: I will do what’s shown to a trigger, I’ll shape and polish an extractor, breech face, hammer to slide interface (bottom of firing pin stop) and lightly polish rails BUT… I do not mess with sear and hammer hook interfaces. I do not have a jig. Maybe one day, but just not that important as what I already do works well, does reduce trigger pull, does increase reliability.


Here’s before & afters. Only a little over an hour to do this. No buffing wheel yet, just dining room table work.
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[Bawanna]

Since I kind of horned in on this thread which I hope continues I'll bow out with a final picture of the High Standard revival. Kind of nice to take off the shelf as a rusty unsightly wreck and while not a beauty queen or anywhere near a pro revitalization it can at least sit on the shelf with shooters.
I found I had these grips cut out (years ago) just flat. So today I located the mounting holes, (never seen such tiny mounting screws before, tiny). And spent the day shaping and filing and making sawdust which of course makes me happy.
It's some flavor of stabilized wood, box elder maybe, don't recall.

[BirdsThaWord]

I would not bow out. What you are showing and discussing goes right along with it (restoration).
Man I like that stabilized wood. Exotic looking. Gonna put oil or a shine on them. I think you’ve scored on this project. Between it functioning, your ability to restore it, already having those grips… all from stuff you already have. I might need to check yer seat cushions. Prolly some priceless silver or gold coins you dun and forgot about.

[BirdsThaWord]

I couldn’t help myself. Stuck most of it together for a few shots to keep me motivated ;) (virtually everything still needs a lil more sanding and a little more polishing)
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[Bawanna]

I don't know pal, looks pretty ready to go to me. Damn shiny beauty she is.

[Bawanna]

I would not bow out. What you are showing and discussing goes right along with it (restoration).
Man I like that stabilized wood. Exotic looking. Gonna put oil or a shine on them. I think you’ve scored on this project. Between it functioning, your ability to restore it, already having those grips… all from stuff you already have. I might need to check yer seat cushions. Prolly some priceless silver or gold coins you dun and forgot about.

Stabilized wood won't take oil. Usually one just polishes it and it shines up. I did a little bit on this with just a dremel, the bench polisher does a better job. I did think about putting some Varathane on it to see if it really shines but haven't decided yet.
You can take a piece of stabilized wood and stick it in a glass of water and it will soak up the water, but take it out and overnight all the water will come back out of it. It's basically impervious.

[BirdsThaWord]

Interesting. Yeah, I shoulda thought about the oil comment. I know you can get oil to penetrate resins or polymers. I sell windows and doors. The doors have a lot of fiberglass (resins) and other polymers, so I advise my customers to avoid traditional stains and to buy gel stains.

[BirdsThaWord]

I don't know pal, looks pretty ready to go to me. Damn shiny beauty she is.
Thanks a bunch! I do want it to be as perfect as I can get it though after spending so much time already. What’s another 20 or so hours? Lol! Dang chrome on the beaver tail is giving me a really tough time. :yell:

[BirdsThaWord]

Finally got the beaver licked today. It was so tough getting past the chrome, but I persevered. Before and after shots:
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[BirdsThaWord]

face of hammer had a ton of lines in it (no before pic). It said it wanted to get stoned, so I obliged. Inside the ring was super rough too ("during" shots), so smoothed in there too.
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[Bawanna]

Wow, inside that hammer really was rough. Never really looked that close at mine but I intend to forthwith, not that I'd probably bother to fix it. Might be best not to look, it would bug me if it's anything like that one.

[BirdsThaWord]

It was like that on both ends of the inside. That pic was after I had already worked it a bit too. Lot’s of places I’ve found rough stuff. Wish I had taken more “before” shots of those areas to show.
Some of the one’s I’ve worked on amazed me once the outer finish was stripped off. The manufacture’s sure know what they are doing and how to cut labor costs by using coatings that really fill in and cover areas that would otherwise take a lot of labor to look good.

[BirdsThaWord]

Hammer time! One more peice down. Put it in a tiny zip lock and into the shoebox with the other completed peices. 😁 Getting closer! Nothing fits inside that ring to power polish, so eventually I’ll use some polishing paste. For now, it’s just sitting at 1200 grit sanded in there.
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[berettabone]

Finally got the beaver licked today. It was so tough getting past the chrome, but I persevered. Before and after shots:
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20592 The wife must have been happy.................:p

[dao]

Amazing Bird. Simply amazing. Do you find yourself polishing in your sleep?

Could you use a dremel with a wool tip inside the hammer ring?

[BirdsThaWord]

Smiles for miles! :p

[BirdsThaWord]

Amazing Bird. Simply amazing. Do you find yourself polishing in your sleep?

Could you use a dremel with a wool tip inside the hammer ring?
Thank you sir! Lol, I might just be polishing in my sleep, but it’s usually just the beaver I’m working on ;););)
The dremel cone tips are too big. I just ordered this kit. I’m thinking the cylinder shaped one’s may fit in there. I shoulda measured first, but can certainly use them in trigger guard, around ejection ports, safety lever backside, etc. Looking forward to adding to my tool bag!
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[BirdsThaWord]

Getting into the ports in the slide now. After removing the black coating... very rough in there. This should be fun! 😬
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[BirdsThaWord]

After sanding a bit... going to need a bit of needle filing now. Looks like the inside of how that hammer ring did.
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[BirdsThaWord]

I gave my hands a break yesterday. Today I tackled those slide ports. Smoothed out nice after about 4 hours (off and on) of additional work. I wish I had known I was going to do these ports prior to the outside of the slide (DOH!) as I accumilated a few fine scratches on the slide that will need to be removed. Not a big deal, but a small step backwards.
I also went ahead and smoothed the breech face a bit. While in there, I also broke the stripping block face and shinied it up too. Between that, the bottom of the firing pin stop being polished and a mild polish on the rails (not done that yet) she should rack like greased glass! 😁
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[BirdsThaWord]

Done with the V10! I finished all of the polishing yesterday, got everything cleaned up and assembled. I disovered the the bushings must have already been "oversized" due to a past stripping of threads (threads are good now), so I had to order some of those. I have tons of various bushings, but none oversized.
I zoomed in on some of these pics and realized I missed a few wiping compound off in a few spots AND a few areas are not quite done (rear sight, hammer serrations), so I'll address those sometime in the future (maybe, maybe not).
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[BirdsThaWord]

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[Bawanna]

You need a nice glass display case to hang these beauties in. With light so you can admire them whenever you walk by. I already have a glass display case.........just sayin.

Whole lot of work in that V10 alone. Well done.

[berettabone]

Nice job...........I'd have to keep that one.

[BirdsThaWord]

You need a nice glass display case to hang these beauties in. With light so you can admire them whenever you walk by. I already have a glass display case.........just sayin.

Whole lot of work in that V10 alone. Well done.

Thanks Colonel!
Lol! Maybe a fun way to display them.Was looking at a polished gun the other day and it was on a little glass/mirror display that spun slowly. Gotta find a jewelry store going outta business. Lol! But, that would take away from $ to buy new one's and parts, so gotta get me one of those real good scratch off tickets first.

[BirdsThaWord]

Nice job...........I'd have to keep that one.
Thank you sir!

[dao]

Stunning Bird! I could never do that what with my lack of patience, and skill. I agree with the Colonel, you should figure out a way to display it, even if it's only in your bedroom, office, or some other private place in your house.

[BirdsThaWord]

Stunning Bird! I could never do that what with my lack of patience, and skill. I agree with the Colonel, you should figure out a way to display it, even if it's only in your bedroom, office, or some other private place in your house.
Thanks dao! Maybe once I’m done with the Colt and the STI. I’ll have 4 polished ones to display (nice, even # Lol!)
BTW, picked up the RIA officer today. What a lil chunker! After handling these LW framed 45’s it seems like it weighs a ton. ;) Can’t wait to do a few things to it.

[BirdsThaWord]

Made a little progress on the Colt today...
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[BirdsThaWord]

Just ordered this sanding block based on the recommendation of a 1911 customizer/builder/restorer. Looking forward to not having to hold onto loosely wrapped sandpaper on a sharpening stone. Looks like a quality piece. A lot more than I would normally pay for something such as a sanding block, but given who made the recommendation, I’m running with it. I wanted to buy a new msh for the RIA project this week, but this bumped that :eek: One thing I can promise is that this thing will get a ton of mileage. Somebody will prob buy this at a yard sale one day after my death and have no clue how many times I ran this thing back & forth across a guns slide, grip, etc.
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[Bawanna]

Looks like it has like a rubber pad beneath the sand paper. I use a wood block with felt wrap under the paper. Course I'm only doing wood. The pad might round off things you don't want rounded off, course then you just call it a melt job and all is well.
Is a might pricey but gosh durned if I don't want to keep up with the Bird and get me one too. Maybe some day.

[BirdsThaWord]

He talks about the rubber piece in the description. Guy puts out really nice guns. I wish I had this all along.
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[Bawanna]

I found them and read all that. I thought using 9x11 sandpaper cut length wise was brilliant and using the left over for smaller applications. And it works well with or without the rubber.
I shopped around all over the internet and nobody gives them away. But I don't think for my applications it would be the ticket. But for yours I think it's a must have and you can share that with the wife if you think it will help.
Now if I fall under your wing and decide to shiny up some stuff, you can give that back and tell my wife it's ok, maybe along with the 22 pump action rifle that I want?

[BirdsThaWord]

I found them and read all that. I thought using 9x11 sandpaper cut length wise was brilliant and using the left over for smaller applications. And it works well with or without the rubber.
I shopped around all over the internet and nobody gives them away. But I don't think for my applications it would be the ticket. But for yours I think it's a must have and you can share that with the wife if you think it will help.
Now if I fall under your wing and decide to shiny up some stuff, you can give that back and tell my wife it's ok, maybe along with the 22 pump action rifle that I want?
Funny you read it just like me. I’m frugal with my sandpaper, pointed that out to the wife and she liked it. In fact, instead of me using my weekly allowance, she said “don’t worry, we’ll cover it”. (meaning I get to keep my allowance, YAAAAY!)
I will ad your .02 to the wife (she might say “you already sold me” as I’m in sales and she says I’m always “selling her on what I want”). Let me know when you are about to get that pump .22. I’ll call yer wife and tell her all the reasons why it’s time tested and technologically proven to save money! : )

[dao]

Bird! That Colt! Wow! You are the King of Shiny!

Funny that you bought that sanding block from Harrisons. I just received two black triggers from them today and installed one of them in my ECO.

[BirdsThaWord]

Thanks dao!
Small world! I had not heard of 'em until that builder referenced them. Did you get a no hole trigger? I was looking at the Wilson offerings. Please let me know your preference between the 2 (WC or Harrison) as I think you also already bought a Wilson for one of your others?

[dao]

Picked up two from Harrison, and two WC triggers, all of medium length and no holes. The Wilsons have an adjustment for take up, the Harrison does not. But, the Harrison has only about a 1/16" more takeup than it did before with the factory trigger. Good thing I bought two of the black triggers because I put some scratches on the first one while fitting it. I'll save it for another gun, didn't want to put it in the DW. Second one still needed to be fitted, but I was much more careful with it.

Here are pictures of the DW and the RIA, haven't taken a picture of the Colt yet, though it looks identical to the RIA insofar as the trigger goes. I've now got the three standardized on the medium length triggers. The Colt came with a short trigger, but I have no idea if it was orginal to the gun.
I deburred the sear on the RIA. Didn't touch the face of it at all. Took out the little bit of creep it had before. I've got all three adjusted to about 4.5lbs which is about as low as I want to go on a carry gun.

Oh, and one more thing about the Harrison triggers. These particular ones are smooth faced. I'd prefer one with serrations for the increase in tactile feel, but I can live with this.

[BirdsThaWord]

Looks wise, they both are way better than factory, in my opinion. I was wondering about short, medium, long. You just answered that question for me as well with those pics.
The sear… are you talking about the sear where it interfaces the hammer hooks?
On the V10 I saw a very rough surface on the rear facing side of the disco where it interfaces with it’s leg of the sear spring. I did not smooth it as I wanted to be done with the V10, but can imagine that it would result in a nice reduction. About 3-4 evenly spaced horizontal chatter or casting lines/marks there. The factory black coating had been polished away from usage, but you could see that spring leg was having a challenging surface to deal with.
Man, of course I like the ECO (Who wouldn’t), but love how you’ve turned the budget RIA into a custom looking piece. I stripped mine, polished the slide flats on the logo side only, then stuck everything in it’s assigned shoe box. I will toss a part in that box here and there as budget allows, then open it one day to attack that project. I’m learning as YOU go on yours, so thanks for that! : )

[Bawanna]

Funny you read it just like me. I’m frugal with my sandpaper, pointed that out to the wife and she liked it. In fact, instead of me using my weekly allowance, she said “don’t worry, we’ll cover it”. (meaning I get to keep my allowance, YAAAAY!)
I will ad your .02 to the wife (she might say “you already sold me” as I’m in sales and she says I’m always “selling her on what I want”). Let me know when you are about to get that pump .22. I’ll call yer wife and tell her all the reasons why it’s time tested and technologically proven to save money! : )

You get an allowance?????? LUCKY!

[dao]

Looks wise, they both are way better than factory, in my opinion. I was wondering about short, medium, long. You just answered that question for me as well with those pics.
The sear… are you talking about the sear where it interfaces the hammer hooks?
On the V10 I saw a very rough surface on the rear facing side of the disco where it interfaces with it’s leg of the sear spring. I did not smooth it as I wanted to be done with the V10, but can imagine that it would result in a nice reduction. About 3-4 evenly spaced horizontal chatter or casting lines/marks there. The factory black coating had been polished away from usage, but you could see that spring leg was having a challenging surface to deal with.
Man, of course I like the ECO (Who wouldn’t), but love how you’ve turned the budget RIA into a custom looking piece. I stripped mine, polished the slide flats on the logo side only, then stuck everything in it’s assigned shoe box. I will toss a part in that box here and there as budget allows, then open it one day to attack that project. I’m learning as YOU go on yours, so thanks for that! : )

Thanks! Youtube is a gold mine for folks like us, as I'm sure you know Bird. I watched the video in the link below before I even contemplated touching a sear. He says, never ever touch the hammer interface, and for the most part only remove the burrs on top and bottom of the sear, and not the face of it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfnc7-sSBFg

[BirdsThaWord]

You get an allowance?????? LUCKY!

If I'm good I do. Sometimes even a bonus. I try to not buy a bunch of little parts, tools, etc, sticking some away, so every once in a while that's how I buy a new gun.

[BirdsThaWord]

Thanks! Youtube is a gold mine for folks like us, as I'm sure you know Bird. I watched the video in the link below before I even contemplated touching a sear. He says, never ever touch the hammer interface, and for the most part only remove the burrs on top and bottom of the sear, and not the face of it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfnc7-sSBFg

Thanks for sharing dao. Not where I can watch that right now, but I certainly will. Thanks again! :cool:

[BirdsThaWord]

Watched the vid dao. I like that guy. Kinda reminds me of my self in some ways. Lol! He’s a no nonsense, to the point guy. I think he did a great job of explaining everything. I definitely learned something (the actual sear polishing portion) and am now confident in adding that to my “stuff to check/do/improve on” with these 1911 thingies ;) Thanks for sharing my friend!

[jeepster09]

Man that came out AWESOME! You may want to think about a side career polishing, you would have a line at the door. :2eek:

[BirdsThaWord]

Man that came out AWESOME! You may want to think about a side career polishing, you would have a line at the door. :2eek:

Hey thanks Jeep! I'm getting a little quicker, and learning a few things to get a better finished project (Some things I don't like so far). But, I would have to somehow get way faster. With as many hours as I have into one I would have to charge way more than what the pro's charge. Otherwise I'd be earning maybe $2 an hour!

:eek:

[Bawanna]

Hey thanks Jeep! I'm getting a little quicker, and learning a few things to get a better finished project (Some things I don't like so far). But, I would have to somehow get way faster. With as many hours as I have into one I would have to charge way more than what the pro's charge. Otherwise I'd be earning maybe $2 an hour!

:eek:

I can relate to that $2 an hour. I laugh at some of the grip advertisements. Checkering add $5? Takes me a couple days to checker a set of grips. That's why it's a hobby and not a profession.
I'd say yours is more of a profession rather than a hobby even at $2 an hour.

[BirdsThaWord]

Maybe we can start a business together? Between the 2 of us I’m sure we could pull down a solid $3 an hour. You in? :nerd:

[jeepster09]

Well if you move to California.....they are pushing for a $50 an hour MINIMUM wage :smash: Sooooo you could polish one for someone for 2 or 3 grand.
Should be a great money maker.....:music:

[berettabone]

They will need that $50 an hr. plus full time polishing. Between the taxes, cost of a home, rent, etc. they will probably have to work harder than they did working. :p

[Bawanna]

$3 an hour I'm in. I ain't moving to California for a $1000 an hour.

I just can't figure how having a high minimum wage is supposed to help anything. The McD $1 meal becomes $14.95. So what's better.
I figure most fast-food jobs are for starters, High School kids or retiree's just looking for something to do. They say not a living wage, never figured it to be. Just a supplement.
Me and the wife are on opposite sides of the fence, apparently, she doesn't get it either.

Also why I was never pro union even though I had to be on a few jobs and I was the shop steward. It actually held me back, company wanted to pay me more but union said if they did they had to pay everybody more. Even the slackers.

[BirdsThaWord]

None of it makes sense. That’s why they do it. At least that’s what we always said about leadership in the Navy. I’m with you Colonel, I’d rather the $3 vs $1k if it meant living in California.

[berettabone]

They want jobs that pay $50 an hr. because a studio apt. avg. $2500 a month. A 2 bed. 1 bath 1000 sq. ft. home in Oakland, which is hardly a most desirable place, averages $515,000.

[Bawanna]

They get $2500 because people will pay that much. I've often thought if everyone every where could go a week or even 3 days without buying gas, the price would be back down to less than a buck a gallon. But everybody has to play.

[BirdsThaWord]

They want jobs that pay $50 an hr. because a studio apt. avg. $2500 a month. A 2 bed. 1 bath 1000 sq. ft. home in Oakland, which is hardly a most desirable place, averages $515,000.

I was stationed in Alameda. Walked through Oakland a few times. Moved real fast and looked at nobody! And that was over 20 years ago. Can't imagine it would have improved.

Colonel, you are right. Supply & demand. But, we all have to play as you say.

[kenemoore]

So....I think there is something wrong with me. You folks are drooling over Birds shiny 1911, and it does look purdy. But I would not want one, I would be afraid to even hold it, scared of scratching something.
I guess it would be a great BBQ pistol. I have seen some plain Jane 1911's all polished up on GunBroker, sell for about double the regular price, so there is a market, which means people like'm.

When it comes to carry pistols, I like not shiny, nothing flashy. Luckily my K9 and K40 are matted. The MK9 I have, the older gentleman that sold it to me had polished the barrel, but nothing else, so not too bad.

With that all said, I do own two polished nickel firearms, a Model 10-7, 2" barrel revolver, and a RIA .38 Super 1911, with faux ivory grips. (it is my BBQ gun).

[jeepster09]

So....I think there is something wrong with me. You folks are drooling over Birds shiny 1911, and it does look purdy. But I would not want one, I would be afraid to even hold it, scared of scratching something.
I guess it would be a great BBQ pistol. I have seen some plain Jane 1911's all polished up on GunBroker, sell for about double the regular price, so there is a market, which means people like'm.

When it comes to carry pistols, I like not shiny, nothing flashy. Luckily my K9 and K40 are matted. The MK9 I have, the older gentleman that sold it to me had polished the barrel, but nothing else, so not too bad.

With that all said, I do own two polished nickel firearms, a Model 10-7, 2" barrel revolver, and a RIA .38 Super 1911, with faux ivory grips. (it is my BBQ gun).

Here's what you need....:yo:

[Bawanna]

Here's what you need....:yo:

WRONG, that's what I need.

[BirdsThaWord]

So....I think there is something wrong with me. You folks are drooling over Birds shiny 1911, and it does look purdy. But I would not want one, I would be afraid to even hold it, scared of scratching something.
I guess it would be a great BBQ pistol. I have seen some plain Jane 1911's all polished up on GunBroker, sell for about double the regular price, so there is a market, which means people like'm.

When it comes to carry pistols, I like not shiny, nothing flashy. Luckily my K9 and K40 are matted. The MK9 I have, the older gentleman that sold it to me had polished the barrel, but nothing else, so not too bad.

With that all said, I do own two polished nickel firearms, a Model 10-7, 2" barrel revolver, and a RIA .38 Super 1911, with faux ivory grips. (it is my BBQ gun).
I agree! This stuff is totally not for carry. I would not do this kind of stuff to a carry gun.

[BirdsThaWord]

Here's what you need....:yo:
I like it! I love it! I want some more of it!

[Bawanna]

I agree! This stuff is totally not for carry. I would not do this kind of stuff to a carry gun.

I would, nothing wrong with going around stylish. Life's too short to carry an ugly gun, course I've not encountered too many guns that I considered ugly. Course ugly is to the eye of the beholder I reckon.

[jeepster09]

Guns are SUPPOSED to look as good as they shoot, [Glocks are excluded.....cuz we all know they jus plain ugly].

[BirdsThaWord]

I would, nothing wrong with going around stylish. Life's too short to carry an ugly gun, course I've not encountered too many guns that I considered ugly. Course ugly is to the eye of the beholder I reckon.

Mr Fancy Pants!

[BirdsThaWord]

Guns are SUPPOSED to look as good as they shoot, [Glocks are excluded.....cuz we all know they jus plain ugly].

What are you talking about? Man, you just gotta get out more. Glocks can be made to be beautiful!
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[Bawanna]

Note to self.....add these to my list of guns I considered UGLY.

[BirdsThaWord]

True, but when you need something that goes stylishly with the feather boa and pumps, neither can be beat!

[dao]

I would, nothing wrong with going around stylish. Life's too short to carry an ugly gun, course I've not encountered too many guns that I considered ugly. Course ugly is to the eye of the beholder I reckon.

Beauty, and ugliness lie in the eye of the beholder. Which is why I do not carry Walthers. They might have made a good looking gun here and there, but in my time I haven't really seen one. As far as glock goes, they only make one gun. And then stretch it here and there to change calibers and sight radius. I have a G43 that I carry in the summertime but it's hidden :D

[Bawanna]

Yeah, I remember the first two or three weeks I drove my Ford van. The paper sack over my head was rather annoying and inconvenient. Worked a lot better once I cut out eye holes. Course didn't take long to for folks to figure out who I was so the paper sack became rather redundant. I have no idea what redundant means but it seemed like a good fit here. If you can't impress with intelligence, baffle with BS.?

[BirdsThaWord]

Lol!

[kenemoore]

Here's what you need....:yo:

YES!!!!
Now we're talking. That's the kind of pistol you take home with you.

I came extremely close to buying one of those, (not green of course). But...a soldier I know had been gifted/won a Dan Wesson CCO, when he graduated OCS. He hated it. Sold it to me for a good price, my first DW. It was a little cheaper than the S&W.

[BirdsThaWord]

Considering selling one of those S&W’s soon to free up cash for other projects. I would let you guys know 1st if I do. Would be what I paid ($1k) and shipping, or $700 and one of those $300 Tisas in trade. If anyone expresses real interest here, you’d be front of the line.

[dao]

Just ordered this sanding block based on the recommendation of a 1911 customizer/builder/restorer. Looking forward to not having to hold onto loosely wrapped sandpaper on a sharpening stone. Looks like a quality piece. A lot more than I would normally pay for something such as a sanding block, but given who made the recommendation, I’m running with it. I wanted to buy a new msh for the RIA project this week, but this bumped that :eek: One thing I can promise is that this thing will get a ton of mileage. Somebody will prob buy this at a yard sale one day after my death and have no clue how many times I ran this thing back & forth across a guns slide, grip, etc.
20800

So, how do you like this Bird? Seems like the paper doesn't last long enough to make screwing it down worthwhile. I have one that I made out of two scraps of wood but I've stopped screwing them together and now just fold the paper around and keep it in place with my finners. What you have looks like it would be a much better option, and maybe if I didn't use cheap paper it would last longer?

[BirdsThaWord]

Man I absolutely LOVE it. Yes, you go through paper quick, but that's because it really is contacting everything well and gets a lot done quicker. Plus, I'm able to almost shoe shine it across the front strap, dust cover, etc. Then, the ends can be rocked up into areas too. I'm definitely feeling it's a worthy investment.
On a side note, I've always like the stipple front straps I've seen on metal framed guns. I got the little ball mill dremel tips today. I practiced first on the handle of a large crescent wrench, then went to town on the Rock Island. I'll possibly be doing a smooth msh with this texture, as well as the memory bump, but am still up in the air on that as I may do a magwell. I also went ahead and ordered the WC medium trigger as Harrison was still out.
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[Bawanna]

Now who's got the cajones? That's very cool! I wouldn't call that stipple as that's done with a punch but whatever that's called I like it.
Backstrap I might be on board with, but I wouldn't do the memory bump or grip safety, not sure why, I just don't think that would be comfy.

[Bawanna]

True, but when you need something that goes stylishly with the feather boa and pumps, neither can be beat!

I totally forgot my feather boa and pumps. Your absolutely correct, these would be perfect.

[Bawanna]

So, how do you like this Bird? Seems like the paper doesn't last long enough to make screwing it down worthwhile. I have one that I made out of two scraps of wood but I've stopped screwing them together and now just fold the paper around and keep it in place with my finners. What you have looks like it would be a much better option, and maybe if I didn't use cheap paper it would last longer?

That's what I do, I just have a block with thin felt on one side. Hold the paper with my "finners". Good paper does make a big difference. I made my block so I get about 8 pieces? out of a 9x11 sheet. I have a little plastic stand where I can precut, actually I just fold and tear but have all the grits ready to just grab. I most sand wood of course but I do the same for metal when needed.

[BirdsThaWord]

Now who's got the cajones? That's very cool! I wouldn't call that stipple as that's done with a punch but whatever that's called I like it.
Backstrap I might be on board with, but I wouldn't do the memory bump or grip safety, not sure why, I just don't think that would be comfy.
Thanks man! Maybe call it metal skateboard taping?
I hear you on the comfy. Surprisingly, this feels smoother than it looks, with no sanding or anything after the dremel work. Looking at it, I might go ahead and finish the 2 little bottom sections of the front strap. Thought it might look cleaner not doing so, but now thinking the opposite. Also, might clean up the top and put a clean line across there.

[BirdsThaWord]

Ok, did what I said. Continued the texture all the way down. I took a needle file to the top and cut in a definitive stopping point. Looking at the pic, I will clean that line up a bit.
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[BirdsThaWord]

Saw this on a couple of Nighthawk’s, but I don’t have the machinery to make the nice borders around the areas, so I gotta think the areas through. The front strap may be it, also since considering the possible magwell/msh combo.
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[dao]

Ok, did what I said. Continued the texture all the way down. I took a needle file to the top and cut in a definitive stopping point. Looking at the pic, I will clean that line up a bit.
20834
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Fine job Bird! That is your RIA I take it? I haven't done anything there with mine yet. It felt good in hand at the range but I really should do something with it. Can't remember if yours is in 9mm too?
Can you give us a little instruction on how you did that? And exactly what bit you used in your dremel? I like it a whole lot more than the typical stippling we see.

[BirdsThaWord]

Fine job Bird! That is your RIA I take it? I haven't done anything there with mine yet. It felt good in hand at the range but I really should do something with it. Can't remember if yours is in 9mm too?
Can you give us a little instruction on how you did that? And exactly what bit you used in your dremel? I like it a whole lot more than the typical stippling we see.
Thanks dao! Glad you like it. Yes, this the little 9mm RIA just like you started with. Attached is a picture of the tip I used. I just kind of drew out squiggly lines, then branched off of those lines to make little shapes like an eye, a circle a triangle, a diamond, etc. Every once in a while I would go back over the lines trying to make them uniform. Glad I practiced 1st as it likes to get away from you. I have a cheap Harbor Freight knock off rotary tool. Not sure if a real Dremel does it, but the whole tip can move in and out ofvthe body maybe 1/4". I'll press it down and it will either take off away from where I have it held, or retract inwards. Frustrating! Lol! I had scribed a small line at the top where I wanted to terminate, but because of what I just explained, I was not able to keep it there. So, at the end, I just went back and forth with a needle file to make a termination line. As I stated in that other post, I need to cut that line a wee bit deeper for a cleaner look. Hope all this makes sense and helps! 😀
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[BirdsThaWord]

Also, here's the video I watched first. Maybe you would like a different texture? This video shows a few.
https://youtu.be/9NvDbmEivlM?feature=shared

[dao]

Thanks Bird, it does make sense, and I actually have one of those tips. I just don't know if I have the courage to try it.

FWIW the tips in my dremel do not move in and out. Once you tighten the collet they are firmly collared.

[BirdsThaWord]

You should have an easier time than I did then. It's not the tip that moves in and out, but the whole shaft, collet, tip.
I understand the uneasy part, but It's easy once you practice on something that doesn't matter if you mess up on. You got this man!😉

[Bawanna]

Saw this on a couple of Nighthawk’s, but I don’t have the machinery to make the nice borders around the areas, so I gotta think the areas through. The front strap may be it, also since considering the possible magwell/msh combo.
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You just need a needle file for that border. That's pretty much how metal checkering is done. Probably tape off the line you want and go at it. I suspect it's a slow process. I'm frantically trying to remember a member here that checkered his front straps on his Kahrs. Looked perfect, shot off his back porch, wife and granddaughter shot, just can't pull the name out of the exceedingly small memory bank.

[BirdsThaWord]

You just need a needle file for that border. That's pretty much how metal checkering is done. Probably tape off the line you want and go at it. I suspect it's a slow process. I'm frantically trying to remember a member here that checkered his front straps on his Kahrs. Looked perfect, shot off his back porch, wife and granddaughter shot, just can't pull the name out of the exceedingly small memory bank.
Sounds like a pretty cool dude! I remember a guy posting pics of an MK9 that had pretty much the same front strap texture as what I just did. I think it was done by Robar or C&S. I would love to have a mill. I would do flat top slides, ball milled grooves in them, etc. etc. etc. Tough to make a beautiful, completely squared/same depth, etc half round tunnel in metal with a file. I'm patient and careful, but know my limits. I think checkering, using those guides would be a little easier than freehand. But then there's that video I posted a while back of that old dude using a spinning cutting blade of some sort and making pretty dang straight looking checkering on grips.

[Bawanna]

One of the many benefits of this forum is simple inspiration, that and a little shoving in the right direction. I've been planning to do this for years but never got round tuit.
This is a Magnum Research frame blem that I got years ago for a grip making model. With Birds recent endeavor into the metal working business I decided to give it a go.
Thought I'd just try a border first, not sure what to do inside, something like Bird did or what that video called a leaf pattern or what.
Anyhow so far results.

[BirdsThaWord]

I’m glad to hear that you received the round tuit that I sent you! ;) Please hastily return it as I often need it too!

Well let me eat my words… needle file as you suggested? If so, then I’m a monkey’s uncle. What you did right there opens my mind up to even more possibilities of what can be done without expensive equipment. I’m REALLY curious to see how the rest of yours plays out.
Please explain what your process and tools were. Scribed the box? Followed it with the file? Did you use any sort of guide like is used when running a file to checker straps? Or, all free hand? Tell me! Tell me man!

[BirdsThaWord]

That's what I do, I just have a block with thin felt on one side. Hold the paper with my "finners". Good paper does make a big difference. I made my block so I get about 8 pieces? out of a 9x11 sheet. I have a little plastic stand where I can precut, actually I just fold and tear but have all the grits ready to just grab. I most sand wood of course but I do the same for metal when needed.
I’m on the yard sale lookout for one of those guillotine paper cutters like we used in the print shop when I was in the Navy. Has little grid lines at certain umpteenths of an inch each (like are in the background of most of dao’s pistol pics), so I can line it up, drop the blade and get nice, quickly made pieces. I wanna get me a nice amount of each grit made, at the proper width/length, so that endeavor doesn’t stop the action when I’m at it. Although sometimes the fingers/hands do appreciate the break. I don’t see how bodyshop guys or pro gun refinishers do this stuff all day long. Maybe that just gets relegated to the young bucks.

[BirdsThaWord]

I’m sitting here looking at your pics and saying “what could I do/how could I make those borders perfect, like a ball mill cut had run it?” I think… do what you did first. Then, depending on wether it is a v groove desired, or a ball milled groove… Take both a circular needle file and one of those triangular needle files and cut out a small section. Get rid of any tapering between the tip and the handle end, creating a little stick of a file. Lay it down into those lines you just created and run it back and forth, end to end, over and over. Eventually, all of those lines will conform to that round or triangular stick. I guess I need to order another needle file set to cut up!
20841

[dao]

You can buy "serration" files, a good one for about $40. This guy shows not only how to use it, but also how to set your frame in DIY jigs to make sure you start straight. Once your get a run the width of the file established you use that to get the adjacent cuts straight also, much like making dentil molding for a fireplace. Or jigging the sides of a box for finger joints. Your first cut is the critical one. Once you have that the rest fall into place perfectly.
Notice how he uses the zip ties to make sure his top lines get started straight. I love watching guys that figure things out while flying by the seat of their pants. Like me most of the time :D

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kYix3oMDl-o

[BirdsThaWord]

You can buy "serration" files, a good one for about $40. This guy shows not only how to use it, but also how to set your frame in DIY jigs to make sure you start straight. Once your get a run the width of the file established you use that to get the adjacent cuts straight also, much like making dentil molding for a fireplace. Or jigging the sides of a box for finger joints. Your first cut is the critical one. Once you have that the rest fall into place perfectly.
Notice how he uses the zip ties to make sure his top lines get started straight. I love watching guys that figure things out while flying by the seat of their pants. Like me most of the time :D

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kYix3oMDl-o
Heck yeah doa! Nice find there man! Now that’s the kind of stuff I LOVE to learn, making do and creating without the expensive tools (such as a jig). LOVE IT! Thanks brother!

[Bawanna]

A lot of people just use a thread file. In the video he's going all the way to the edge, no border. I've often wonder how to do that with a border where you have to stop.

What I did on my border thing was just used a straight edge and drew a line with a fine point sharpy. Would be better to figure out a jig but I just free handed with a dremel and a small ball bit, go a little groove going, then straightened and cleaned up with a file. Still undecided and momentarily unmotivated to figure out how to fill the box.

Bird, your round tuit is back in the mail, maybe that's where I went wrong, sent it too soon?

[dao]

You bet. Forgot to mention the "serration files" come in various sizes, be it one to do 25tpi, 30tpi, etc. The sides are also parallel to each other so that the serrations are straight. And the files themselves are of a uniform thickness throughout. The size I was looking at was 6" long. He shows on his videop that you don't want to let it rest against the heel of your hand, but rather it's grasped between two fingers of the back hand, and the thumb of the forehand rests on top of the file. Between that method of holding it, and the use of the simple jigs it would be hard to cut an initial set of groves that are not straight.

Also, I don't think the sides of the file are serrated, like those on a mill fine would be. If left smooth it would allow him to ride right up against his homemade jig for the sides, and against his zip tie for the top. And like I mentioned once you have that initial set in, you just move the serrations of the file over one or two lines and use them to guide the file to cut the next line(s).

When I use my router table to make finger joints I go very slowly to avoid tearout, and to get those inital cutouts perfect. Then move the piece to the just-cut slot to make the next pass. On a frontstrap, I think going very slowly and not trying to take out too much material is vitally important, especially getting those initial cuts established. As impatient as I can be even I can see the value in taking things slow so as not to ruin a frame by trying to rush the job. I would likely have to walk away several times for a frontstrap, and draw it out for a week or so. That is, if I ever get brave enough to try it!

[BirdsThaWord]

A lot of people just use a thread file. In the video he's going all the way to the edge, no border. I've often wonder how to do that with a border where you have to stop.

What I did on my border thing was just used a straight edge and drew a line with a fine point sharpy. Would be better to figure out a jig but I just free handed with a dremel and a small ball bit, go a little groove going, then straightened and cleaned up with a file. Still undecided and momentarily unmotivated to figure out how to fill the box.

Bird, your round tuit is back in the mail, maybe that's where I went wrong, sent it too soon?
Nah, you did not send it to soon. You are just doing what I did, figuring out as you go and then getting back at it after some careful thought. That’s why I posted those first pics, then a second set. After watching doa’s suggested vid, then one that auto played after it, I will be getting some different files, using zip ties, making my own jig, etc. This is getting exciting! : )

[BirdsThaWord]

You bet. Forgot to mention the "serration files" come in various sizes, be it one to do 25tpi, 30tpi, etc. The sides are also parallel to each other so that the serrations are straight. And the files themselves are of a uniform thickness throughout. The size I was looking at was 6" long. He shows on his videop that you don't want to let it rest against the heel of your hand, but rather it's grasped between two fingers of the back hand, and the thumb of the forehand rests on top of the file. Between that method of holding it, and the use of the simple jigs it would be hard to cut an initial set of groves that are not straight.

Also, I don't think the sides of the file are serrated, like those on a mill fine would be. If left smooth it would allow him to ride right up against his homemade jig for the sides, and against his zip tie for the top. And like I mentioned once you have that initial set in, you just move the serrations of the file over one or two lines and use them to guide the file to cut the next line(s).

When I use my router table to make finger joints I go very slowly to avoid tearout, and to get those inital cutouts perfect. Then move the piece to the just-cut slot to make the next pass. On a frontstrap, I think going very slowly and not trying to take out too much material is vitally important, especially getting those initial cuts established. As impatient as I can be even I can see the value in taking things slow so as not to ruin a frame by trying to rush the job. I would likely have to walk away several times for a frontstrap, and draw it out for a week or so. That is, if I ever get brave enough to try it!
10-4 on everything you said. Yes, I’ve watched a few smithing vids were the “safe sided” files were mentioned, or those like you said with no serrations on the sides. I’ve none of those as of yet, but am hoping to get outfitted with some. That, and a lot more after watching and learning more and more as of late.
I’m betting you will jump in at some point. You’ve fitted some parts so far that I have not, so if you can do that, then you’ve got this. Everything you said (going slow mostly, your experience routing precise fingers in wood without tear out) along with your watching these kinds of vids tell us so.

[Bawanna]

Couldn't leave well enough alone. Glad it's not the real thing, I'm still gonna work it, it's getting better. Did this all just free hand with a dremel and some ball bits and files. Doubt I'll ever attempt the real thing. You can see where I worked the first 4 or 5 horizontal grooves ,getting them straightened out. I'll do the rest and get a bit of angle on the lines and things might be better. Or not.

[dao]

It's looking checkered Colonel! Doing it by hand like that, I can't believe anyone could get it perfectly right the first time.

I picked up a Grobet USA 6" 00 Cut 20lpi file tonight. I think I'm going to try it on either the RIA or the Tisas stainless. The file was less than $30!

[BirdsThaWord]

Not bad at all considering 1st time and all free hand. I can tell you for sure that there's no way I could have made those straight lines with this dremel thingy I have.
What you did has definitely opened my eyes to some real possibilities. At some point I am going to find me some scrap and start practicing doing some other stuff. Looks like we are going to be having some fun with this stuff!

[BirdsThaWord]

Been wanting to try to make some custom grips for a while. Wanting a set that will cover the frame, blend smoothly into the front strap and better encompass the plunger tube. Today I got some air dry clay and got started. I did not want to have to figure where the bushing/screw holes were, so I used the existing grips and am building the new grip prototype around them.
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[BirdsThaWord]

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Done for the day. Maybe 75% done with one side. Once completed, I’ll use these to make a silicone mould. I’ll then cast me some epoxy resin grips.

[Bawanna]

I used to always bury the safety plunger tube, just thought it looked better but many prefer that it isn't covered, especially the guys with guns like yours, highly polished etc. I still try to at least put a bit of pressure on the plunger tube as insurance so it won't pop off although I've never had one come off. I made 4 or 5 sets last couple weeks with the tube uncovered, sure faster and easier.
You get on your epoxy resin and I'll try to whittle out a set using your specs. We'll see how it shakes out. That's an officer size frame, correctomundo?

[BirdsThaWord]

I used to always bury the safety plunger tube, just thought it looked better but many prefer that it isn't covered, especially the guys with guns like yours, highly polished etc. I still try to at least put a bit of pressure on the plunger tube as insurance so it won't pop off although I've never had one come off. I made 4 or 5 sets last couple weeks with the tube uncovered, sure faster and easier.
You get on your epoxy resin and I'll try to whittle out a set using your specs. We'll see how it shakes out. That's an officer size frame, correctomundo?

Sounds like you've been real busy! Yes, I've read of the plunger tubes unstaking themselves, so thought it may be a good idea. Yes, this is the little RIA officer I recently got. It's turning out to be a great little test bed for stuff I've been wanting to try. It won't be polished, or at least the frame won't be, so no worries there. Can't wait to do what I'm going to do to the frame. I won't let the cat out of the bag just yet, but if I can pull it off it will be pretty cool!

[BirdsThaWord]

Minus some touch ups, first side is done 😊
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[dao]

How much heft do those have Bird? They look nice. A lot better than I could do too!

[BirdsThaWord]

How much heft do those have Bird? They look nice. A lot better than I could do too!

Thanks dao! I just started the other side. It is out in the sun hardening as I type this. Should be done with that side a little quicker as I only have to clearance for the mag release vs the takedown, plumger and thumb safety on that 1st side. Once done, I will patch any little areas that need fixing. I'll then glue them down and creat a box around them to pour the silicone in. Once dried, I'll mix & pour the resin. I'm actually thinking that my first set will be used to make my 2nd mould. I can sand/shape/drill the hardened epoxy with more pressure, etc as I have to go gingerly with this clay to prevent cracking/crumbling. All in all, hoping to hsve a completed set in a few weeks. I have big plams for the frame of the RIA though, so I might get sidetracked. 😂
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[BirdsThaWord]

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Ok, letting the cat outta the bag on the frame. The attached pic is the edge of a boxcutter that I'm practicing on. Brush on fingernail polish, then scratch it away. Not happy overall, so more practice is needed to get a damascus look. Once I'm satisfied with the art portion, I'll be using a combo of acid etching and electro etching to do the frame to mimic damascus. With the grip design I have in mind, along with polished controls and slide, should make for a nice BBQ look. Keeping my fingers crossed. 😊

[dao]

Sounds like a great idea Bird! Can't wait to see that as a finished product. Unique!?!

The first of my two checkering files arrived today. I cancelled the order for the 20lpi and instead ordered a 25 and a 30lpi. I'm going to try to do a 30lpi frontstrap on the RIA. I think 20 would have been too rough. Might have worked ok on a mainspring housing but since most are 25 I think 30 in front and 25 in back will be a good combo.

[BirdsThaWord]

Sounds like a great idea Bird! Can't wait to see that as a finished product. Unique!?!

The first of my two checkering files arrived today. I cancelled the order for the 20lpi and instead ordered a 25 and a 30lpi. I'm going to try to do a 30lpi frontstrap on the RIA. I think 20 would have been too rough. Might have worked ok on a mainspring housing but since most are 25 I think 30 in front and 25 in back will be a good combo.

Oh man, I bet you can't wait to get at the checkering! Crazy, we're gonna have lil RIA's that look like full on customs. Can't wait to see yours too!

[BirdsThaWord]

Made some progress on the other side grip. Had a problem as the wood grip popped out of the clay sometimes, which had me cracking the clay with pressure. Had to be extra gingerly on it. Not too sure about the top of the grip. Looking a bit like an AMT Back Up grip. May make it "more roundy" (how the wife would say it 😂)
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[dao]

That frame sure isn't looking like one of your usuals Bird. But that's why we buy the inexpensive ones, so we can experiment on them right?

[BirdsThaWord]

That frame sure isn't looking like one of your usuals Bird. But that's why we buy the inexpensive ones, so we can experiment on them right?
Ed Zachary! Lol! I’m still hoping not to mess it up though. I know you’ve been careful with the things you’ve done with yours, and have actually range tested it. Hoping I don’t do a Homer Simpson “DOH!” on this one. ;)

[kenemoore]

Sounds like a great idea Bird! Can't wait to see that as a finished product. Unique!?!

The first of my two checkering files arrived today. I cancelled the order for the 20lpi and instead ordered a 25 and a 30lpi. I'm going to try to do a 30lpi frontstrap on the RIA. I think 20 would have been too rough. Might have worked ok on a mainspring housing but since most are 25 I think 30 in front and 25 in back will be a good combo.

I have three 1911's with checkering. An EB Executive Elite (almost 30 years old), it has 25 for and aft. A DW CCO, with "chain link", for and aft, do not like it at all, I put skate board tape over it. DW Valkyre CCO 30 for, and 25 aft. I like this the best, but the 25, 25 is not bad.

On a side note, the bluing on the EB is completely gone, looks like it's a hundred years old. I have been thinking about sending it back to the mothership for re-bluing, but not sure it's worth it. Might try something more modern. I used to carry it every day. If I did not wipe it down every day or two, especially if it rained, you could see surface spots starting.

[BirdsThaWord]

I have three 1911's with checkering. An EB Executive Elite (almost 30 years old), it has 25 for and aft. A DW CCO, with "chain link", for and aft, do not like it at all, I put skate board tape over it. DW Valkyre CCO 30 for, and 25 aft. I like this the best, but the 25, 25 is not bad.

On a side note, the bluing on the EB is completely gone, looks like it's a hundred years old. I have been thinking about sending it back to the mothership for re-bluing, but not sure it's worth it. Might try something more modern. I used to carry it every day. If I did not wipe it down every day or two, especially if it rained, you could see surface spots starting.
Wonder is this stuff would be any good. I planned to try it out in the future. https://youtu.be/j0Npeh2kcDU?si=kN7J7IWY-QywtJtC

[Bawanna]

Wonder is this stuff would be any good. I planned to try it out in the future. https://youtu.be/j0Npeh2kcDU?si=kN7J7IWY-QywtJtC

That stuff looks like it works pretty darn nice. I'm surprised he didn't rinse it off with water to neutralize the process. It has to be caustic I would imagine. I might give it a try myself if I find another gun needing bluing. I wonder if like hot bluing everything has to come apart or if one could dip the whole shebang semi together? Research needed here.

[BirdsThaWord]

That stuff looks like it works pretty darn nice. I'm surprised he didn't rinse it off with water to neutralize the process. It has to be caustic I would imagine. I might give it a try myself if I find another gun needing bluing. I wonder if like hot bluing everything has to come apart or if one could dip the whole shebang semi together? Research needed here.
I was kind of wondering the same. Either a distilled water rinse, or baking soda rinse. I figure stuff like that is worth a try. Sure does seem like it would save a lot of labor and time. O wonder if highly polisged metal would come out kinda royal blue?

[dao]

I have three 1911's with checkering. An EB Executive Elite (almost 30 years old), it has 25 for and aft. A DW CCO, with "chain link", for and aft, do not like it at all, I put skate board tape over it. DW Valkyre CCO 30 for, and 25 aft. I like this the best, but the 25, 25 is not bad.

On a side note, the bluing on the EB is completely gone, looks like it's a hundred years old. I have been thinking about sending it back to the mothership for re-bluing, but not sure it's worth it. Might try something more modern. I used to carry it every day. If I did not wipe it down every day or two, especially if it rained, you could see surface spots starting.

I too think that 30 for and 25 aft is perfect. Second choice would be 25-25.

Ken check out battleworn. It's a newer process applied by custom makers now. But it can be done to some older blue/black guns using scotchbrite pads. You might like it. I do.

[BirdsThaWord]

I too think that 30 for and 25 aft is perfect. Second choice would be 25-25.

Ken check out battleworn. It's a newer process applied by custom makers now. But it can be done to some older blue/black guns using scotchbrite pads. You might like it. I do.
I do like that look. I had a Colt Competition (sure I showed you once or twice by now) I sorta did that to. If you zoom in you'll see where I hit most of the edges, and did more "wear" on the muzzle.. Everyone thought it was “honest wear”. I want another blued full size, which I’m lacking at the moment, and would be doing that again. Do it Ken! Do it! : )
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[dao]

That's in interesting set of grips/MSH on that Colt Bird. Do tell us more!

[Bawanna]

I checked my Vbob and the front strap is checker at 16 LPI. It's great for traction but eats your hand after a long range session. I still love it. Person could take some sandpaper to it and tone the points down a bit but haven't gone there yet.

[dao]

That is pretty course. I haven't checked my CBob, but because I haven't shot it either it doesn't hurt my hand :D

[BirdsThaWord]

That's in interesting set of grips/MSH on that Colt Bird. Do tell us more!

Hey dao, those grabbed my interest as soon as I laid eyes on them. Not sure if they are still made or not, but Hogue makes/made matching G10 grip and msh sets called "Magrips" that were/are blended at the base to form a smooth funnel. You could/can get a flat/smooth or arched msh (I normally prefer smooth, but for appearance went with arched). I loved 'em and got lots of compliments/questions in regards to them.

[dao]

Looks like they're still selling them, but only for full size. I'd seen them on their site before but forgot, and your pictures do them better justice. So, do the grips extend down below the magwell, and the msh does also such that they mate up in a vertical line at the heel of the gun? Or is the msh actually a more typical magwell type? Or is it all one piece?

[BirdsThaWord]

I don't think they ever made an officers size, but could be wrong.
It is two pieces, and your description is spot on "the grips extend down below the magwell, and the msh does also such that they mate up in a vertical line at the heel of the gun".

[dao]

Decided not to wait on the 30lpi file so I got started with the 25lpi today. This is a bit more than two hours of work. My hands are sore, soft as they are these days.

I was pleased to see that when I got to the bottom the lines were even with the bottom of the frame. But we'll see how it looks after I cut the vertical lines. I'll need to clean this up a bit first, and I really wish I had a riffler file to chase these grooves.

[Bawanna]

Dang that looks great! I'm wondering now how hard it will be to do the vertical lines. Awesome that the lines stayed true and met the bottom of the magwell so nice.

[BirdsThaWord]

Very nice dao! Looks like a pro job from here. You are like me, getting after it asap. So, when does dao customs open for business? 😄
+1 on the bottom row lining up so perfectly. I see you used the zip tie method. Did you get a jig, or are you going to use that guys cutting board jig method?

[Bawanna]

I do like that look. I had a Colt Competition (sure I showed you once or twice by now) I sorta did that to. If you zoom in you'll see where I hit most of the edges, and did more "wear" on the muzzle.. Everyone thought it was “honest wear”. I want another blued full size, which I’m lacking at the moment, and would be doing that again. Do it Ken! Do it! : )
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Like Dao, I found these at Hogue. Soon as I come up with a 100$ gonna get me some. Hard part is deciding which ones I want. Several colors and finishes to choose from. I know I want flat mainspring, and probably checkering, if I love them it's gonna hurt as I'll need 6 or 7 more sets so nobody feels left out ya know?

I did get me a mag well, one of the cheap ones that just hooks on the bottom grip screw. It works, doesn't fit to well but I was just experimenting.
I'd like to get one of them flash suppressors for a commander size. Tried to find one like one of you posted with no holes but couldn't find one.
The commander carries well for me, if I add the flash hider it would be a full size........think I still want one.

You guys are a terrible influence on my innocent self. Trying to keep up with yall is a huge challenge.

[BirdsThaWord]

Like Dao, I found these at Hogue. Soon as I come up with a 100$ gonna get me some. Hard part is deciding which ones I want. Several colors and finishes to choose from. I know I want flat mainspring, and probably checkering, if I love them it's gonna hurt as I'll need 6 or 7 more sets so nobody feels left out ya know?

I did get me a mag well, one of the cheap ones that just hooks on the bottom grip screw. It works, doesn't fit to well but I was just experimenting.
I'd like to get one of them flash suppressors for a commander size. Tried to find one like one of you posted with no holes but couldn't find one.
The commander carries well for me, if I add the flash hider it would be a full size........think I still want one.

You guys are a terrible influence on my innocent self. Trying to keep up with yall is a huge challenge.
When the customizing bug bites, we sure do bleed a lot of money!

[dao]

Well, I originally said I was going to take a week, because my impatience would prevent me from taking the time needed to make it turn out right. Turned out I was too impatient to take a week. The verticql cuts were actually a bit harder to do. I thought it would be the other way around given that I was removing less material. I was wrong about that too. The length of the cuts made up for the missing material between the horizontal lines. But using the same type of jig that the guy in the helpful video used I managed to get the lines straight. But next time I'll take more time on the verticals and go with lighter strokes.

But, it didn't turn out half bad. It's not perfect, but then again neither is the gun itself. Or yours truly. But it's better with the checkering. The 25lpi is rather aggressive but the gun shoots so softly, being heavy like it is, I don't think it will be mean to me at the range because it just doesn't move around much in the hand. Forgot to say I did take it to the range last week, along with my ECO. Both shot well, and the bad guys were sufficiently ventilated.

If my thumbs and the webs of my hands heal up I might just tackle the Tisas Carry sometime soon. Though I think I'll do the 30lpi on it in the hopes that it will be easier to do.

Oh, and btw, I do like this better than skateboard tape :D

[dao]

On the other note, I don't think I could do the Hogue Maggrips. I'm a certified grip whore and I just don't think I could put a set on and leave them on. Plus there's the price. I try to buy my grips on the cheap, used if at all possible. I haunt ebay and the 1911 boards and take them as they come up. I also buy a lot from StonerCNC. I can get a set there, made to order for $44.95, shipped to me. Luckily for me I'm partial to G10 and that's all they have. I have some wood grips but aside from the ones the Colonel made for me, all were used when I bought them.

[BirdsThaWord]

FANTASTIC! BRAVO! I think it turned out great. If so aggressive, maybe get looooong strips of sandpaper and “shoe shine” sand the tips off?
I’m with you on the grips. I’m a deal finder, but will spend money on nice ones that grab me on occasion. Lately, only for stuff like the Colt, STI or others that I feel will one day be nest eggs. The one’s you have on in that pic… I think should be permanent. But just my opinion.
I’m yet to have any Bawanna grips in my collection, but something tells me that is about to change. Hoping to finish the Colt soon and the STI might be home for some of his wittled goodness!
Once again, really nice job on the checkering my firend. I’d be real proud!