CW9 won't fire, trigger all the way back

[Laneman]

My wife's EDC CW9 won't fire with trigger pull. I can get it to fire if I pull trigger very hard against the stop. Gun has always required pulling trigger almost to the stop, which has concerned me since day 1. Instincts told me it would some day fail to fire, and now that day is here. I think this is a known issue, just looking for a fix. I lubed all the recommended places for the CW9 and it started to work, but trigger pull was still almost against the stop. Next day I tried it and it failed to fire again, so I think I am done. I want this gun to fire with at least 1/4 inch of travel remaining in order to trust it. Is that possible with this model?

[yqtszhj]

I had a similar issue with a CW45 which required some trigger bar work. You may want to give Kahr a call. Not sure if you will get that 1/4 inch your looking for though as all mine break all the way back but it should be fixable. I never had a problem with my 9mm, only my 45.

[Laneman]

I had a similar issue with a CW45 which required some trigger bar work. You may want to give Kahr a call. Not sure if you will get that 1/4 inch your looking for though as all mine break all the way back but it should be fixable. I never had a problem with my 9mm, only my 45.

I'd like to repair it, do you remember what you did to repair the trigger bar? Kahr wants me to pay them to fix it. If it's just some filing or replacing a part I can do that

[yqtszhj]

I'd like to repair it, do you remember what you did to repair the trigger bar? Kahr wants me to pay them to fix it. If it's just some filing or replacing a part I can do that

If I remember correctly I had to bend the trigger bar ever so slightly to make the trigger to cocking cam distance a little shorter so that it would allow the cocking cam to rotate a little farther (if I remember right it was not rotating far enough) and release the striker in the slide. You could always order another trigger bar from Kahr in case you see some odd wearing. Replacing the trigger bar is not for the faint of heart though. At times you need 3 hands to get it all back together.

If you want to do what may sound like a weird test, unload the pistol and put it in the freezer to get real cold then take it out and dry fire it to see if it works better. It won’t fix the problem but could tell you just how little tolerance we’re talking about. Again if I remember right mine would fail when it got warm but worked every time when really cold.

[BirdsThaWord]

Lineman, if you look at the little removable plastic plate on the side of the frame, behind there is where the trigger bar usually bows outward. When they are shot a lot the contact point with the cocking cam grows apart as the trigger bar wears the backside of that plastic plate (allows it to move more outward). If memory serves me, one forum member here replaced the plate with a new one, after discovering how worn it was, which pushed the bar back up against the cocking cam, making it work again. Try removing that plastic plate and looking for wear there. Test the trigger, with that side plate off by pushing the trigger bar inwards with your finger while trying to pull the trigger to see if it works while doing so. This would mimic a newly installed side plate, which would also push that trigger bar inwards. This is a much easier observation and test to perform than replacing a trigger bar. Hope this helps and hope you get it running reliably again.

[dao]

I love this site. Lots of helpful people here.

[yqtszhj]

Lineman, if you look at the little removable plastic plate on the side of the frame, behind there is where the trigger bar usually bows outward. When they are shot a lot the contact point with the cocking cam grows apart as the trigger bar wears the backside of that plastic plate (allows it to move more outward). If memory serves me, one forum member here replaced the plate with a new one, after discovering how worn it was, which pushed the bar back up against the cocking cam, making it work again. Try removing that plastic plate and looking for wear there. Test the trigger, with that side plate off by pushing the trigger bar inwards with your finger while trying to pull the trigger to see if it works while doing so. This would mimic a newly installed side plate, which would also push that trigger bar inwards. This is a much easier observation and test to perform than replacing a trigger bar. Hope this helps and hope you get it running reliably again.

Good idea. I forgot about that. A side plate may do it.

The hillbilly in me would put duct tape where it’s worn. It wouldn’t work but that’s in my genes I think.

[BirdsThaWord]

Good idea. I forgot about that. A side plate may do it.

The hillbilly in me would put duct tape where it’s worn. It wouldn’t work but that’s in my genes I think.
You probably would not be the first to do so. I’ve found all sorts of hillbilly stuff on non working guns I’ve bought. Kinda forces one to learn! I would actually do something similar though, if in a pinch, which would be to find some very slim (slimmer than a credit card), smooth plastic (such as a plastic package that new grips or a magazine might come in). Cut a piece to shape, slightly wider than the trigger bar, then super glue it to the backside of the plate. Then add some grease to the outside of the trigger bar where it would rub the new plastic. Not a long term solution, but should work for a while while sourcing a new plate.

[Laneman]

Thanks for the tips. Will pull side plate and try all the suggestions to see what works.

[BirdsThaWord]

Thanks for the tips. Will pull side plate and try all the suggestions to see what works.
Good luck with it and please keep us updated. Rootin for ya!:cheer2:

[Laneman]

I fixed it!!! Here's how I did it: I took off the side plate and studied how the trigger bar #13 contacts the cocking cam #15. I noticed a fair amount of trigger bar travel (pre-travel?) before the striker released. The trigger bar part no. 13 has a tang bent at 90 degrees that as it is pulled contacts the cocking cam #15. I realized if I could bend the 90 degree tang forward a little that would close up the gap and contact the cocking cam sooner. I'm not a gunsmith so I don't know if this is an appropriate repair. The rear of the trigger bar can be lifted out of the handle some, just enough to grab it with needle nose pliers. I grabbed the flat part of the trigger bar with the needle nose pliers and bent it a little to move the tang closer to the cam. Assembled the gun and it works now, even after some time in the freezer. I still have some pre-travel, just not as much, so I don't think it will go full auto on me (will test fire it with only two rounds in it in case it does). I believe the trigger bar tang bends away from the cam slightly each time the gun is used. I only have about 200 rounds through the gun, so I think the stamped steel trigger bar should be re-designed. Search for Kahr CW9 parts diagram for a photo of parts.

I think this will eventually happen again so I will not use this as a carry gun, will probably sell it. If there is an aftermarket trigger bar that is more rigid that should fix it permanently.

[yqtszhj]

Good deal. It will probably be good from now on. Let us know how the test fire goes.

[Bawanna]

I can't imagine that trigger bar would flex or bend under normal firing. The travel you had and apparently cured had to have left the factory that way. No way there's enough pressure on the cocking cam to bend that tang. I could be wrong, have been before (twice I think, last time was 1958) so test the heck out of it and see if I'm wrong again.

[Laneman]

I can't imagine that trigger bar would flex or bend under normal firing. The travel you had and apparently cured had to have left the factory that way. No way there's enough pressure on the cocking cam to bend that tang. I could be wrong, have been before (twice I think, last time was 1958) so test the heck out of it and see if I'm wrong again.

It test fired perfectly. Bawanna, it did not leave the factory failing to fire. It had no trigger issues until now. I read a few posts on different web sites that other Kahr owners experienced the same issue, working fine until failing with a low round count of 200 or less. It's possible some other cause created the excess gap between tang and cam. Either way, I'm selling it. It was a chilling thought to learn that my wife's carry gun would have failed in an emergency.

[BirdsThaWord]

Glad you were able to get it somewhat figured out Laneman. I will take your experience and file it away for the next time as a suggestion, should someone have the same issue. And don’t listen to Bawanna. I know for sure that he was also wrong once back in 1985. ;)

[Bawanna]

Crap, I forgot about that one.......

[FreeMe]

Well, now I have to wonder if there's any difference in the trigger bar between the CW, P, and K series.

[LabTrek]

Well, now I have to wonder if there's any difference in the trigger bar between the CW, P, and K series.

CW and P (polymer frames) the same. K (metal frames) different from polymer

[FreeMe]

CW and P (polymer frames) the same. K (metal frames) different from polymer

But what about the trigger bar? Guess I need to do some comparing. Ack. I don't have any CW's. Just K's and P's.

[Bawanna]

The CW and the P probably have the same trigger bar. The K might be different.

[LabTrek]

I was talking about the trigger bar

[FreeMe]

I was talking about the trigger bar

Got it, thanks.

My P9 still has a low round count. I'll be watching for this as I put it through paces, now that it's sporting the Holosun sight. I did install the Galloway flat trigger, but I don't know if it will make a difference regarding this.