Checkering my Tisas

[dao]

I figured I hijacked enough of Bird's Polishing Project yesterday. Sorry about that Bird!

Today I tried my hand at checkering 30lpi. I did my Tisas Carry .45 Stainless Commander. I have to say that overall this one was harder than the 25lpi I did on the RIA. The horizonal lines were easier to lay down, but the verticals were harder, and painful. I ended up with a blister on the middle finger of my right hand. Seems that the finer checkering means that there isn't as much meat between the lines and so it takes much more care to make sure the verticals (which I did last), stay on track. Keeping the file in between the lines is harder to do. All in all though I'm happy with it. I like the feel of the finer checkering. It looks fine but I'm sure under a microscope or even a very close inspection with the naked eye not every checker would have a needle point to it.

Once again I was pleased to find that the horizontal lines lined up with the bottom of the magwell.

Once I get the riffler files I ordered I'll take one to the top edge to clean it up a bit.

I think doing this to an alloy frame would be both easier and harder. Easier to remove the material, but also easier to get off track and less forgiving if you did. On the SS if you slip a bit it's no big deal because there isn't much taken out with each stroke. With aluminum I think that a slip could easily make a goof that would be permanently visible. So it might be harder to do given the extra care it would require to stay within the lines.

[Bawanna]

That looks fantastic! You might also try cutting the vertical lines first. I know with wood one would also think the crossing cuts would be easier but sometimes depending on the wood it's not the case. It's best to do the hard or difficult spots first, then go cross ways second. Did that make a lick of sense?

If the vertical lines are harder to do, (which I always figured they would be even though I have no idea about metal checkering, I would cut those first on a clean slate.

Just my 2 cents, not worth the electronic impulses these computers use to do stuff.

[dao]

Thanks Colonel. I'm hesitant to try the verticals first because while I have the 1/4" by 3" plastic guide for those cuts, I only have the zip ties for the horizontal cuts. And so I'm thinking that it would be harder to keep the horizontal cuts perpendicular to the vertical with only that little bit of zip ties to hold the file against.

I think the primary reason the vertical lines are such a challenge is because the file is hopping over the high spots on the horizontal lines making it harder to keep the file seated. The plastic guide helps alot in keeping the file straight with the frame. Perhaps if I went really lightly in the process of taking a week that I originally thought I'd take it would be easier to do. But this job took me the same amount of time that yesterday's did, so my patience muscle is obviously not getting stronger.

Oh how I'd like to have some garbage frames to experiment with! Not gonna happen though given that as things stand in our state I'd have to jump through too many hoops, and pay too much money to the state in order to buy old, worn out serialized frames for that purpose.

[yqtszhj]

That looks really nice.

[dao]

Thank you Sir

[Bawanna]

What is that in the trigger guard on the 3rd picture? It's a 45 case in something, can't figure it out.

[dao]

It's one of the feet that came with my dishwasher, that I didn't need. A 9mm case fits in it perfectly. I had to drill this one out to get a 45 in it. All plastic so I can stick it through the trigger guard and lean the gun on it without scratching anything. :)

[Bawanna]

Never would have guessed that in about a million years. Like my place, nothing goes to waste, nothing gets tossed although a lot probably should get tossed.

[BirdsThaWord]

No sorry necessary dao! But, your hard work and great results demand it’s own thread here. Your checkering and other improvements have taken those little guns to the next level.
Just a thought… maybe cheap bb guns could be had to practice on? Not sure what the laws are where you live as far as those go.
Does not look like you need practice though. I’d have confidence enough to have you do one for me.
I just noticed, but I like how Tisas undercut that trigger guard :cool:

[kenemoore]

Outstanding!

[Bawanna]

The hard part about raw frames is manufacturers have to account for everyone they make. If they mess up they have to somehow prove it was destroyed. I tried to get some for grip models from several places including Kahr and all apologetically responded that it couldn't be done. I remember many years ago at a gun show a fella had many stripped gun frames, at the time I didn't see the need. I should have bought several.

[dao]

I'm going to touch both of them up when my files get here, and probably put a wider finish line at the top of each front strap.

Something occurred to me this morning Bird, if you have the right jig. I think you could do skip line checkering by just doing one file width, then moving the jib to a stop one line lower as a new starting point, and doing another file width. edit: Now that I think about it though, the skipped line doesn't have vertical lines going through it. So I guess this must be a machined method.

I've tried to find this jig, and I'm on Brownell's waiting list. I think with this it could be done. Though in looking at it more closely now that I've done without it a couple of times, I'm not sure how it could be used to start the vertical lines. I wouldn't want to rely on that thin piece for that. I guess this could be used to get the horizontal lines started and then switch over to the HDPE to start the verticals. I saw another jig somewhere that looked like a large horseshoe magnet, and it clamped over the front strap so that you had the whole width of the jig to use for staring the hori. lines. But it too lacked any kind of stabilization for the vertical lines.

[Bawanna]

I don't know what skip line would look like since your lines are 90 degrees to each other. Your creating squares rather than diamonds. Checkering wood is at an angle determined by how long you want your diamonds to be. I usually go 3-1 or 3 1/2-1. Meaning the diamond is 3 times longer than it is wide if that makes a lick of sense. Way back when they did checker 1-1 so but I never seen skip line like that. Don't mean it isn't there. Remember I don't get out much.

[Armybrat]

Nice skills you guys have developed.
I can’t even file my fingernails properly.

[dao]

Thanks AB!

It doesn't take me long to find my way around. After looking in vain for Bird's "Starting a new polishing project" a couple of days ago, yesterday I happened upon the 1911 forum (where he placed it). I've posted replies in that thread, and forum before but I don't think I've started a thread in it.

Part of the reason I find it hard to remember where things are is that this board doesn't provide the path to a particular post like some do. So I don't really pay attention to where the posts lie. But since my memory is now refreshed concering the 1911 forum, after I've finished touching up the two stainless Officer 1911's I'm going to open a new thread there with before, during, and finished pictures of both, as well any new jobs I attempt will be put in that thread also. Of course that hinges on whether or not I remember where I put the first two. :(

[Bawanna]

You can search for keywords. I never pay attention to which thread or forum stuff is in too. Sometimes I want to add something and gosh durned if I can find where it's at. Since we often get completely off track in some conversations it's easy to get lost. Wouldn't change it for the world. So Birds fooling around with other forums too? I'm hurt, right down to the quick. Show me on the kitchen floor curled up in a fatal position.

[dao]

No, I meant his thread on this board, "Starting a new 1911 polishing project". It's in the 1911 forum here, on this board. :)

https://www.kahrtalk.com/forumdisplay.php?15-1911-Pistols

[jeepster09]

WOW great job! There sure is some great talent here. I guess I will break out my new book and use my skills......

[dao]

Try to stay between the lines Jeep. I cannot.

[BirdsThaWord]

I'm going to touch both of them up when my files get here, and probably put a wider finish line at the top of each front strap.

Something occurred to me this morning Bird, if you have the right jig. I think you could do skip line checkering by just doing one file width, then moving the jib to a stop one line lower as a new starting point, and doing another file width. edit: Now that I think about it though, the skipped line doesn't have vertical lines going through it. So I guess this must be a machined method.

I've tried to find this jig, and I'm on Brownell's waiting list. I think with this it could be done. Though in looking at it more closely now that I've done without it a couple of times, I'm not sure how it could be used to start the vertical lines. I wouldn't want to rely on that thin piece for that. I guess this could be used to get the horizontal lines started and then switch over to the HDPE to start the verticals. I saw another jig somewhere that looked like a large horseshoe magnet, and it clamped over the front strap so that you had the whole width of the jig to use for staring the hori. lines. But it too lacked any kind of stabilization for the vertical lines.
I wonder if they are/aren’t machine made. But, the Colonel may know best. Looking through his Emporium thead the other day, I saw a set of grips he made that were half checkered. If I remember correctly, half of the half was regular checkering and the other was skip line? Colonel, did I see that/say that correct? If so, how in the world did you pull that off? Don’t be holdin out on me & dao. Your secrets are safe with us!

[BirdsThaWord]

You can search for keywords. I never pay attention to which thread or forum stuff is in too. Sometimes I want to add something and gosh durned if I can find where it's at. Since we often get completely off track in some conversations it's easy to get lost. Wouldn't change it for the world. So Birds fooling around with other forums too? I'm hurt, right down to the quick. Show me on the kitchen floor curled up in a fatal position.
Lol! We’ve been together so long. I just had to test stepping out a bit to maybe bring a little excitement back into the relationship. I promise it won’t be anything serious.
By the way, I was thinking about your 1911 grips… If you want to move some to generate some xtra fun funds… I put a few sets on there recently that I had lost love for or just did not need. They sold pretty quickly. The only set of stabilized wood one’s I own currently (still looking for a delivery truck to arrive and thinking it will be soon) I had bought from a small grip maker who puts some up on there every now and then.

[BirdsThaWord]

Thanks AB!

It doesn't take me long to find my way around. After looking in vain for Bird's "Starting a new polishing project" a couple of days ago, yesterday I happened upon the 1911 forum (where he placed it). I've posted replies in that thread, and forum before but I don't think I've started a thread in it.

Part of the reason I find it hard to remember where things are is that this board doesn't provide the path to a particular post like some do. So I don't really pay attention to where the posts lie. But since my memory is now refreshed concering the 1911 forum, after I've finished touching up the two stainless Officer 1911's I'm going to open a new thread there with before, during, and finished pictures of both, as well any new jobs I attempt will be put in that thread also. Of course that hinges on whether or not I remember where I put the first two. :(
I find myself searching the same sometimes as I forget where a certain thread was. Sometimes, if I remember which one of you guys made a certain post, I’ll search under your stuff. (Sppoky! Stalky!)

I think we are a small, tight knit bunch. That and the Colonel does not seem wound to tight like admins on other sights, where if something does not fit exactly into described perimeters then it gets moved, etc. I like that we all can talk back and forth in one anothers posts, sometimes getting off track from the op’s thing he posted about. More organic and fluid to me. Running like that, I think my chi better aligns with my chakra and my zen with my fandango if ya know what I mean. :hippie:

[dao]

Here's a picture I saved of some good looking skip line checkering. Looking at it now, it's different than I remembered. And I'm not sure that could be done by hand. Colonel?

[BirdsThaWord]

^^^^ This!!! Drool!!!

[BirdsThaWord]

By the way dao, due to what I plan to do to the RIA frame, I’ve been watching a lot of vids on youtube in regards to acid etching, electro etching, lasers, etc. A lot of times those guys use a transfer paper to lay down an image on metal, so they are not free handing everything. Maybe a simple grid can be printed on a sheet and transferred to the front strap. Then, if doing this manually, the jig can be moved accordingly so that areas to be skipped are already mapped out with that grid. Just line up your jig with the next applicable mark on the grid and rock on?!?!

Thinking on this, and looking at that skip lined pic you just posted, about a 1/4” wide checkering file would be needed. Is there such a thing? I’ve not researched files, and you obviously have.

[Bawanna]

Here's a picture I saved of some good looking skip line checkering. Looking at it now, it's different than I remembered. And I'm not sure that could be done by hand. Colonel?

Yes that could absolutely be done. You'd need a double wide cutter, imagine somebody must make one. In wood since you cut one line at a time you just just 2 or 3 singles in say 20LPI, then you cut one line 10LPI. Just do that both directions and you got skipline. Since that in the photo had 3 lines in between the skips, it must take a narrower file. Not sure how many lines your file cuts.

[BirdsThaWord]

it must take a narrower file. That’s my thoughts, hence my asking about a 1/4” wide file.
Here’s a new thought… What if I bought checkering files and (slowly, carefully, methodically) removed one or two lines (dremel/file them away, to below the lowest points of the neighboring rows) so that the remaining lines could do their work and not be interfered with by the area where the removed lines were? I think this would work. As one of you guys said, necessity is the mother of invention and I love working things out. I’ve got a lot on my project plate, but may just try this one day. What have I got to lose? A $30 file?

[BirdsThaWord]

Yes that could absolutely be done. You'd need a double wide cutter, imagine somebody must make one. In wood since you cut one line at a time you just just 2 or 3 singles in say 20LPI, then you cut one line 10LPI. Just do that both directions and you got skipline. Since that in the photo had 3 lines in between the skips, it must take a narrower file. Not sure how many lines your file cuts.
I just re-read this. Now I completely understand what you are saying.

[dao]

By the way dao, due to what I plan to do to the RIA frame, I’ve been watching a lot of vids on youtube in regards to acid etching, electro etching, lasers, etc. A lot of times those guys use a transfer paper to lay down an image on metal, so they are not free handing everything. Maybe a simple grid can be printed on a sheet and transferred to the front strap. Then, if doing this manually, the jig can be moved accordingly so that areas to be skipped are already mapped out with that grid. Just line up your jig with the next applicable mark on the grid and rock on?!?!

Thinking on this, and looking at that skip lined pic you just posted, about a 1/4” wide checkering file would be needed. Is there such a thing? I’ve not researched files, and you obviously have.

I don't know. I haven't seen one, but then I stopped looking when I found the two I needed to do what I had in mind.


Yes that could absolutely be done. You'd need a double wide cutter, imagine somebody must make one. In wood since you cut one line at a time you just just 2 or 3 singles in say 20LPI, then you cut one line 10LPI. Just do that both directions and you got skipline. Since that in the photo had 3 lines in between the skips, it must take a narrower file. Not sure how many lines your file cuts.

My 25lpi file is about 3/8" wide. My 30lpi file is about 5/8" wide. Not sure why the difference, but to Bird's point it would not surprise me if there are both narrower and wider files out there. Though given that the idea is to remove metal while cutting grooves in hard steel I doubt that there would be much wider files. I have no idea what widths are available for machine checkering. Wouldn't be surpised though if there are mills that do the entire length of the frontstrap that gets checkered, for the horizontal cuts.Wouldn't need anything wider than a half inch or so to do the verticals by machine I would think. Unless they make a cutter that's radiused to match the typical 1911 frame's front.

[Bawanna]

3/8's wide might be ok, the larger diamonds would be spaced further apart than you photo maybe. I don't know how you would accomplish the wider spacing without a file made to do so, unless maybe you rig up a jig of some sort.

And two demerits for Bird. Not wound too tight? Hmmm. I'm hurt! And remember there's higher ups than me, I actually don't have a clue why they let me stay so "unwound".