K9 wood grip chipped/splintered

[rx7sig]

I noticed earlier this evening, when I was cleaning my K9, that a short piece of the front edge of my right-hand Kahr-branded wood grip is missing. A "splinter", approx 1/8" by 1", from where the checkering begins at the top, down to the semicircular cut-out for the backing plate to the magazine release. I don't know how long this has been missing, but I think this is relatively new. I last shot this pistol this past Sunday during a very short session (two magazines) at my local outdoor range, and previously shot it about a month ago, short range session (four magazines) then, too, but didn't clean it afterward.

Anyone else had, or heard of, this type of issue? Do you think this was caused by something I shouldn't have done?

TIA,
rx7sig

[Bawanna]

Post a picture if you can. Don't see how it would split or crack unless it was dropped just right or something put on top of it just right.

Curious.

[rx7sig]

Post a picture if you can. Don't see how it would split or crack unless it was dropped just right or something put on top of it just right.

Curious.
Thanks. I'll try to upload a photo sometime this weekend.

rx7sig

[FreeMe]

I have a set of K9 wood grips here - bought from Kahr years ago - that the rear portion of the top broke off. Weak grain structure and alignment, IMO. I never bothered to replace it, but kept it around as a pattern to make my own grips from a more suitable wood. I need to get after that this winter...

I just don't think the shape of the grip lends itself well to anything less than the more exotic hardwoods.

[Bawanna]

One of the reasons they put the metal plate in the inside to kind of help that little ear on the back. I put the steel plate in mine also. I used to make a lot of Beretta 92 grips and they were notorious for breaking that back corner off.
Your right good dense wood is the ticket, and the plate is most beneficial as well.
Hopefully as time allows, I'll whittle out some. They are a challenge getting a good fit on the inside but worth it.

[rx7sig]

I have a set of K9 wood grips here - bought from Kahr years ago - that the rear portion of the top broke off. Weak grain structure and alignment, IMO. I never bothered to replace it, but kept it around as a pattern to make my own grips from a more suitable wood. I need to get after that this winter...

I just don't think the shape of the grip lends itself well to anything less than the more exotic hardwoods.

@FreeMe,

The Kahr-branded Hogue checkered wood grips are made from Pau Ferro, which, having Janka hardness = 1,960, is pretty hard.

By way of comparison, [Black] Walnut has Janka Harness = 1,010.

(For my Sig M11-A1, I purchased Hogue checkered word grips made from Cocobolo, which is significantly harder, having Janka Hardness = 2,960.)

rx7sig

[Bawanna]

Cocobolo is one of my favorites. Worked a lot of that stuff in the past. It's hard to get around here these days. I've seen it online but haven't ordered anything YET!

[FreeMe]

@FreeMe,

The Kahr-branded Hogue checkered wood grips are made from Pau Ferro, which, having Janka hardness = 1,960, is pretty hard.

By way of comparison, [Black] Walnut has Janka Harness = 1,010.

(For my Sig M11-A1, I purchased Hogue checkered word grips made from Cocobolo, which is significantly harder, having Janka Hardness = 2,960.)

rx7sig

I picked up a piece of Acacia Koa while in Hawaii, thinking it might make nice grip panels. I wonder where it falls on the hardness scale. And somewhere around here, I have a piece of Ironwood.

[Bawanna]

Ironwood, also call Epay (probably spelled wrong) tough stuff. Used quite a bit of that too. If you work it, be careful not to get a sliver in ya. It hurts like the dickens instantly and even after you get it out, it'll be sore for a while. Even a poke is painful.
It does make a nice grip though.