View Full Version : Bead/Media Blasting MK Frame
xRUSTYx
11-15-2010, 12:52 PM
Hey Guys ...
First post, and new Kahr Arms owner :)
I was lucky enough to pick up a beautiful MK9 yesterday built in 2003. Everything on her is perfect, and she fires each & everytime.
Now on to my question ....
The frame has some *smudge* marks that I can't get out. Tried scrubbing, with no luck. Seeing as the frame looks to be blasted from the factory, would their be any ill effects from redoing it myself?
If anyone has done this, I would love to see pics!
Thanks Guys, and I hope to be a great contributor to this board.
jocko
11-15-2010, 02:16 PM
I am assuming this is the stainless steel slide and also not the dlc finished slide. I would think if you know how to bead blast and did the entire stainless slide that way, it should look like factory when done. Not sure one would want to strip down the gun entirely to just the frame itself, as the trigger pin/system is kinda tricky indeed to get back in right. If they could do the blasting with all internals left alone, I see no reason why it wouldnot look like factory when done, but if Ihad to stript he frame down to do it, for me anyhow, I would leave the sucker alone.
xRUSTYx
11-15-2010, 04:15 PM
thanks jocko!
the slide is PERFECT. Not a single imperfectiong (its the stainless slide btw) The frame is what has the smudges ... noticeable on the backstrap and around the mag release.
wonder if taping the internal parts off (including the trigger) than doing a quick "light" job might do the trick. i'm just afraid of media getting in where it shouldn't be
Bawanna
11-15-2010, 04:37 PM
Should be able to mask it off and blow it out good with a compressor. Have you tried the old steel wool and a bit of oil trick. If it's not blasted too aggresively and most that I've seen aren't you might get that smudge off and not have to resort to the high pressure sand. If it comes out shiney then you'll have to give it a little tactical blasting.
xRUSTYx
11-15-2010, 04:51 PM
interesting Bawanna .... I may try that. Perhaps I should try and get some pictures to post, so you guys can better understand what I am talking about :)
Bawanna
11-15-2010, 04:52 PM
Pictures would be good. We like pictures alot.
jlottmc
11-16-2010, 08:01 AM
I would hesitate to do that, like jocko said, those internals are best left where they are. Having said that if and that would be a big if you need to blast those spots, tape them up six ways from Sunday, and be prepared to be finding media in there for a long time after that. If it were me, I might polish it out, then dull the finish if it were too bright after that, much less mess that way.
xRUSTYx
11-16-2010, 11:11 AM
thanks for the feedback jlott ...
as for polishing .... would you just go with 600/1000/2000 grit sand paper and go about it that way with a polishing wheel (dremmeled) afterwards? What would you do to dull it?
jocko
11-16-2010, 11:26 AM
I would hesitate to do that, like jocko said, those internals are best left where they are. Having said that if and that would be a big if you need to blast those spots, tape them up six ways from Sunday, and be prepared to be finding media in there for a long time after that. If it were me, I might polish it out, then dull the finish if it were too bright after that, much less mess that way.
Nice thing about the all steel versions is that the grips can come off and one can tape things that normally one could never get to. I have no idea how media blasing works, so if one can tape off the internals etc, I would think after the media blast that one could spray clean the internals and be OK.
Course these are defense guns so for me if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Not sure I would use any 600=-2000 grit paper on the frame either, for it u do just one area, it will certainly show. I mean if you wanna grit paper the entire frame, that is OK, but alot of work, for maybe such littlle results. Course if u look at my custom PM9, it certainly is no thing of beauty but it is what I made of it . Damn, I wold want to think if those marks are smudge marks that some type of cleaner would get them off of there to. Photo's would be nice to see no doubt. Just go slowly in what ever decision u make, sometimes one cannot go backwards on some of this stuff.. Always make sure the right side grip is always tight, as the grip is also what holds the trigger bar in its proper place and if the grip screws get alittle loose it can allow the trigger bar to creep some and then you willget light strkes. My K9 with the wood grips was bad about that, so I just wkent back to the factory rubber grips and never had it ever occur again.
koishoes
11-16-2010, 11:32 AM
One question-
Have you tried a hard abrasive (one softer than the steel but harder than anything else)? I was thinking brass or copper, but then again I'd worry the scrubber might impregnate the surface of the steel with residue (copper or brass) and that residue would in turn oxidize. We use to scrub stainless steel motorcycle parts down with copper scrubbies but a few months later sometimes those areas would turn greenish dude to copper residue left behind in the surface of the stainless steel.
ALSO-
If you do go ahead and media blast, I'd spray the frame down (minus grips) with brake cleaner or electrical cleaner as it leaves no oil or other residue behind for the media to get attracted too.
Before you do a glass blast, you might try a lighter media like walnut shells (it does wonders for removing oxidation and stains without removing any surface material). Just my 2 cents. :behindsofa:
jocko
11-16-2010, 11:40 AM
also screw with any media blasting where the grips cover the frame, that way if u screw things up,it won't show
koishoes
11-16-2010, 11:46 AM
Oh yeah, you probably already know this but make sure to tape off the threaded grip screw holes or put screws in them so the threads don't get SCREWED up :p
jlottmc
11-16-2010, 11:52 AM
thanks for the feedback jlott ...
as for polishing .... would you just go with 600/1000/2000 grit sand paper and go about it that way with a polishing wheel (dremmeled) afterwards? What would you do to dull it?
That would be the way to polish it out, for getting a smudge out though you might start with 1000, and then go to 1500, then 2000, that should help you keep the shine down. If you finish with the 2000 grit sand paper, then it should leave a less shiny appearance, use compounds afterwards will put a high shine on. If you do go too far, there are some chemical treatments that you could use, but I find that a wire brush on a Dremmel works pretty well.
xRUSTYx
11-18-2010, 12:46 PM
Here are the pics: (see red circled areas)
So .... what would get these out? Light Sanding? I do have a dremmel and can purchase "special" wire brush wheels etc... if need be. Also read up on a tutorial about how to sandblast then E-Nickel plate ....
See Here: http://vuurwapenblog.com/2009/10/27/electroless-nickel-plating-for-firearms/
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o148/xcashmerex/Firearms/Smudge1.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o148/xcashmerex/Firearms/Smudge2.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o148/xcashmerex/Firearms/Smudge3.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o148/xcashmerex/Firearms/Smudge4.jpg
Bawanna
11-18-2010, 12:58 PM
That front strap is normally not blasted very aggressively if at all, it's near smooth. I'd start with 000 or 0000 and a little oil or maybe even Hoppe's and try it on the front strap. If that doesn't cut it then go to like 320 and finer sandpaper. It will definitely come out, just a matter of how long and how much effort. The steel wool should do the job on those other little spots but you may need to feather it out a bit as you might end up with a little shiney spot which would be nearly as bad as a dark spot.
Be sure to clean good after the steel wool to get all the little bits out. It will rust and you'll be back starting all over. Smoother it gets the less left behind.
Keep us posted on whatever you attempt.
It almost looks like its had a wrap around type grip on that gun and trapped moisture underneath like a handall or something. I'm sure that's what caused the discoloration in the first place.
xRUSTYx
11-18-2010, 01:04 PM
thanks bawanna ...
there is actually a bit of that discoloration (same type) in the trigger guard area as well ...
When you say 000 or 0000 ... what type of sandpaper is that? I know what 320 grit is :) Most people say to start higher up (like 600-1000) and move to 2000 to finish everything up. Are you suggesting starting farther down?
Also, as for the steel wool ... Would that be a steel wool bit for the dremmel or just a hunk of steel wool :)
sorry for all the questions! i just want to beautify her :) haha
Bawanna
11-18-2010, 01:13 PM
thanks bawanna ...
there is actually a bit of that discoloration (same type) in the trigger guard area as well ...
When you say 000 or 0000 ... what type of sandpaper is that? I know what 320 grit is :) Most people say to start higher up (like 600-1000) and move to 2000 to finish everything up. Are you suggesting starting farther down?
Also, as for the steel wool ... Would that be a steel wool bit for the dremmel or just a hunk of steel wool :)
sorry for all the questions! i just want to beautify her :) haha
000 or 0000 is steel wool. It has grit too from the scouring pad in your sink to the 0000 which I think is the finest. I would use a hunk of steel wool not a dremel. A scotchbrite pad which also comes in different grits might do it too. You could also try a steel wire wheel on the dremel and see how that works too. 320 paper is pretty fine and going to finer will just smooth out the 320 more, you'll need to be a bit aggressive at least on the front strap to start and then go for smooth. Unless you plan to polish it I'd see no need to get up to 2000, that's approaching Copper & Black mirror polish which is fine if thats what you want.
Never ever apologize for asking questions, I ask them all the time. Why reinvent the wheel when maybe you can find someone who has been there before. I think Jocko was there when they invented the wheel now that I think about it.
xRUSTYx
11-18-2010, 01:23 PM
000 or 0000 is steel wool. It has grit too from the scouring pad in your sink to the 0000 which I think is the finest. I would use a hunk of steel wool not a dremel. A scotchbrite pad which also comes in different grits might do it too. You could also try a steel wire wheel on the dremel and see how that works too. 320 paper is pretty fine and going to finer will just smooth out the 320 more, you'll need to be a bit aggressive at least on the front strap to start and then go for smooth. Unless you plan to polish it I'd see no need to get up to 2000, that's approaching Copper & Black mirror polish which is fine if thats what you want.
Never ever apologize for asking questions, I ask them all the time. Why reinvent the wheel when maybe you can find someone who has been there before. I think Jocko was there when they invented the wheel now that I think about it.
haha ... sounds good bawanna ...
plan to go to home depot after work and look for steel wool .... might as well get some 320 grit SP while I'm there.
now, as far as Oil or Hoppe's. I use Hoppe's #9 to clean all my firearms .... Would you just use that with the steel wool and scrub like crazy for a few hours while watching TV or something?
Bawanna
11-18-2010, 01:44 PM
haha ... sounds good bawanna ...
plan to go to home depot after work and look for steel wool .... might as well get some 320 grit SP while I'm there.
now, as far as Oil or Hoppe's. I use Hoppe's #9 to clean all my firearms .... Would you just use that with the steel wool and scrub like crazy for a few hours while watching TV or something?
Whats with all the questions? Do I look like the Shell Answer Man? Just tuggin your leg............really.
I'd not spend much time, it should work and show results or it won't. The Hoppe's will work fine or whatever oil you got laying around.
If your hitting home depot you might look for some fine scotchbrite pads along with the steel wool, it's good for lots of stuff, cleaning tools, etc. Even the fine stuff is more aggressive than the fine steel wool.
I also have a can of stainless steel cleaner but it's not very aggresive and doubt it would do you much good.
While your at the depot could you pick me up a couple toilet tank kits, I just replaced both about a year ago and they already are messed up. Save me a trip, if you know a good plumber send him too, I hate plumbing.
xRUSTYx
11-18-2010, 02:04 PM
haha .... talking about toilet tank kits! I need to replace ours too :( those stupid flapper valves suck, and if you don't catch them for a few months, water bills can get a bit outrageous. Something a little $3 dollar flapper valve could have fixed!
anyways .... just went to home depot (i guess one of the beauties of owning your own business -- haha) and this is what i got:
1. 000 steel wool -- huge thing of it for like $3 bucks
2. couple sheets of 320 grit sand paper
3. buffing/polishing kit for the dremmel
so .... plan to give this a shot when I get home. Will remove the grips so I can really get a good feel for the frame and start scrubbing with hoppe's. if I don't see much improvement over 10-15 minutes, I'll move on to the 320 grit sandpaper .... if I don't see much improvement from that, I'll move on to the dremmel - but I'll make sure to start in a spot that is covered by the grips so I don't mess anything up :)
on a side note: bawanna -- did you see that link i posted earlier? the electroless nickel plating? beautiful work ... I have both an old stainless kimber and this MK9 ... If worse comes to worse, I can always try that :) Take the firearms to a gunsmith to completely disassemble, do everything myself with DIY kit for $100 or so buck, then take it back to have him reassemble them :)
Bawanna
11-18-2010, 02:07 PM
haha .... talking about toilet tank kits! I need to replace ours too :( those stupid flapper valves suck, and if you don't catch them for a few months, water bills can get a bit outrageous. Something a little $3 dollar flapper valve could have fixed!
anyways .... just went to home depot (i guess one of the beauties of owning your own business -- haha) and this is what i got:
1. 000 steel wool -- huge thing of it for like $3 bucks
2. couple sheets of 320 grit sand paper
3. buffing/polishing kit for the dremmel
so .... plan to give this a shot when I get home. Will remove the grips so I can really get a good feel for the frame and start scrubbing with hoppe's. if I don't see much improvement over 10-15 minutes, I'll move on to the 320 grit sandpaper .... if I don't see much improvement from that, I'll move on to the dremmel - but I'll make sure to start in a spot that is covered by the grips so I don't mess anything up :)
on a side note: bawanna -- did you see that link i posted earlier? the electroless nickel plating? beautiful work ... I have both an old stainless kimber and this MK9 ... If worse comes to worse, I can always try that :) Take the firearms to a gunsmith to completely disassemble, do everything myself with DIY kit for $100 or so buck, then take it back to have him reassemble them :)
You could very well find a very ugly mess under those grips too. Often times I've removed rubber grips especially that don't get taken off often and nasty, rust corrosion etc rears it's ugly head. Your ready for it if its there and your absolutely correct in that is a great place to test your strategies.
jocko
11-18-2010, 02:21 PM
best place to test what efver your going to work the metal with to , would be under where the grips were, that way u can see if somethng like hoppe's works ok, or if the 320 paper works ok etc, I really think more than likely the 000 wool willbe your best bet to start with. Personally for me 320 grit paper is still alittle course, I would have went with 600 to 1000 auto paper and wet sanded it to boot even. again prior testing unde rthe grip area..
xRUSTYx
11-18-2010, 02:50 PM
i have some 1000 & 2000 grip sand paper at home I use to polish feed ramps, etc.... So, I will give that a shot too .... Will do several small test runs under the grips :)
jocko
11-18-2010, 03:41 PM
ur just not gonna hurt anything with the 1000 and 2000 grit paper. Might have to work alittle longer with that high of grit but also tends to forgive mistakes to..
xRUSTYx
11-22-2010, 01:54 PM
Wellllllll ....
Decided to polish her instead of bead blast her. Left the slide alone, polished the frame & added kahr wood grips (which had to be modded a bit and they still don't fit all that great)
pics coming up this evening. The 2 tone stainless is actually pretty neat IMO.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2025 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.