OldLincoln Makes a Grip Model

[OldLincoln]

I have posted about the extended mag release for my 1911. Even with the extension, STI Button on Wilson Release, I need sculpting of the grip to push it (bad thumb). So I thought about it a bit and decided to make a working model so it would be fitted to my hand.

I've never made a grip before today so try not to be overly critical please. I've never used a Dremmel sanding thingy before either and they are cool except the sandpaper drum falls apart easily.

First is my starting point: (lookin good so far)
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx269/OldLincoln/Misc/Grip3.jpg

After working on it a few hours today, it is very close. You can see the thumb shelf at the far left above the screw. Made a secondary shelf just below the mag release.
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx269/OldLincoln/Misc/ModelGrip3Web.jpg

This one really shows off the grain of this exotic wood. I've always admired grips with finger groves so what the heck.
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx269/OldLincoln/Misc/ModelGrip1Web.jpg

You see hoe the mag release sticks out over the front edge of the grip.
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx269/OldLincoln/Misc/ModelGrip4Web.jpg

This shot emphasizes the finger groves.
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx269/OldLincoln/Misc/ModelGrip2Web.jpg

The grip looks fat as a cow but it's very close in thickness to the original Colt grips. I need s slim grip so got the crazy notion to carve it into the regular size.
.

[ruf45]

Nice job. Thoses grips look prety dang good.

[jlottmc]

That's one thing I love about the 1911, nothing on it is hard. Even a detail stripping and all is simple. I like that part, the simpler it is the better. Maybe that's why this Browning masterpiece celebrates 100 (that's right 100) years of service and shows no signs of letting up. That grip looks pretty good, keep it up.

[OldLincoln]

Took it to the range today and discovered the upper thumb rest just isn't going to work for me. Lower one not good either, so it's on to a redesign and Model #2.

[Pender1]

That's a pretty nice job on the grips, sorry you're having trouble getting a setup that works for you but you're doing a good job at trying.

[OldLincoln]

Thanks for the encouragement Pender. For some reason I normally have to do things twice, once to discover my mistakes, another to correct them. So I am not down about it, I just found 1 way not to make grips - only 999 more to go (hah).

Bawanna saw what I did wrong but was kind enough to say "we can do that thumb rest anyway it needs to be, I can bury that screw so it won't be a problem." He must have realized I based my design on working around a perceived limitation. This time I will design a proper thumb rest that will work. If I fail then it will be the time after this, or the time after that. But it will happen.

[Bawanna]

Thanks for the encouragement Pender. For some reason I normally have to do things twice, once to discover my mistakes, another to correct them. So I am not down about it, I just found 1 way not to make grips - only 999 more to go (hah).

Bawanna saw what I did wrong but was kind enough to say "we can do that thumb rest anyway it needs to be, I can bury that screw so it won't be a problem." He must have realized I based my design on working around a perceived limitation. This time I will design a proper thumb rest that will work. If I fail then it will be the time after this, or the time after that. But it will happen.

Or the time after that, but it will happen. I just love a personal challenge and you obviously do also. Keeps us off the streets and in the sawdust where we belong. I admire your efforts, keep at it, the world is watching.

[OldLincoln]

I never guessed drilling holes could be so exasperating! My Model 2 quickly became Model 5 Grrrr.... First I cut out the piece then marked the drill point with a pencil and drilled. Trying to be so careful I allowed the drill point to walk so that became scrap Model 2. Second try I drilled holes first which turned out well. I drilled them to the screw size and then used a larger bit to set the screw head down into the wood. Well the larger drill bit bit and rammed through. Model 3 Grrr.... I thought I must have been careless and didn't hold the drill back. So I determined to do better this time. Oops Model 4. Grrr.... The next time I drilled the small holes then tried turning the bigger drill by hand which kinda tore the wood. So I finally got the idea to run the drill backwards which made a nice smooth hole but took some pushing and burned more than drilled into the wood.

I needed just a tiny bit more so I pushed harder and split the remaining wood surrounding the hole, not too bad so I thought I'll glue it. I was more careful on the next hole and it turned out great. So, I glued the split piece back and clamped it tight in the vice until tomorrow. So, Model 5 is a possibility.

If I was going to do this more often I would definitely get a small drill press and small belt sander. But that's not likely with the learning curve I have on the reloading stuff.

Can you imagine what this cost with wood at $30 per foot? Take a breath because I got this distinctive wood for $1.65 per 3'. I've tried working with wood before and understand my limitations.

[Bawanna]

I so understand your experience with the drill press. I've ruined so many grips drill those holes or not getting them in the right spot.
It's just a huge series of steps each one a complete project wrecker if you mess up. I've sort of figured out which are the most critical and them holes are high on the list.
I don't know how many I've spent hours and hours working on , shaping sanding checkering etc put a little oil on and fine a huge nasty crack right down the middle. Even a tight crack, but you don't wanna send them off cause someday that crack will open and you have firewood.

I use a dremel in a little drill stand ALOT. Slow and still easy to mess up but so far it's the best I can come up with.

[dusty10]

Keep at it OldLincoln. You get it the way you want. On the drill bit issue. You might try a brad point bit. It will leave a clean perimeter and not have the tendencies to either walk or force feed itself. They are a little harder to use without some type of drill press however. Also, are those fixtures still available that allows you to turn your handheld electric drill into a drill press? It might be an economical way to go for the occasional user.

[Bawanna]

Brad points are the only way to fly as Dusty states. They arent a cure all but they work way better than anything else available.
Thanks for mentioning those, like everything else around here we get accustomed to stuff and don't even think about it, so we forget.
Actually I do that forgetting part more and more lately.......

[OldLincoln]

I completed the next attempt. For this one I decided to do away with the finger groves. It doesn't look as sexy but is easier to model and I suppose to make. Truth is once I held the last model I found the finger groves unnecessary.

Here are the pics:

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx269/OldLincoln/Misc/Grip5-3.jpg


http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx269/OldLincoln/Misc/Grip5-4.jpg

It's very hard to see, but immediately after the mag extension I carved a pocket for the errant bone in my thumb. The picture below shows it somewhat. This is the good thing about custom grips, they are custom.
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx269/OldLincoln/Misc/Grip5-5.jpg

This on shows the fit in the holster. Some here may wonder why the second shelf. It creates a valley for the extended release to protect against accidental release of a mag.
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx269/OldLincoln/Misc/Grip5-2.jpg

[ruf45]

Looks like your getting it figured out. Have yuo shot it yet with the new grip design.

[Bawanna]

When you shoot, you would place your thumb on the top shelf. So the lower shelf is just to protect the mag release from unwanted release as you stated.
You said awhile back that you don't like to shoot with your thumb resting on the thumb safety, did I remember that part right.
I agree ruf45, looks like your getting it.

How about a picture of this thumb too?

[mr surveyor]

I really like those thin profile grips. My hands look more like bear paws with short, stubby fingers, and the thinner the grips, the better for me. I absolutely have to use single stack pistols and short lop revolvers to have proper control. Also, my short stubby fingers are somewhat "bent" at the joints as well as curved (imagine pre-formed to the diameter of a beer can), and first joint on the trigger finger developing a nasty arthritic condition. Individually customized grips are a cool idea for folks with average, or long fingers. The minority of us with "digitally challenged" condition have to really shop around, as we are still at the mercy of the size of the handgun frame. If there was a .44 mag revolver or .50 cal pistol available with a trigger lop I could properly reach, I would jump all over it, but until I get finger extensions (viagra for fingers maybe?), I'll have to stick to the super thin grips on single stacks and small framed revo's.

Who wants to volunteer to build me some custom grips for my Kimber and SP101? :D


surv:)

[Bawanna]

I really like those thin profile grips. My hands look more like bear paws with short, stubby fingers, and the thinner the grips, the better for me. I absolutely have to use single stack pistols and short lop revolvers to have proper control. Also, my short stubby fingers are somewhat "bent" at the joints as well as curved (imagine pre-formed to the diameter of a beer can), and first joint on the trigger finger developing a nasty arthritic condition. Individually customized grips are a cool idea for folks with average, or long fingers. The minority of us with "digitally challenged" condition have to really shop around, as we are still at the mercy of the size of the handgun frame. If there was a .44 mag revolver or .50 cal pistol available with a trigger lop I could properly reach, I would jump all over it, but until I get finger extensions (viagra for fingers maybe?), I'll have to stick to the super thin grips on single stacks and small framed revo's.

Who wants to volunteer to build me some custom grips for my Kimber and SP101? :D


surv:)

I'll do the Kimber for ya, that would take the same as a standard 1911 basically. I don't have a SP101, wait...............scratch that. I have an SP101 in 22 but I think it's the same frame. I think. Guess we need to start a PM conversation to talk wood, specs, inlays. Lets do the Kimber first, way easier than the SP101.

[jlottmc]

Actually, the SP-101 is going to be easier than the Kimber, though I think Surv. needs a solid wood grip, instead of inserts like on the GP-100. The SP-101 is the kid sister to the GP-100. The cool thing about them though is that Ruger uses a solid aluminum pin that I believe is 3/8" in diameter, then a long screw to hold them together. Thing is if you do like Hogue, then you don't have to have a screw going through the grip, you can run a clip and screw into the bottom of the grip, or if you get really froggy, put a threaded lanyard hole there and have a dandy field device. Then again now that I think about it, the Kimber is a standard 1911, and that will make it easy.

[Bawanna]

My SP101 has inserts just like the GP but I figured on whole new all wood grips. Revolvers to me are always a little more challenging get all the outside wood to metal fit perfect. I like "tight" wood to wood and tight wood to metal fit.
Some of the autos Beretta, SIG (you read me ryoung) the challenge is in the inside where nobody sees it but it has to fit.
The nice thing on the insert models is you get the comfort of the rubber grip but the good looks of a nice piece of wood. Still fond of all wood.

[OldLincoln]

Bawanna, You said you wanted thumb pics, I took that to mean my grip and thumb placement, so here are a bunch across 2 posts.

The first is my thumb on the safety and why I don't like that. My hand is too small to effectively hang onto the gun in movement and shooting with my thumb that high. That and it doesn't really like to go there. Any further and it pops out of joint which would be embarrassing in a conflict.
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx269/OldLincoln/Misc/Grip5-14.jpg

The rest of these are just different angles of gripping with some on the thumb shelf and others on the mag release.

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx269/OldLincoln/Misc/Grip5-15.jpg

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx269/OldLincoln/Misc/Grip5-13.jpg

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx269/OldLincoln/Misc/Grip5-09.jpg

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx269/OldLincoln/Misc/Grip5-08.jpg


Mag release in next post.

[OldLincoln]

These are the mag release pics:

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx269/OldLincoln/Misc/Grip5-12.jpg

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx269/OldLincoln/Misc/Grip5-11.jpg



http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx269/OldLincoln/Misc/Grip5-07.jpg

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx269/OldLincoln/Misc/Grip5-06.jpg

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx269/OldLincoln/Misc/Grip5-16.jpg

Well there you are, let me know what you think.

As for the second ridge to protect the inadvertent press of the mag release, yes that's the main purpose. I tried the gun in my holster and the release was pressed sometimes.

It was the first model that I tried and that thumb shelf didn't protect the mag release at all. It came up to but not into the holster and I suspect bending over pushed the holster into the button.

This design uses the thumb shelf as a holster stop so the second shelf may not be required for the holster. However, it would also protect pressing it during handling as you can't just lean up to something or bump it so I would like to keep it, even if modified a bit.

[Bawanna]

Good pics. You got a big thumb, looks some like my fingers, my concern was the space between the top shelf and the thumb safety. That looks workable but you don't have alot of spare room there. Some very minor refinement there will take care of that. I can see why you don't like your thumb on the safety too. Thats not natural for me either but I've been doing it and it seems to be getting better and a bit more natural. Too me it's just different, I'm not accustomed to riding the safety. Not wrong, just different.
From the looks of your fingers those finger grooves on prototype 1 didn't do a whole lot as your fingers aren't on the left grip very much, neither are mine so we're either both normal or both abnormal for what little that might be worth. Is the top shelf/thumbrest forcing your thumb down more than you'd like when your thumb is on the release? Hard to tell, maybe yes, maybe no.
I'm visualizing a little raised area around that mag release but not another full thumb shelf, something you could easily get over with your thumb but still semi protect the release paddle. Working that in my head, not alot of room there to work but I'm ok in small spaces.
Your gaining on it.

[OldLincoln]

When I was in high school, I read a few defensive books and practiced a bit. One drill was to take the gun away from a man with an upward sweep (wax on) of the right hand with a concurrent chop down (wax off, chuckle) with the left. I worked on that with a friend who tried his best to keep me from taking it even knowing I was going to try. [note: this was 50 years ago so no Karate Kid yet].

Given that, try to hold your gun with the thumb over the safety, and with the other hand just push the barrel toward the right if you are right handed. My thumb is extremely weak which may be a factor, but doing that the gun just slips out of my hand. With the thumb on the rest I have as good a grip as I can manage.

I haven't fired it yet with this prototype but the thumb nestles just below the safety and I don't think it will push it on, but have to check it out.

If I had my druthers I would have the leading edge of the thumb rest where it is and the back side a bit lower, but that interferes with the mag release. In the first model I tried a short bench with a flat space between the rest and mag channel at the back end. That doesn't feel right for my thumb so I'll leave it.

While I kind of like the full second shelf as a secondary place for a thumb rest, I shouldn't put it there so that can go. I just don't want any clothing or body parts (mine or anybody else's) pushing the paddle.

I don't know if I managed it but I want the grips to be thin and appropriate checking for grip. The opposite panel can be as plain as you want, just some checking to match.

If you want to mark up a pic or sketch any changes I can do another model. Once the holes are right it doesn't take very long with my soft, cheap wood.

[Bawanna]

Some good viable points on the over the safety thumb. Like I said thats a new concept for me as well and I think I heard of it here from somebody.
I've had my thumb about where yours is on that shelf minus the shelf for a long long time.
I'd like to send down the Lear Jet to pick you up and bring you to the bawanna grip factory and we'll work together on this, unfortunately the Lear Jet got repoed before I even picked it up, and truth be told I couldn't afford a pilots uniform let alone the wages of somebody to fly the thing so guess we'll just have to keep doing what we're doing.
I'm absorbing your input and incorporating it into my master plan, unfortunately the plan is stuck in limbo in my head until I find a little sawdust time which I'm anxious to find and also very theraputic.
Since my van equipment all went kaput yesterday and it's snowing here, tomorrow might just be the day. Wonder if they'll miss me at work? Ya think.

[OldLincoln]

Since my van equipment all went kaput yesterday and it's snowing here, tomorrow might just be the day. Wonder if they'll miss me at work? Ya think.Damn, Bawanna.... Does that mean you have to plow your power chair thru 4 feet of snow uphill both ways? I hope it isn't too serious and you can get it taken care of tomorrow. As for missing you, you know they will. But since you do much of it on the computer can you do it from home?

[Bawanna]

Damn, Bawanna.... Does that mean you have to plow your power chair thru 4 feet of snow uphill both ways? I hope it isn't too serious and you can get it taken care of tomorrow. As for missing you, you know they will. But since you do much of it on the computer can you do it from home?

You must of went to the same school as me. 14 miles, 4 creeks and a river, had to leave my mule on the home side cause it was too deep for him to swim. I pray there won't be no 4ft of snow but it has happened and I was trying to find the pictures of me digging out. Funny watching a guy in a chair shovel snow. Funny to watch not funny to have your pic took. I think they got lost when the camera card crashed.
Never fails, week of Thanksgiving I doubt I'll get it handled but I might luck out. It's a far piece down to the van place 1 1/2 hrs away. That's not good but the place closer flim flammed me so can't go there no more.
I wish I could work from home but most of the computer things I deal with are closely monitored and I doubt I'd ever be able to work from home. That sure would be nice.
They do understand at work that if the roads are bad, I probably won't come, sliding into a ditch is an inconvenience for a normal person, for a person in a chair it's kind of catastrophic and not worth the trip. Been there once or twice.

[OldLincoln]

You may have already, but consider talking with the IT Manager. I worked for an engineering firm that never let any source documents out, and after getting them down from "hell no" to consider the possibilities, I ended up with a Cisco VPN that's like a garden hose (or tunnel) through the internet and into the office. Just something to consider.

[Bawanna]

Well it's a snow day for Bawanna today so I made a little sawdust. I'm about 4 prototypes behind Old Lincoln and had forgotten how tough thumbrest are to make.

Anyhow heres my rough work so far. I'm guessing at best on the mag release paddle since I don't have one. Will probably stay away from that area if I can control myself.

Trying to maintain access to slide release with limited success so far. Kind of making up the tune as I go along.

Thoughts, comments welcome. It's cold here, could be fire wood if I get too much abuse. Kind of sensitive ya know.

[OldLincoln]

Looks good so far, but don't know about functionality of mag press.

I just returned from the range where I tested proto 2. The thumb is pretty much where it belongs but would still prefer a steeper angle. What I really learned is that I can't keep the thumb on the rest as it's cut now.

The cut needs to be truly concave so the thumb actually sits down into it, not resting on top. With each recoil the thumb was pulled off the shelf, even with the weak hand pressing it.

I have a pic of a target grip that shows better although not a good pic angle. One thing it does show which I've discovered is that my thumb needs to be below the top screw to have a chance.
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx269/OldLincoln/Misc/targetgrips2.jpg

I will make a proto 3 in the next few days to get some crazy out of my system and see what develops. Got Jury duty tomorrow which I never get picked to serve, but it takes the day anyway.

Why don't you hold off for a few days. I have to clean my head and tinker some more.

[OldLincoln]

I've sketched and toyed and finally come to the conclusion that the thumb rest has to go. Instead I will focus on a workable yet comfortable paddle guard that will prevent inadvertent mag release should my thumb slide too much.

The problem is that I cannot keep the bad thumb on the rest without it being carved into a "C" wrapping over the top enough that downward pressure will force it deeper into the rest instead of over it. That would require a very tall device and simply isn't worth the effort.

What happens on a flat grip is the meat of the thumb on my weak hand presses under the bad thumb and the rest of the strong thumb is over the top of it. As long as the strong hand is solid, it's all good.

So, Plan (whatever we're up to now) is to guard the paddle leaving a way to press it only deliberately. I will have to retrain the angle of the thumb which I can do now that I can reach the paddle. I spose we can get cute with twin bumps and the paddle but don't want to get banned by posting pics!

I'll whittle some more and practice with it a bit over the next few days. I'll post some pics when ready.

[OldLincoln]

What size drill bits are used for grips? I'm having a tough time drilling. On a 1911 grip tutorial thread, the author say to turn down a 1/4" countersink by a couple 64ths so I get a 1/4" countersink and it's too small without modification. Weird.

Tomorrow I may go the a craft shop and see if they have a modeling clay that I can shape, then bake into very hardness and sand, possibly drill. Now I think I know what direction to go but am tired of screwing up so many blanks.

In words, it looks like a horseshoe bunker with the inside cut to the paddle and the outside falls away gracefully to blend in with the panel.

Of course this means I have to learn a different way of pressing the paddle without changing my grip. I've been laying the side of my thumb along the paddle and pressing sideways which hurts.

The new way is without changing my hand position to raise the thumb and press with the side mid-thumbnail. This feels stronger and still doesn't risk the grip. Just need to make a prototype and practice it.

[OldLincoln]

Here are some very early rough shots of the next prototype:

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx269/OldLincoln/Misc/P1000836.jpg

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx269/OldLincoln/Misc/P1000831.jpg

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx269/OldLincoln/Misc/P1000834.jpg

That's it for now, going to be the rest of the day.

[OldLincoln]

This one is ready to test fire. It feels very nice in the shop so I'm optimistic about it. Please let me know what you think, especially Mr. B.

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx269/OldLincoln/Misc/P1000864.jpg

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx269/OldLincoln/Misc/P1000863.jpg

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx269/OldLincoln/Misc/P1000866.jpg

[Bawanna]

Looks like it might fly. Thats sort of the concept that I was going for with the thumbrest too. I modified the thumbrest and abandoned the mag release protection.
I have another probably weak concept to try. I say take it out to the test and evaluation area and see if it flies.

[OldLincoln]

We FINALLY have a winner! Why is it always the last prototype that is successful? Why never the first?

I'm down to finishing it off, then in the mail it goes with the mag release post and paddle. Mr B, do you have the bottom end of the mag release post? New posts don't come with the spring and lock on the bottom. If yours won't work it's not a big deal as I'll just park the Colt for a while longer. If yours will work. I'll put use my original post.

You were saying you wanted some special wood - don't remember what it was. I spoke with my son and he said the wood he had wasn't suitable for grips. He showed me wood from an eBay store called Appalachian Artisan Wood Co. They have some "Spalted Elm" that is nice but don't know if it's good for grips or anything. They have quite a selection. Please don't think I'm asking for me cause I'm not a show gun guy and whatever you have will be just fine.

Let me know about the mag release post. I should get this in the mail tomorrow.

[Bawanna]

Well I got the original GI mag release in my 1942 Colt or any of my Para's. I'm not sure if those will attach to that paddle or not.
I don't know how those things hook up to be honest. Dang I'm feeling plumb dumb right about now.

[OldLincoln]

Nah, they'll do just fine. The stock post is not drilled and threaded, so you remove the bottom half of it like you're changing the spring, and put that into the one I'll send. then screw on the paddle with the allen wrench included. Trust me, it's easy. Well, except for the part of looking all over for the little spring if it gets away from you.

[Bawanna]

I'm an expert at looking for little springs that jump out when you least expect it. Never much at finding the little buggers but I can look really really good. At Beretta school the class probably spent 30% of our time looking for run away springs.

Teachers rule was look for 5 minutes, if you don't find it, get one out of his parts box. I think lots of extra parts grew legs and walked away from that class.

Perhaps you could send a little california sunshine along with the package, I'm thinking about growing raisins and this Wa weather just ain't making it.

[OldLincoln]

Just occurred to me that you may not need the allen wrench as it's the same size as used for the grip allen screws. Have one?

[Bawanna]

We ain't got much but allen wrenches we got plenty of. No worries there.

[Bawanna]

Old Lincoln, the Eagle has landed. Prototype #5-174-AR*7 arrived intact today. It appears I'll be able to spend some quality time with it tomorrow. The paddle mag release isn't nearly as large in person as it appears in the photos.
I wish I'd known earlier, tonight was our dept christmas party, I got there and found it was in an old mansion type building with lots of stairs and tight spaces. I was in my heavy power chair so I told them I'd go back home and get my light manual. As we got to the van the wife said lets just shine it on, so we went out to dinner, probably was more fun but drank some of the devils kool aid so don't want to be around high speed power tools tonight. I could have got a good start if the bums had told me it was a wheelchair nightmare. I deserve it for not doing a recon myself. Dropped my guard.
Anyhow we're on it.

[Bawanna]

Well I had a little quality bench time yesterday and today after a morning wandering, ha, almost said walking around a gun show. Lots to look at but didn't fall in love with anything I had to have, plus I only had 24 bucks on me so couldn't get in much trouble today.

Here's some pictures of my first prototype for Old Lincolns paddle mag release. Per his design I removed my thumbrest and found that when the grip was shaped it ended up basically creating the little protective dam around the paddle so I think it's protected enough that it won't get hit without purpose.
We may have to add a button or something above to support his wounded thumb but I think with a little grip focus this just might work.
I got a couple passes of checkering on the paddle side and the off side has one pass, so a few more runs to make pretty little diamonds and these babies will be headed to Old Lincoln Land. Ca, no Illinois.

Comments good or especially bad looked forward to. I can handle criticism.
Also a pic of a piece of wood a guy at the gun show gave me. It's called Lace wood, actually changes appearance from different angles, looks kind of like snake wood or leopard wood. We'll see how it is to work with. I suspect it won't like checkering much and will lose it's look. Sad but will look awesome smooth for sure.

[Steve-$]

That's pretty neat.

How do you put the checkering on them?

[mr surveyor]

I bet he don't do it my way......use a framing hammer for trim work:rolleyes:

let's see now..... is it measure twice, cut once or measure once, cut twice... never could get that down, and still to this day, no matter how many times I cut a board, it's still too short


nice work Bawanna.

got any good pictures of that "magic wood". Sounds like it may be on the soft side.


surv

[Bawanna]

It's actually cut with like tiny little file cutters ran back and forth in a sawing motion. Just a series of parallel valleys cut to form diamonds. I do think a waffle face framing hammer would be faster and take a lot less patience.
I read alot and taught myself when I first had a lot of time at home after the ironic framing accident. Still have the hammer too.

I'll take some better pictures of that wood. I suspect it is on the soft side but not too soft. Should make good grips long as they are smooth.

[OldLincoln]

About the wood, when looking at wood on eBay I see some that looks a fragile are stabilized. Does that mean they apply something to make it tough?

[Bawanna]

They actually pump resin or something into it under pressure. It makes it so wood you normally couldn't use you can now use. Punk wood, or soft spots are now solid. It don't crack and usually you don't even need to finish it, just kind of polish it up.

There are places that you can send your wood and they will stabalize it. Most of the wood is knife blanks and just a tad small for pistol grips. I've been trying to find a place that sells slightly larger pieces without success so far. Nothing like spending 15 or 20 hours on a set of grips only to discover a nasty crack and off to the wood stove they go. I sometimes cry.

[DasFriek]

I know you guys are putting alot of different work into this style of 1911 mag release to work with your 1911 grips. But don't forget to test them in a holster thats cinched tight during carry as ive just ran into an issue with my holster hitting my mag release button.
That would be very embarrassing seeing my mag hit the floor in a grocery store and bullets rolling everywhere.
I had to cut a large recess in my holster so the release wouldn't get pushed as easily.
Great job on all the woodwork.
I wished i had the patience for grips like i do hand fitting parts, I can do that for hours.

BTW a set of Bocote slim MK grips would look awesome, But doing those would be very hard compared to the flat slabs of a 1911.

[Bawanna]

Yeah, all the Kahrs are harder on the inside to get a good fit than the outside. I've made several MK and K grips, they are a real challenge to be sure.
I cut my teeth on Beretta 92's which are a nightmare to fit on the inside. Made them for most all the officers here when we carried those. I learned alot of colorful language making those.

Many people dont think about that either. The inside that makes it all fly is what makes or breaks a good set of grips. Sort of like carpet layers, finish carpenters and painters getting all the glory on a new house.
Without the cement guys and the framers none of that stuff even counts.

[jeep45238]

Lookin good - I'm sure these will help out quite a bit on your 1911.

[Bawanna]

Well based on thickness and finding that Old Lincoln has thin grip escuteouns and screws I'm raising the white flag on the first set, I was picking up bad karma. I'll send them along to see what they feel like but I started on phase 2 this morning.
One of my Paras has the short escuteouns and screws but it's an officer model, so I'll make the thickness fit it and all other sizes fit the Colt.
It's a prettier piece of Coco Bolo anyhow, I think the other was Rosewood or even walnut (which can be really pretty too with the right piece) but this one was rather plain.
Anyhow, focus on the patience Old Lincoln, I'm still on it when I get time and they will happen but gonna be a while longer.

[OldLincoln]

Old Lincoln has the patience thing down very well. Used to be the opposite and I still like some things like ME being on time. I'm okay if others run late but expect better of myself. So for me, take your time Bawanna. I haven't even looked at Dad's colt for a couple weeks now.

As for the holster, if the top ridge extends close to the leading edge, the holster hits that and not the button. Bawanna, this pic is what that top ridge should look like. The angle cut into it matches the leather at that point. Ignore the rest of the ridging. The next version has the correct ridging except for that front part (which I simply forgot).

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx269/OldLincoln/Misc/Grip5-3.jpg


The leather is cut at an angle there and being stiff it works out. I tried different things to keep the gun from slipping at that point but no joy. If I tighten the retention screws more it won't draw well.

The paddle isn't an issue, it's the raised post, so any extension that raises the mag release post can be a problem. I'd like to bone that spot a tad higher but don't know anything about leather.