Plated bullets?

[MW surveyor]

So far I've been able to find out that plated bullets fall between cast and FMJ. They are about twice the cost of good hard cast and maybe 1/2 the cost of most premium FMJ or JHP.

Since I'm reloading to save a bit of money (read shoot more). I'm trying to see the advantage of paying basically double for the same round. If I was going to load to magnum pressures and velocities, I could see getting the FMJ or semi-jacketed soft points for my 357, but not paying double for the plated and then having to shoot a reduced load.

Other than the elimination of leading what other advantage to they serve? (I have virtually no leading in any of my pistols shooting the hard cast after finding the "sweet recipe")

[Bawanna]

Many ranges around us no longer allow exposed lead except in 22. Where are you shopping for these?
I got Rainiers from Midway and have now at Tilo's recommendation switched to FMJ from Precision Delta. I'm talking 230 gr 45's.
Very good bullets, about a 100 per 1000. I ordered 2000.
I'd heard stories of long long waits but got mine in about a week.
I used to shoot alot of lead but I don't mess with it anymore. I have to find some good 45 Colt bullets now. I bought a 1000 or so lead for it and now the indoor ranges won't let me shoot em. I'll find another outdoor spot one of these day so they won't go to waste.

[MW surveyor]

There were some Berry's in the Cabela's that I stopped at on the way to work in LA. The in store price was the same as the online price. In 9 mm 125 gr works out to about 0.10 cents per round, so finished round is near 0.15 cents. 38/357 is 0.12 cents per round in 158 grain with a finished cost of near 0.17 cents.

So far the outdoor range I go to have not placed any ban on lead but I'm not too sure about the indoor ranges around here. Never go to them but the way the weather has been lately, if I want to shoot, I'm gonna have to go indoors. One good thing though, I've got a number of rounds of factory FMJ that I stopped shooting when I started reloading.

[Bawanna]

http://www.precisiondelta.com/detail.php?sku=B-9-115-FMJ

They show 115 gr 9mm FMJ for 74$ per 1000. I didn't see it now when I looked but I think theres free shipping when you order a certain amount. Not certain on that.
I know in 45 they were just as cheap or cheaper that the Rainier Plated I'd been using.
I was using the plated HP's thinking in a pinch I could use them for defense but realized I was probably over thinking that aspect so switched to FMJ ball for practice.

[mad1ben2]

Don't mean to post off-topic here, but we're not supposed to shoot lead in polygonal barrels like in the kahrs (non-CW/CM series)... I presume the Berry's plated bullets are fine, right? They are considered like a FMJ from that perspective I think...

[Bawanna]

Don't mean to post off-topic here, but we're not supposed to shoot lead in polygonal barrels like in the kahrs (non-CW/CM series)... I presume the Berry's plated bullets are fine, right? They are considered like a FMJ from that perspective I think...

Your right on topic and your correct. Lead not recommended in polygonal barrels. Many do it anyhow but I don't.
I've tried to find where I read some in depth info about that without success but I recall it wasn't a leading issue but a pressure issue.
Could work fine 1000 times and blow on the 1001. Maybe so, may not so but I don't use much lead anyhow.
Plated bullets are just fine. No exposed lead. Just like a JMJ.

[jfrey]

As I recall Bawanna, the issue arises when you shoot a lot of lead in a Glock barrel and the buildup gets to a point to where it over pressures the barrel by restricting the bore diameter as the bullet tries to pass through it.
What I never understood is what is it about the polygonal rifling that causes this to happen. Why does it tend to catch more lead than conventional rifling?

[Bawanna]

I wondered that very same thing. I know it was a pressure deal, a tighter seal, I thought that it really didn't matter about the build up but it's been awhile. Been trying to find that report whatever it was.
It was a Glock I'm pretty sure they were focused on.

[MW surveyor]

OK guys, I'm shooting a CW9 that has regular lands and grooves. So I don't have to worry about the polygonal rifeling. From what I've heard/read is that the plated will work in polygonal barelled guns so you should be OK. Then again, I've also read in other forums that Glock shooters have been using lead bullets. You've just got to make sure you clean your gun. Remember GOOGLE IS YOUR FRIEND!

Mr. B - That $74 per 1000 looks good with free shipping. I'll go to the web site and check out the other offerings. 1.4 cents more per round is a great price.

Looked at their other items. 7.7 cents for the 125 gr FMJ 9 mm is very good. May just have to give them a call and order up a few 1000 of 9 and some 38/357s.

Thanks

[100percent]

7-8 cents a round is a good price. I have lots of berrys loaded. Hard precast lead is about 5-6 cents. I hope to cast my own and make them for 1.5-3 cents. Have about 200 pounds of shot bullets and other lead alloys. I have found that when you melt down plated bullets you have to crack the nut before you can get the contents out.

[mad1ben2]

Plated bullets are just fine. No exposed lead. Just like a JMJ.


just wanted to be sure...

[BuckeyeBlast]

Are you guys reloading at the same powder levels as FMJ's? I drop down about 5% for plated loads vs FMJ.

[Rubb]

Are you guys reloading at the same powder levels as FMJ's? I drop down about 5% for plated loads vs FMJ.

For 124gr. plated I use 125gr lead data.

[jlottmc]

Why would you alter between lead and plate or for FMJ for that matter?

[Bawanna]

I run the same for plated or FMJ but I reduce alot for lead. Gotta slow that lead down to keep the leading down.
I usually don't shoot lead anymore in my autos and most of the ranges around us no longer allow exposed lead anyhow so my revolvers get mostly jacketed bullets not too.
When I did shoot lead I usually shot a few jacketed bullets at the end to help with the clean up at home.

[mr surveyor]

just a recent personal observation, but the Berry's 9mm rounds are .356 dia rather than .355 dia. I had a hard time loading them with a "Lee Classic Loader" until I violated the Lee "instructions" and flared the case mouth, then did a slight taper crimp to close them up. I still have a couple hundred or so in a box of 250 I bought for about $22 otd...may try them again since figuring out the need for extra flaring. I did a bit of research around the web and found that a lot of folks don't like the fact that plated bullets tend to "flake" and leave residue. Still learning.


surv

[Sliebl]

I saw no residue from the Plated Berry's bullets that I've shot. That would be a full box of 1000 thus far. I also used a very slight flare on the case mouth, but then again, I do that with any bullet (cast, plated, FMJ, JHP) in 9mm or .223 (the only 2 calibers that I reload). This is accomplished with the powder die. How else are you going to get the bullet into the case without it? I'm a fairly new reloader too, but I see this slight flare as a requirement for reloading any bullet.
Someone please correct me if I'm off base here.

[mr surveyor]

flaring the semi-auto rounds is probably the norm for press reloading, but the "Lee Classic Loader" instruction are pretty explicit about not flaring. They do recommend chamfering, but not flaring. I had so much trouble trying to load the .356 plated bullets, I called the Lee people to ask for advise. I was asked first if I read the instructions....uuuhhhh, yes.... and the instructions said do NOT flair .45, .38 super, 9mm. The "customer service" rep then said "if you don't like the kit, just return it" and basically left me kinda stunned. He also said to try flaring anyway..??? Then I started flaring, powdering, seating and taper crimping a batch of Hornady 124 gr XTP's that were flawless, and decided to retry the Berry's. I think they will do fine now with the flare.

Still not sure about the piss-ant instructions Lee tosses in with the Classic Loader though. They leave a lot to the imagination.


surv

[jfrey]

I can't speak for the Lee folks, but my Dillon SDB frares every case when I drop the powder. If you don't flare it a little, when you seat the plated bullet, the case will scrape the plating off the bullet and crush the case. I found this out the hard way when my powder die worked loose and unscrewed a little. You don't want to flare it too much but a little is necessary.

[mr surveyor]

just for the record, the Lee Classic Loader isn't your typical ram press system. All hand tools....just add a mallet. Ever hammered live cartridges together?:D

It's a very compact, low production system....go anywhere style. Everything you need for reloading several calibers will fit into a pretty small tool box, as long as it wll accomodate the mallet and bullet puller.

sorry for the thread drift... just wanted to clarify the tools I was having the plated bullet difficulty with. The standard Lee loading tools do use the same dies as RCBS, Lyman, etc., so I'm sure the plated bullets are not an issue with them.


surv

[MW surveyor]

^^^can't see you^^^

Whoa, forgot about the Lee Classic Loader being a hammer operated reloading "press". That's gotta take some time to reload for pistol rounds.

[Sliebl]

Yep... me too. When you said Lee Classic, I immediately zoned out and figured you had the same Lee Classic Cast press bolted to your bench as I do.
This is the only press that I have used for metallic reloading and it has done a fantastic job for my medium production (in my opinion). 200 rounds per hour of 9mm is fine by me.

[mr surveyor]

actually, I never intended to do pistol rounds with the Lee Classic Loader. My original intent was to build up the "perfect" round for my .243 and possibly do 30-30. I figured the best way to start out learning the particular tools would be with .357 mag. Then, for another 20 bucks, why not get a semi-auto kit to "have around".... the plan was to get the .45 cal so it would at least show a true cost savings for the amount of time spent. I'm kinda glad now that I did screw up and get the 9mm tools since it's caused me to focus a bit more on details. The tapered 9mm cases do seem to have their own set of idiocincracies to deal with and working "hands on" with them has made me realize there are some pretty major differences in cartridge design to be dealt with. For the record, it's not time efficient to hammer out 9mm rounds, but the .357 mag are very rewarding, and the rifle rounds will certainly be. The economics of last two years have forced me to reduce my long time habit of 2 range trips per week to one a month, so I'm obviously not shooting large volumes, and I can keep up with my needs (and budget for components) with the "bug-out bag bullet maker tools" for the time being.

At some time in the future I would like to build a reloading shack out back and work my way up through a couple more generations of tools until I get to a progressive press. I'm a firm believer in starting with as basic a foundation as possible and working through a few generations of the technology before attemptinig the current state of the art.

You guys keep sharing the knowledge....I'm trying to soak it all up:D

Thanks

surv:)

[MW surveyor]

surv,

Just came in from the shed after loading 300 rounds of 9 mm on my Lee cast turret. If you get the funds, try and get one of these as I highly recommend it for loading pistol rounds. However, nothing wrong with my Lee breach lock as I still use the single stage for deprime/sizing and also small work up loads. I'd send it to you if I weren't using it.

A progressive sounds good but in my mind, I'd have to shoot a whole lot of rounds to justify the cost of not just the press but all of the other stuff that goes with it.

I've curtailed my range visits to about 1 to 2 per month depending on my work load. Thing is I shoot the SP 101 one visit and the CW9 or CZ on the other.

[mr surveyor]

MW Surv

Yeah, I started to get the Breach Lock Loader, but dedicated work space is the primary issue. That's the reason I've put off delving into reloading for the last 10-12 years. A couple of buddies finally shamed me into at least getting the Classic Loaders to tinker with. I did understand enough starting out that there were a few other things to add to the "kit".... plastic faced mallet, bullet puller, powder scale, caliper, chamfer tool, flaring tool, manuals, and a few other things along the way. Amazingly, all of the tools will fit into a small box, and takes about five minutes to set up my work area on a layout table in my office, and five minutes to put it away.

The thing that seem attractive about the Breach Lock Loader is the fact that you can leave the dies pre-set in the twist lock bushings in the single stage press, and a half turn changes from one die to the next with no (major) adjustment needed.

I hope that before I'm unable to use it that I will be able to build that 10x14 "bullet barn" behind the house, have a fully decked out progressive set-up, and be able to afford components to make it all worth while. But for now, I'm happy to be able to casually sit and deprime and clean brass one session, re-size, prime and flare the next session, and load in another session.

Cool stuff, if you're anal about safety.


surv

[MW surveyor]

surv,

Even though I made the jump to the turret, I still deprime/resize in one session, reprime on a hand primer while inside, then finish off flaring, powder drop, set bullet and crimp for the last session. I know that I can do all of them during the same session but I like to make sure the cases are clear after depriming any way so my method works for me.

I thought about setting up my reload equipment in my home office/tv room but never did. Built a new shed/workshop about 6 years ago since the garage was getting full. I do not leave my stuff set up on the bench as I have to use the bench for other stuff. I can set up in about 5 minutes and take down in the same amount of time. All the equipment goes into a 3' wide by 4' high storage cabinet with plenty of room left over for bullets, scale, caliper storage, empty brass, my gun cleaning equipment and all of the other stuff.

Any way, hope that you can get your shed built and set up the way you would like.