Has Anyone Modified the Sharp Edge on the Ejection Port?

[El Jimador]

Has Anyone Modified the Sharp Edge on the Ejection Port?

Hi all,

I couldn’t find this topic in the search, so I hope I’m not bringing up a tired old issue.

I love my new-ish PM9. Shoots great, easy to handle, easy to conceal.

However, I’ve noticed that the ejection port has a very sharp edge on it. This edge continually shaves off some of my leather holster. In time, this will kill the holster, but of more immediate concern is that it occasionally hangs up my draw from the holster – unacceptable in the critical moment. It also drops shaved leather bits into the barrel/ejection port area of the gun, but that is not too big of a deal as I clean it frequently.

With some thought during my draw, I can ensure the gun does not rotate forward or laterally, thus keeping the knife-edge from digging in, however, I would like a gun/holster that draws every time whether or not I execute the draw perfectly. To that end, I was wondering if anyone has filed, sanded, or ground down this sharp edge? And if there are any concerns when doing so?

Note: last year there was a thread on the PM9 shaving a kydex holster, but the general solution was to let it shave until it got its fill. I’d rather address the issue directly.

Thanks for any insight in advance,
Jim

[Bawanna]

I'd have no reservations taking a little emery cloth or a fine file and knocking that sharp edge off. Won't hurt a thing. Your guns stainless so your not ruining a finish. The rounded edge may be a little more polished than the rest but should'nt look unsightly.

[jocko]

if your referring to that pointed edge on the ejection port. sometimes some kahrs will develop a burr in that area from the brass casing hitting it upon ejection. One can just file that pointed corner down a tad and then smooth it out and it will hurt nadda, zero, nothing, not a damn thing.

I have never heard of that area before hurtng any holsters or anything but I guess it can happen..

[El Jimador]

Thanks for the license to grind. It's always a bit scary to modify something you love ...but it really does make it yours.

I could have been more clear. The sharp edge is the one circled in this photo.

Jim

[eastenn]

That same edge caused issues with my leather lined Silent Thunder. It created a knot in the leather and would not release the gun. I took my knife and cut that little knot out, then drew the gun several times letting the edge cut the leather out. It will still hang up sometimes so I might end up knocking the edge down some also. Post up some pics after you do it. I wonder if a bevel would look better than rounding it off?

[eastenn]

here's what mine was doing

[DJK11]

That's the reason I like Fobus holsters. Function not fashion.

[OldLincoln]

Now you made me look. My Silent Thunder wants to dig on sharp cormers also unless lifted fairly straight or a little rearward. I found a couple drag marks and also that it was too tight. I polished the drag marks very lightly with 2000 grit and loosened it. Now I want to do something to the drag areas like wax, or what else?

You leather guys can probably help me here. The leather is said to be the finest smooth leather available and oil can ruin it. I want those spots only to be hard and slick. The molded depressions are darker, very slick and very hard, so I suspect the factory did something there, just not long enough or where it wants to drag.

So what would it be guys, and how do I apply it?

[DKD]

Old Lincoln,

Try some Leather Lightning, a commercial grade holster product from Mitch Rosen Holsters. They highly recommend it for all of their holsters internal use maintenance and for holster breakin. It really slicks up the jolster and eazes the draw as well. Give it a try and you will like the outcome.

[El Jimador]

I filed down and then sanded the sharp edge. I just went by feel, filing until the edge felt smooth and not inclined to bite.

The original edge felt more like an axe blade that you've been meaning to sharpen, but keep using anyway. I'm sure with a bit of force I could have cut my skin.

I could have done a prettier job, but what's nicer than working on your belly in low light sitting in the La-Z-boy? Note: I've used the angle of sunlight to emphasize the modification. It is normally mostly unnoticeable.
http://jimcarley.com/Forum-Pix/PM9_Filed_Ejection_Port .JPG

I also stole a page from Jocko's playbook and filed/sanded down the leading edge of my slide stop. The original squared off profile was catching on the upright sweatguard of my holster when I reholstered. It works better now.
http://jimcarley.com/Forum-Pix/PM9_Filed_Leading_Edge_Slide_Stop .JPG

[Bawanna]

You rounded the heck out of that slide stop lever. Bet it works good. Was the ejection port smoothing considered a success also. It looks much smoother with no sharp edge.

[El Jimador]

--- Was the ejection port smoothing considered a success also ---

Yes. While it'll take time to see to what degree it scrapes the holster from now on, it clearly is an immediate improvement as it passes of over the rough spot of leather much better and I haven't had an snagged draw in the 30 times I've practiced since the mod.

[eastenn]

Sounds like success to me. Looks like like you did a good job smoothing it down.

[gb6491]

Nicely done, I especially like the work done on the slide stop:)
Regards,
Greg

[OldLincoln]

No matter how I adjusted the holster retention it dragged, so I wrote Ron Garrett of Garrett Industries who manufacture the holster and sent pics. He replied that he would fix it or I can and gave instructions. I followed his instructions and made a good holster even better. His instructions:

"The easiest way to relieve that problem is to very lightly take a heat gun on low setting to the back of the sweat shield where the lip is formed. Once you have the Kydex softened slightly, pull the Kahr out slightly and press down on the lip with your thumb and that lip will be gone."

Now I can error a little on drawing without a hangup. Draws are faster with less effort. This was a good solution for me, however, if I had a stainless slide i would also smooth those edges a tad just so they don't cut the leather.

[jocko]

what that poster did to the ejection port and slide stop lever is IMO was a very good job. he hurt nothing. the slide stop if he ever gets tired of it he can just buy another one. I think kahrs slide stop levers are bigger than need be but also like this fella did and what I did a few years ago to my PM9, was just to dremel it until I felt it was where I wanted. I dremeled/contoured my entire slide stop lever just not the part he did. I personally like the smaller lever. the port area. some kahrs will in the break in rounds get a slight burr on that ejection port area.that small pointed part of the ejection port. They then think they have something wrong. It is the brass hitting upon ejection and that little pointed area just cannot be strengthy enough to not produce this little burr. Just file it back and smooth it out and shoot some more. It will soon stop, once you get to the area on that ejection port where it is strong enough to "fight" back when the brass hits it. You will really never even notice you took any material off in that area even.

he did a nice job, No one should be afraid of doing what he did. Photos like he posted are just so valuable to understand and see what he did. Words, don't do what photos can do..

If I tell you lady gaga is butt ugly, you might say OK. But if I show you a photo of here, , no words are needed...

Point, game,set, match..

[frank_drebin]

I like it. Well done. Now that you're started you might as well go ahead and give her a complete melt job. Go hit the muzzle next. :)

[frank_drebin]

That's the reason I like Fobus holsters. Function not fashion.

One of the few reasons I dislike Fobus Holsters

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=5224947140792220101#