My homemade CM9 IWB holster

[BEARDOG]

I made a custom leather IWB holster for my new Kahr CM9/ctc laser this past weekend. I usually pocket carry it in a super fly, but wanted to also have a IWB option for it. So after looking for a holster just like I wanted and not finding one, I made this from some scrap leather that I had saved. (the holes you see where already there)

I thought about all the features I wanted in a single clip IWB holster, and made it that way.
It is made rough side out, tuckable, has adj. cant, the clip is offset so it is very thin. I molded it to have good retention, and most of the shape on the front and have a flat back for comfort. It covers the end of the barrel and trigger completely, clears the mag release,has a sweat guard,has a molded sight channel, and It stays open after drawing, and the high front makes re-holstering easy.

It cost $0, and is my first time making a holster from scratch. I am real happy with it considering it is made from scrap leather and sewed together with dental floss:D and using extra parts from other holsters I have.

Now that I have a design that seems to work well, I have the itch to order some good leather and a few tools/supplies and make a few more like this, but better and prettier. I think my LCP,CW9 and G26 would ride real nice in a single clip like this.

Here are a few pics. for your amusement:)
http://i958.photobucket.com/albums/ae70/BeardogV1/P52300433.jpg
http://i958.photobucket.com/albums/ae70/BeardogV1/P523005233.jpg
http://i958.photobucket.com/albums/ae70/BeardogV1/KAHRCM933.jpg

[jocko]

thats just super nice work. well excuted. u have some damn good talent.

[Mr. S]

Very nice work.

[G3709]

Terrific looking holster. Holes can be used for ventilation though.

[bonjorno2]

so when can we place our orders? I have a glock 27/p380 i'd be interested in getting a new suit.

[Willieboy]

Very nice. I like your creative use of dental floss. Who wouldn't accept some dental plaque in exchange for a nice new holster.

[garyb]

Good job. I love to see people do creative things like this with their own hands. I'd be interested to hear your steps to shaping the leather like that. I have made deer antler handle knives with custom fit leather sheaths. I wet the leather and let it dry and shrink around the handle to take a custom shape. Are you willing to share your how you shaped the leather like that? Nice job. Thanks.

[TucsonMTB]

Impressively well molded. The Galco horsehide pocket holster for my PM40, of which I am proud thanks to Ljutic, has similarly impressive wet-molded internal detail.

A couple of minutes with a black permanent marker would probably make the dental floss nearly invisible.

[BEARDOG]

Thank you all for the nice compliments:)

It encourages me, and I intend to buy some leather/supplies so hopefully I will have another one or two to show you soon.

[BEARDOG]

Good job. I love to see people do creative things like this with their own hands. I'd be interested to hear your steps to shaping the leather like that. I have made deer antler handle knives with custom fit leather sheaths. I wet the leather and let it dry and shrink around the handle to take a custom shape. Are you willing to share your how you shaped the leather like that? Nice job. Thanks.

The way I molded it is by wetting the leather, then folding it over the gun, Then with it on a table keeping the gun and the back leather flat, I took a folded up towel and pressed down hard to get started and then with my fingers and some rounded end "tools"(mostly used the rounded back end of a highlighter) and a good bit of grunting! I followed the shapes of the gun pressing down on/around/in them. It would have been easier to have the molding 50/50 front and back, but I wanted it to have a mostly flat back similar to how a crossbreed feels(that is one reason why people think they are so comfy)
I did the molding at the counter in the kitchen as my wife was in the living room and she said "I don't know what you are doing out there but it sure sounds like you are working hard at it":D

[slowpoke]

That's real nice work.
I have a similar holster for my CW40 and love it.

http://kahrtalk.com/picture.php?albumid=65&pictureid=446

[BEARDOG]

Thats a nice holster slowpoke. Does the smooth leather cause any problems with the holster sliding/turning forward?

I made mine rough-out so it had more traction inside the pants. But of coarse they look much better smooth-out. I am going to get some more leather soon and make a smooth-out to see how it works. I have a feeling the pants and belt and steel clip will keep it in place just fine.

[slowpoke]

Thats a nice holster slowpoke. Does the smooth leather cause any problems with the holster sliding/turning forward?

I made mine rough-out so it had more traction inside the pants. But of coarse they look much better smooth-out. I am going to get some more leather soon and make a smooth-out to see how it works. I have a feeling the pants and belt and steel clip will keep it in place just fine.

I'm having no trouble at all with it but like most rear loop/clip holsters it's better pulled with a slight forward motion to keep the holster from turning upward while drawing. I use it with a double layer belt otherwise the clip doesn't get a good hold on the belt. The advantage of the slick side out is that I was able to buff it with bees wax to slow down perspiration moisture. I live in a hot sticky climate.

[garyb]

The way I molded it is by wetting the leather, then folding it over the gun, Then with it on a table keeping the gun and the back leather flat, I took a folded up towel and pressed down hard to get started and then with my fingers and some rounded end "tools"(mostly used the rounded back end of a highlighter) and a good bit of grunting! I followed the shapes of the gun pressing down on/around/in them.

Yep...sounds like the wet down process is the same one I was using. I could not think of any other way other than an elaborate press of some type. Thanks for sharing. I just finished making a mag pouch for my wife's new S&W Bodyguard 380. I could not find anything on the market because the gun is so new. I do my share of leather work and this was a small project. I wet it down to shape and work it to fit the mag precisely. It is drying as I write this. She needs it for a beginner's tactical course she is taking in a couple of weeks. I have a spare mag on order and am keeping my fingers crossed that it will be here in time.

Again, thanks for sharing the info, nice work, and good luck with your future leather projects. It is a fun hobby.

[SCNick]

Real nice job.....good looking holster..... definitely a talent for it !!!

[bonjorno2]

^^^ yup so don't waste it and start making me one for my p380 and g27

[BEARDOG]

Thanks guys, I have been reading leather working forums and learning a lot this past week, and have a shopping list ready for my trip to Tandy tomorrow... I will be making some more stuff soon. :)

Bonjorno, I will give one a shot for my G26 and see how it turns out.

I do have a really functional and unique design (IMHO)... For a leather front pocket mag pouch that I made and have been using for the past month for my CM9 back-up mag. It has been working really well for me. I may make a few up and see if anyone on here is interested in them.

[bonjorno2]

great, thanks and keep me posted on how it turns out!

[slowpoke]

I made mine rough-out so it had more traction inside the pants. But of coarse they look much better smooth-out. I am going to get some more leather soon and make a smooth-out to see how it works. I have a feeling the pants and belt and steel clip will keep it in place just fine.
The only real beef I have with the belt clip is that it scratches the finish of my belt.
The best stuff there is for a rough side out is horse hide because horsehide has a lot of natural oil that slows down moisture from soaking in. Horsehide comes in two types.
Hard Rolled and Soft Rolled.
When I work with horsehide I prefer the Hard Rolled because it makes a stiffer holster but it is much more difficult to mold.
To make a good rough out finish on horsehide I like to sand the flesh side with 100 before putting it together.
Here's some suppliers.
https://www.siegelofca.com/itemdetail.asp?prodid=1152

Haven't tried theses folks yet
http://springfieldleather.com/store/product/24830/Horse-Butt%2C-Short-%26-Wide/

Anyhow:
Have fun, that's what it's all about. .. ;)


PS:
If you have trouble finding something just let me know, chances are I know where to find it

[BEARDOG]

Thank's for the great links, I have been looking on the Springfield site and see some more stuff I would like to have.

Good info on Horsehide, I would like to get some of it to work with too.(I have 2 Crossbreeds made of it) Do you dye or finish/seal the H.H.? If so with what? I bought Resolene, did you ever use it?

I did get up to Tandy, I was able to find a decent piece of 6-7 oz. veg tanned shoulder to work with, and a few tools/supplies. This seems like it could turn into an expensive hobby quick :o

Thanks for offer of help finding stuff! :)

[slowpoke]

Tandy is a great place to get you started but there stuff is way over priced and many of there tools are sub-standard. There leather is nothing to jump up and down about either.
Weaver is where I get most of my stuff but they don't list much on there site so you gota get there catalog.
http://www.weaverleather.com/
For dye I use nothing but "Fiebing's Oil Dye" all the rest is no good for concealment holsters because the stuff bleeds all over your clothing. Don't be tempted to buy the cheep stuff, you'll end up throwing it away with whatever you made with it and maybe your clothing.

Fiebing's Oil Dye
28 bucks at springfield
25 bucks at Tandy
18 bucks at weaver <--- this is who you want to hook up with.

I never use a finish, the stuff can come back to bite you when the piece gets old. It can cause cracking and won't let moisture out.
I buff everything out with bees wax, it looks good and doesn't screw up the leather. It will also get rid of leather squeaks.

For glue, use "Barge". That's the stuff used to glue boot soles on before sewing.

Have fun!!

[slowpoke]

Thank's for the great links, I have been looking on the Springfield site and see some more stuff I would like to have.

Good info on Horsehide, I would like to get some of it to work with too.(I have 2 Crossbreeds made of it) Do you dye or finish/seal the H.H.? If so with what? I bought Resolene, did you ever use it?

I did get up to Tandy, I was able to find a decent piece of 6-7 oz. veg tanned shoulder to work with, and a few tools/supplies. This seems like it could turn into an expensive hobby quick :o

Thanks for offer of help finding stuff! :)
I was just looking at Springfield's horsehide. they don't tell you what size (thickness) it is.

The last stuff I bought was here.
http://zackwhite.com/xcart/product.php?productid=20377&cat=0&page=1
The quality was piss-poor. I bought 5 and threw away 1 1/2 of them.
But it was the only place I could find 6/7 oz. Made some nice small gun holsters from it tho.

As far as "Expensive Hobby" goes.
Don't buy any "Leather Craft Kits" Tandy and most other leather suppliers put together a bunch of useless crap most of which you'll never use. Pick out your tools as you need them, you'll find it to be much cheaper that way.
You'll be able to buy most of what you actually need for what you would pay for a good quality holster. :)

[BEARDOG]

Another interesting link, Thanks, Too bad the last time your H.H. wasn't that great because they seem to say they have some nice size pieces, I guess the next batch could be better???

I agree about the kits, I will just buy or make the tools I really need.

Tools that I bought so far are... A thread spacer with 3 different size stitch wheels, and a pack of needles, waxed nylon thread. And a nylon wheel for burnishing that can be mounted on a drill I thought I would try?
I did get the fiebings dye-USMC black, and the Resolene. Didn't get any bees wax though, I would think that shouldn't be to hard to find.

For glue, I had picked up a small can of Barge, but put it back when I found out it was almost $15! Did you ever use any of the Goop products ? I wonder if they would work well? I think they make a shoe goop.

[slowpoke]

Horsehide is normally hit & miss. Most of it comes from Europe and will depend what quality of horses the French have been eating lately and where it was tanned. .. :banplease:

you may also want to get some stuff for punching the holes before you start sewing.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/department/Tools/Punches/8065-295.aspx
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/search/searchresults/3056-00.aspx
Your guna need an edge beveler.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/department/Tools/8076-296.aspx
#2 should get you started..

And a groover
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/department/Tools/8074-00.aspx
For making stitch lines along the edge of the piece.

I have never tried Goop but I have tried several others and always go back to Barge.

All of this stuff is from the Tandy site because it's easier for me to find. Most of it can had from Weaver but you'll have to download the catalogs and order by phone.

Enjoy! :)

[slowpoke]

See what you did?
You got me started again, made this last night...
rso horsehide




http://kahrtalk.com/picture.php?albumid=65&pictureid=447

[bonjorno2]

That's nice!

[slowpoke]

That's nice!

Thanks!
It still needs a little work on the pattern tho.
The way the reinforcement strap is shaped the stitching is too close to the slide release. Eventually the slide release will eat the stitching. .. :(

[BEARDOG]

That is very nice Slowpoke, love the two tone look! It is tuckable too I see, what's the other side look like?

I also sent you a PM.

[slowpoke]

That is very nice Slowpoke, love the two tone look! It is tuckable too I see, what's the other side look like?

I also sent you a PM.
PM answered.
The other side is the same.
No flubber flap, guna make this holster so it will be reversible L-H & R-H by changing the belt clip / belt loop thingy.
Working on another right now, this one is junk. .. :31:

[BEARDOG]

Well guys I did a little more leather work last night, and now have my second version (The first one has been torn apart and scraped) of my CM9 IWB holster about halfway done and ready for stiching/finishing.
I really like how the molding looks on the smooth side, and now that I have the thread spacer the stitches are going to look good too.

What color do you guys think I should make it? I like it now with no color:), but think a black (almost all my holsters are black) or maybe mohogany may look sharp.

http://i958.photobucket.com/albums/ae70/BeardogV1/KAHRCM91RevBCol.jpg

[slowpoke]

WOW!!
That's beautiful work.
I vote black.
Get ready to start a waiting list. .. :D

[BEARDOG]

You are too kind slowpoke :o...

Since we were talking about finishes I am now questioning the use of that Resolene at all... When you use beeswax do you after dyeing inside and out use the beeswax on the inside/fleshside too? and will that really seal the dye in?

[slowpoke]

If you use the dye I suggested you wont have to seal it. Buffing it out with bees wax doesn't really seal anything it just makes a nice finish and slows down perspiration.
The bees wax is very easy to re apply for periodic maintenance without making a mess out of everything.
It should be noted however that most holsters makers "do" use a spry on finish of some sort but I don't. "Saddle lac" is an easy one to use.
It looks good on a web site or catalog photo but it's pure hell to get back off and it traps moisture inside the holster.

Bees wax -- easy on / easy off . It's been used for thousands of years.

[TucsonMTB]

Everybody does black, so that's probably a safe choice for anyone but me. ;)

Here are two of my favorites. One is un-dyed horsehide. The other is brown leather. I wear them both proudly. :)

http://viewsfromtucson.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/SpeedySpankyFront.jpg

http://home.mindspring.com/%7Ejustsomeguy/KimberBARBQ03.JPG

[Bawanna]

I'm just now stumbling onto this thread and gotta say you guys made some nice looking rigs. Beautiful stuff. Beardog yours would pass muster with a veteran leather worker, simply outstanding for a first time. Very nice.

I made one not worth mentioning attempt at leather work for a knife sheath. Didn't take long to realize that it wasn't my true calling. I'll find one someday if theres enough days.

I'm kind of partial to the way your holster looks as is myself. Natural or tan or whatever you call it. You right there's lots of black ones out there too though.

Like pretty guns its a shame you have to keep a pretty holster covered up all the time. Sort of like chrome valve covers on your car, you know they are there and they are cool to look at but nobody gets to see em.

[slowpoke]

Everybody does black, so that's probably a safe choice for anyone but me. ;)

Here are two of my favorites. One is un-dyed horsehide. The other is brown leather. I wear them both proudly. :)

http://viewsfromtucson.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/SpeedySpankyFront.jpg

http://home.mindspring.com/%7Ejustsomeguy/KimberBARBQ03.JPG
Those are really sharp looking holsters.
Is the 2nd one a cherry/walnut stain combo?

[garyb]

It is amazing how you make that leather take the contours using the wet leather process. It must be the type of leather you are using? You have gotta tell me more about your shaping process. I do leather work and just made my wife a mag pouch, but the countours are nothing close to the work you are doing. Nice stiching too.

As for the color....I prefer black, but your idea to try mohogany might look good too. Heck, just make one of each color! That is the beauty of being handy. It is only the cost of the leather and thread. The time you spend on projects like this is not deducted from your life.

[TucsonMTB]

Those are really sharp looking holsters.
Is the 2nd one a cherry/walnut stain combo?
You have a good eye. That's pretty close. :)

I started with an unfinished Los Vaqueros Saddlery holster and a favorite Fossil brand braided belt that has a nice color and has worn well.

The holster was finished with combination of:
1. Fiebing's "Mahogany" Leather Dye (4 FL. OZ. bottle with an applicator)
2. Fiebing's "Dark Brown" Antique Finish (4 FL. OZ. Jar of a jell-like material with a strong solvent odor)

The colors were applied to the holster, working until they matched the belt, as you see in the picture. The holster probably has a finish coat of Fiebing's "Neutral" Leather Balm with atom wax, but I don't remember for sure.

If I had real talent like you guys, it would not have been necessary to buy the holsters. :)

[BEARDOG]

Well I went with black. I am pretty happy with the way it turned out. I could have done some things better, but for holster#2 I'm happy. I learned a lot from doing it and the input from you guy's is great. Thank's :)

http://i958.photobucket.com/albums/ae70/BeardogV1/KAHRCM92.jpg


TucsonMTB, That color looks great! I do really like that mohogany color on a holster, I will make one that color in the future.

[slowpoke]

You have a good eye. That's pretty close. :)

I started with an unfinished Los Vaqueros Saddlery holster and a favorite Fossil brand braided belt that has a nice color and has worn well.

The holster was finished with combination of:
1. Fiebing's "Mahogany" Leather Dye (4 FL. OZ. bottle with an applicator)
2. Fiebing's "Dark Brown" Antique Finish (4 FL. OZ. Jar of a jell-like material with a strong solvent odor)

The colors were applied to the holster, working until they matched the belt, as you see in the picture. The holster probably has a finish coat of Fiebing's "Neutral" Leather Balm with atom wax, but I don't remember for sure.

If I had real talent like you guys, it would not have been necessary to buy the holsters. :)
Most leather suppliers sell pattern packs.
I think I have the pattern around here somewhere for that holster. It came with several other western patterns including the old style shoulder holster.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/search/searchresults/6031-00.aspx

[Bawanna]

That turned out awesome. Proverbial thing of beauty. Very nice.

How is that on the draw stroke? It looks like a lot of retention or forming in the trigger guard. Does it slip out pretty nice past that. Great for retention.

The molding is phenominal. I think you've found your calling.

[slowpoke]

Well I went with black. I am pretty happy with the way it turned out. I could have done some things better, but for holster#2 I'm happy. I learned a lot from doing it and the input from you guy's is great. Thank's :)

http://i958.photobucket.com/albums/ae70/BeardogV1/KAHRCM92.jpg


TucsonMTB, That color looks great! I do really like that mohogany color on a holster, I will make one that color in the future.

That's a GREAT job.
But now your hooked.
The next thing that will happen is you'll never be satisfied.
You'll keep looking at how to make it better, and then better, and then better, and then better.
I predict you'll go through 2 holsters a week.
It's a sickness that wont go away. But you'll suddenly make a lot of new friends.
So far my CW40 has had 2 rso horsehide holsters this week and I'm eyeballing a few things for the next one.

HAVE FUN!!!

[TucsonMTB]

Well I went with black. I am pretty happy with the way it turned out. I could have done some things better, but for holster#2 I'm happy. I learned a lot from doing it and the input from you guy's is great. Thank's :)

http://i958.photobucket.com/albums/ae70/BeardogV1/KAHRCM92.jpg


TucsonMTB, That color looks great! I do really like that mahogany color on a holster, I will make one that color in the future.
Bawanna's right. The level of detail in your molding is terrific. Your holster looks as nice as any I have seen, including the well established pros.

Thanks for the kind words about the color of mine! :)

[BEARDOG]

Thank you all for the very nice compliments,:)

Bawanna,
The draw seems good now, but it was a bit tighter then I wanted it after I got done stitching it up. It just took some repeated drawing last night to get it "broken in". I think maybe the dye and fininsh may have shrunken it a little???

Slowpoke you are right,
I am just like that too!...I want to make another one soon. I also want to do some OWB and pocket holsters too but have to design them first. Also want to try making some Kydex holsters sometime.
I really have to get back to my reloading first though... I have the all the brass ready, but still have 1000 FMJ 9mm heads that need loaded in it, so I can actually shoot my Kahrs :D

TusconMTB,
Thank you, but I am no pro. I still have much to learn and try my hand at making, but do really like doing stuff like this.

[BEARDOG]

It is amazing how you make that leather take the contours using the wet leather process. It must be the type of leather you are using? You have gotta tell me more about your shaping process. I do leather work and just made my wife a mag pouch, but the countours are nothing close to the work you are doing. Nice stiching too.

As for the color....I prefer black, but your idea to try mohogany might look good too. Heck, just make one of each color! That is the beauty of being handy. It is only the cost of the leather and thread. The time you spend on projects like this is not deducted from your life.

Gary,
I did it just like I did before...I just wet it and let it sit a little, It won't be really wet on the outside, but it is on the inside. I use a some saran wrap loosely over the gun (I mostly do this to protect the Crimson trace laser from any moisture.The Kahr is stainless and poly so I am not to worried about it.) Then put the leather over the gun and just start working it down and around, with my fingers, and when I get it so far I start using my molding "tool" :D (I use a hi-lighter pen, that has a nice smooth, rounded back end). Just follow the edges with it pushing them out/down for more definition. I work at it awhile, It is almost dry till I'm finished. When I have as much detail as I want I stop and let it dry completely. If you are going to do a really molded look, remember to pull the gun in and out as you go or it will be so deep of moldings you won't be able to get the gun out when your finished.

This leather is 6-7oz single shoulder from Tandy. I was told that a shoulder is harder/stiffer then a side as far as working it like this. It did feel pretty stiff And I was a bit worried I wouldn't be able to get good details with it. But once wet it was no problem to use and really stiffens up nice when finished. They are on a good sale at Tandy for only $20.

I bought this helpful tool for the thread hole layout.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/department/Tools/Stitching-Lacing-Tools/8091-00.aspx
I got it so I could have different size stitches, but I think I should have gotten the cheaper single size #5 because it is smaller and would let me get closer to the molded shape without scratching the leather...oh well I will get some smaller head screws for this one and it should be fine.

[slowpoke]

Thank you all for the very nice compliments,:)

Bawanna,
The draw seems good now, but it was a bit tighter then I wanted it after I got done stitching it up. It just took some repeated drawing last night to get it "broken in". I think maybe the dye and fininsh may have shrunken it a little???

Slowpoke you are right,
I am just like that too!...I want to make another one soon. I also want to do some OWB and pocket holsters too but have to design them first. Also want to try making some Kydex holsters sometime.
I really have to get back to my reloading first though... I have the all the brass ready, but still have 1000 FMJ 9mm heads that need loaded in it, so I can actually shoot my Kahrs :D

TusconMTB,
Thank you, but I am no pro. I still have much to learn and try my hand at making, but do really like doing stuff like this.

When you start working with kydex be mindful of the fit. Kydex can be hard on polymer guns.
I messed around with it a little just to experiment but don't see my guns in it. It seems to be the material of choice for a lot of people because it does make for a thinner holster and anyone with a heat gun or hair dryer can get good results. .

[slowpoke]

Everybody does black, so that's probably a safe choice for anyone but me. ;)

Here are two of my favorites. One is un-dyed horsehide. The other is brown leather. I wear them both proudly. :)

http://viewsfromtucson.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/SpeedySpankyFront.jpg

http://home.mindspring.com/%7Ejustsomeguy/KimberBARBQ03.JPG
I forgot to say:
Those are some really sharp 1911s.
One of theses days I need to go through my old clunker. It's a dam good shooter but it looks like it been through hell.

[TucsonMTB]

I forgot to say:
Those are some really sharp 1911s.
One of theses days I need to go through my old clunker. It's a dam good shooter but it looks like it been through hell.
It helps that they are stainless steel. They get more than enough banging around and handling marks, but a few minutes with fine wet-or-dry paper and small scratches and rub marks get healed. ;)

Both the Dan Wesson CBOB and Kimber Stainless Target II pictured were used guns purchased from local sellers. Otherwise, I could never have justified the cost.

If yours is a blued gun, most people feel the inevitable holster and handling marks give the gun a nice character. At my age, I look a little beat-up myself, but my heart is still in the right place, or so I am told. Your faithful sidearm has undoubtedly earned the same affection. Life is good.

Thanks again for the kind words! :D

[Bawanna]

That Cbob should be even prettier about this time tomorrow. I have a feeling.

I'm fortunate at my age I'm not beat up or worn at all. Still the same old modest handsome devil I always was. I expect time to throw a slam dunk on me any minute though. Handsome and good looking just can't last forever.

I do agree that a little genuine wear on a fine old gun just adds tons of character. Genuine honest wear can't be applied as a finish. Many have tried.

[slowpoke]

It helps that they are stainless steel. They get more than enough banging around and handling marks, but a few minutes with fine wet-or-dry paper and small scratches and rub marks get healed. ;)

Both the Dan Wesson CBOB and Kimber Stainless Target II pictured were used guns purchased from local sellers. Otherwise, I could never have justified the cost.

If yours is a blued gun, most people feel the inevitable holster and handling marks give the gun a nice character. At my age, I look a little beat-up myself, but my heart is still in the right place, or so I am told. Your faithful sidearm has undoubtedly earned the same affection. Life is good.

Thanks again for the kind words! :D
Mine is old and stainless, it is a series 80 tho.
And yes it has a "whole lota" character.

[slowpoke]

That Cbob should be even prettier about this time tomorrow. I have a feeling.

I'm fortunate at my age I'm not beat up or worn at all. Still the same old modest handsome devil I always was. I expect time to throw a slam dunk on me any minute though. Handsome and good looking just can't last forever.

I do agree that a little genuine wear on a fine old gun just adds tons of character. Genuine honest wear can't be applied as a finish. Many have tried.
Suppose anybody would pay me to give there 1911 character? .. :D

I was going to put some money into it but now there's this whole new CM9 thing nagging at me. .. :o

[Bawanna]

I do know the feeling. So many toys, so little time. Prioritys change in a moments notice. Wants and desires change with the tides.

I simply expanded my horizons and now I just want them all. Crap that makes me like the anti gunners cept I got different plans.

[jlottmc]

I stayed pretty well quiet on this thread, but I have to say nice hardware. your leather work makes mine look like an abortion. I made a sheath for my multi-tool, crescent wrench, and flashlight, but it just doesn't look good. Works well, but looks not so much. In my defense though, it was the second piece of leather I have ever worked, and I did learn a bunch doing it. Again nice work.
As to the character, as long as it comes honestly, I like some character.

[SkeletonSlinky]

BEARDOG, amazing job on your IWBs...like I said before, you've inspired me! Here's my 1st homemade pocket holster I've been carrying around now for a week or so (after following your lead!). No printing and is very comfortable. Got some great advice for my next one / improve this one from this thread. Question, how do you "finish" the edge like you did? Any suggestions / improvements I should incorporate? Thanks.

[BEARDOG]

That look's fantastic SS! I am impressed...:)

The way I get the edge rounded and smooth, "Burnished" is with a combination of things.

First I use my bench grinder and sandpaper to even and smooth the edges. I put a slight chamfered edge all the way around.

Then I used a burnishing wheel I bought from tandy, It is nylon and basically its a pully. It can be used by hand or put it in a drill... I have to tell you though, I put mine in my 1/4" drill that has a very high RPM, When I got to the double leather edges I actually melted the burnisher LOL!:o ...I just re-dressed it with files and sand paper and then used it by hand and it worked fine.

I used a piece of hardwood dowel rod that really worked well also, I just rubbed it briskly along the edge making that rounded shape on all edges. It is cheap and worked very well for me. You could also chuck a piece up in a drill and with round file make a groove and try that... I may do that next time and see how it works, at least it won't melt;)

I didn't use it yet because I didn't get out to buy any yet... but a little beeswax on the edge as you work it would also be good to try...next time I will use some to see how it works as well.

[SkeletonSlinky]

Thanks for the info and the encouragement, BEARDOG...do you need to wet it before you burnish it or just go over it dry? I think I'll give the dowel idea a try. I think my next one will be and OWB (probably similar to the Desantis Mini Slide) for use in IDPA. I hope to try that in August so I've got some time. I like the beeswax idea so I'll have to go find some of that (at the store, of course, I'm not DIY enough to go raid a beehive!). Thanks again.

[SkeletonSlinky]

By the way, the "washers" I used to put the back panel on are actually cut off 9mm case ends...the primer pocket was pretty much just the right size opening for the bolt...and looks kind-of cool.

[BEARDOG]

Thanks for the info and the encouragement, BEARDOG...do you need to wet it before you burnish it or just go over it dry? I think I'll give the dowel idea a try. I think my next one will be and OWB (probably similar to the Desantis Mini Slide) for use in IDPA. I hope to try that in August so I've got some time. I like the beeswax idea so I'll have to go find some of that (at the store, of course, I'm not DIY enough to go raid a beehive!). Thanks again.

I do the burnishing dry.

I also will be making some OWB holsters for a few of my guns, as well as a front/rear pocket holster for my CM9. I want to get a little thinner leather for my pocket holster before I make it.
I am also working on some other designs but they are all just on paper as of now.

Ahhh... cool use of the brass, I couldn't see exactly what it was, but now I do, nice!

I am told that beeswax is available for candle making at the local craft store.

[SkeletonSlinky]

Yeah, I think the leather I used was maybe 5/6 or 6/7 for my pocket holster...I wanted thin too...cuts down on the bulk. What do you think you'll use for your OWB?

[BEARDOG]

Yeah, I think the leather I used was maybe 5/6 or 6/7 for my pocket holster...I wanted thin too...cuts down on the bulk. What do you think you'll use for your OWB?

I bought a nice size (8+ sq/ft) 6/7 oz.- single shoulder from Tandy and will use it. It makes for a nice stiff holster when molded and finished. I will probable make a "pancake" type OWB so the belt slots/holes will be double leather glued and stitched.

[SkeletonSlinky]

Sounds good...I'll look forward to some pics! Thanks for the info.