CM9 With Blackened Slide?

[carnesee]

Anyone hear any scuttlebutt about Kahr coming out with a blackened slide CM9? Of course, that could take a chunk out of the blackened PM9 market.

[Bill K]

No, haven't heard that but why not? The two tone CM9 appears to be taking a big bite out of the two tone PM9 market.

Bill K.

[jocko]

i seriously doubt if u will see. They never did that with the cw series kahrs, U can hope but IMO it ain't gonna happen.

[enrico]

Anyone hear any scuttlebutt about Kahr coming out with a blackened slide CM9? Of course, that could take a chunk out of the blackened PM9 market.

As JACKO said it's the CW/M line and chances are slim to none that Kahr will have black slides (but never say never). Anyhow, I was thinking of blacken my CM9 slide with ROBAR. I like Cerakoting (coating/ resin) like one of the guys did on this site but I prefer plating due to the detail it maintains due to it's micro plating. So, anybody had good experience with ROBER?

http://www.robarguns.com/additional_finishes.htm

Thanks, E

[jocko]

my choice would be robar

[PaiN]

For less than the cost of a Robar "paint job"....Why not just order a PM9 Black slide and a set of whatever night sights you like? Its less expensive, there's no shipping your gun off for weeks and it'll be great looking with the black with matte stainless accents.
http://www.kahr.com/Parts/Kahr-PM9-Black.asp

[CJB]

I have had EXCELLENT results with the KalGuard K-Kote (GunKote, etc, all the same stuff). The older original formula (still available) is the most durable, but only available in a "near black" dark grey. Its pretty dark.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/bandersnatchreverb/IMG_5251.jpg

Old Remington-Rand slide, but the rest is stainless. I finished the slide and odd parts with K-Kote, a cheap Harbor Freight airbrush, and the ol' ladys oven. Except for the stink while baking, its not bad to work with. HINT: Dont preheat the parts. You can do it or not, but if you choose not to, you can reflow the finish afterwards, and smooth out any lumps or irregularities. The finish air dries like a lacquer, and lacquer thinner will cut it, so smoothing it out with thinner sprayed in a mist works, until its baked, then ya need sandpaper to remove it. Tuff-stuff.

The downside is plastic parts will need to come off and be replaced in order to bake. Sounds like a sight upgrade!

[enrico]

For less than the cost of a Robar "paint job"....Why not just order a PM9 Black slide and a set of whatever night sights you like? Its less expensive, there's no shipping your gun off for weeks and it'll be great looking with the black with matte stainless accents.
http://www.kahr.com/Parts/Kahr-PM9-Black.asp


It crossed my mind believe me, but a black PM9 slide with PM text on the slide with CM9 frame, cheesy right :o? It's $160 for Robar finish and $145 PM9 slide (and potentially I need to run it through the 200 +/- round break-in). I think the cost delta tells me to keep the matched parts so I do not introduce anomalies ;) AND, a CM9 in black is totally unique.

Enrico

[enrico]

I have had EXCELLENT results with the KalGuard K-Kote (GunKote, etc, all the same stuff). The older original formula (still available) is the most durable, but only available in a "near black" dark grey. Its pretty dark.

Old Remington-Rand slide, but the rest is stainless. I finished the slide and odd parts with K-Kote, a cheap Harbor Freight airbrush, and the ol' ladys oven. Except for the stink while baking, its not bad to work with. HINT: Dont preheat the parts. You can do it or not, but if you choose not to, you can reflow the finish afterwards, and smooth out any lumps or irregularities. The finish air dries like a lacquer, and lacquer thinner will cut it, so smoothing it out with thinner sprayed in a mist works, until its baked, then ya need sandpaper to remove it. Tuff-stuff.

The downside is plastic parts will need to come off and be replaced in order to bake. Sounds like a sight upgrade!

CJB, nice piece!

I have a CZ and a Ruger and both have some minor factory paint blemishes and me doing it would be a nightmare if I get it screwed up after seeing those two pistols :faint2:

[Longitude Zero]

Robar Customs will do it for ya.

[CJB]

CJB, nice piece!

I have a CZ and a Ruger and both have some minor factory paint blemishes and me doing it would be a nightmare if I get it screwed up after seeing those two pistols :faint2:

Literally a way to use up parts I had laying about the place. Thanks for the kind words though!

The key to the finish is - like all finishes - preparation. Degrease - I use lacquer thinner and/or naphtha. Get all the little tool marks and such off, if thats gonna bother you. Degrease again. TEST your airbrush. I've got the airbrush, but... a "touch up" size paint gun for automotive would be better. The airbrush is slow, because it lays down such a fine coat.

DONT RUSH

You can build coats here. Thats the key. Spray, let it dry. Keep at it until your coating is uniform. If you get lumps, runs, dust... you can wipe off that part of the finish with a cloth and lacquer thinner, then recoat. Get it all "just so" before baking. Then bake.

Worst case - you got a run you missed, and its baked. OH NOOOooooo! No problem. Or maybe you got a spot thats light, and the finish isn't as dark or such. No problem. Light spots - just degrease, respray, and bake. Runs and lumps and such... uneven finish... just sand out using a small sanding "block". Some 600 paper wrapped on one of those big pink kids erasers works pretty nice for that. Smooth it down, feather a little, respray, bake. Its about as forgiving as you can get really.

[Chowser]

I have three guns done by Robar. All three were basically NP3 jobs. I did have them do their Roguard finish on my slide stop/release levers on my P2000. When I get home, I'll try to take a picture of it. I basically wanted the levers to be black.

Whenever my CM9 gets here and I get it broken in, I plan on sending it out for a cerakote job in black from CCR. Not sure if I want the CM9 barrel done in black or ceraplate or leave stock.
I have a few guns also done by CCR, most are ceraplate, but I did have one gun done in a cerakote finish. I'll post pics later too when I get home.
I have one gun done by Customized Creationz as well in a cerakote finish.

I think the only gun I have stock is my duty weapon :)

HK P2000 .357 (NP3 on all metal parts except slide stop levers which are roguard black)
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/6012/p2000.jpg

HK USP Compact .45 (NP3 on every metal part, my USP Compact .357 is done the same way)
http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/9837/hk454.jpg

Glock 32 with CCR Ceraplate on the slide and Robar NP3 on the barrel (yeah, goofy, I wanted to see exact color contrast between the two)
http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/2570/dsc04727hd5.jpg

[jocko]

chowser: which finish do u like the best Robar or the CCR..

[Chowser]

SIG P226R with CCR's Tritanium finish with house black controls and ceraplate on the barrel
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/736/p226a1.jpg

Glock 19 with CCR ceraplate on the barrel and FDE cerahide on frame
http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/98/p1030378.jpg

left my P239 at work, but here is the picture of his website of my actual gun.

SIG P239 .357 (figure out what my fav caliber is yet?) by Customized Creationz in their brushed stainless with sig black controls.
http://img857.imageshack.us/img857/6379/sigp239brushedstainless.jpg


Between the CCR Ceraplate and Robar NP3, it's kind of a toss up for me. Robar's NP3 is somewhat more slippery when the hands are wet, costs much more than ceraplate, but seems to hold up better against kydex holsters. The ceraplate is not as reflective and is a little easier to rack. Both offer "lubrication not required" qualities (NP3 is nickel-teflon, ceraplate is nickel-boron-nitride), but I still lube my pistols.

Both CLEAN like a breeze. Sometimes, I just wet a patch with some type of CLR and wipe the guns down. NP3 seems to clean a little easier, but both make cleanings quick. If money is no object, I'd be doing NP3 on everything.

But here's the kicker, I've shot over 1000 rounds through my Glock 33 since I had the barrel ceraplated and it shows very little wear.

Granted, my P2000 is a completely different gun than the Glock 33, but I also have over 1000 rounds through it since I had it NP3'd and the barrel shows more wear.

I am not a photographer, but I will see if I can get some decent pics.

Be right back (give me a few minutes, I've been up 27 hours now, want to be careful around the guns :D )

[Chowser]

sorry for double post, not sure of pic limit per post.

top is hk p2000 barrel (NP3)
bottom is glock 33 barrel (ceraplate)

http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/6396/bar1h.jpg

glock 33
http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/6122/bar2sw.jpg

p2000
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/6783/bar3hf.jpg

the red stuff is just lube.

when my kahr gets broken in, it is going to CCR for their house black on the slide, maybe ceraplate II on the barrel. Or my gen4 19 goes in for ceraplate II on slide and barrel.

I'll wait for a Robar sale on the NP3 for my P2000SK (.357).

hmmm....NP3 on the HKs, ceraplate on Glocks, I am seeing a pattern...