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vincent1966
06-01-2011, 06:57 PM
Hi,

Does anyone have any tips (or can point me to a sticky) that explains how to properly prep a firearm for long term storage? Once my TP45 is broken in, it will be my main carry, thus eliminating the need to have some other firearms present.

Thanks,

Vincent1966

Chowser
06-01-2011, 07:08 PM
i have a few safe queens (basically all my .40 caliber pistols). All i did was clean all, lightly lube, and toss some dessicant packs in with them, then close the ammo can.
i figured once the dessicant wears out, the can should be dry enough.

they've been in there for over two years, i haven't checked on them.
i guess i will go look soon.

rwblue01
06-01-2011, 07:12 PM
First, define long term?

Second, are we talking storing a gun in a closet, or are you planning on planting it in the yard?

BuckeyeBlast
06-01-2011, 07:12 PM
Mine are cleaned, lightly oiled on all surfaces, stored hammer down and empty, in a safe with a dri-rod.

rwblue01
06-01-2011, 07:15 PM
Third item, location, location, location?

Those located near the ocean have specific problems.

Bawanna
06-01-2011, 08:36 PM
I really like Du Lite oil for everything but especially for long term storage. It used to be hard to find but after much prodding or just luck it's now readily available at Brownells. It has like a waxing agent so it doesn't run and it will protect against rust for a year. When/if you apply more it replaces the old so it doesn't build up and turn to varnishy scum like some. I use it alot for carry guns and most anything where a good oil is needed.
Obviously those near salt water or damp areas might have to re oil more frequently. Mine are kept in a safe with a golden rod. Springs are relaxed whenever possible, obviously nothing in leather to attract moisture.

Internet Blohard
06-01-2011, 09:22 PM
I use Eezox on my "stored" guns.

http://www.eezox.com/

Best product I have EVER used to inhibit rust. I also use this product on cast iron tablesaw/bandsaw and other tool surfaces in a damp Pacific Northwest coastal environment. Better than any oil, better than Boeshield, better than paste wax

I then place them into a Bore Store storage sock.

http://www.borestores.com/

The BoreStore also inhibits rust by itself as long as the firearm is reasonably well oiled.....I have used these for years in my basement. They also protect the firearm against "storage marks" while in the safe.

CJB
06-01-2011, 09:38 PM
Cleaned, oiled, don't neglect some oil in the bore (and remember to remove it before firing), and Vapor Phase Inhibitor sheets

vincent1966
06-03-2011, 04:57 PM
First, define long term?

Second, are we talking storing a gun in a closet, or are you planning on planting it in the yard?

Hi,

Long term might be for a year or two... Or when a family member wants to go to the range with me and shoot one. They won't be able to lay a hand on my TP45 :).

They will be stored in a safe. Either a full size gun safe or half size safe.

- vincent1966

vincent1966
06-03-2011, 04:59 PM
Third item, location, location, location?

Those located near the ocean have specific problems.

Location for me is near Houston, TX.

-vincent1966

rwblue01
06-03-2011, 05:30 PM
OK, you are in a very humid area and will have the ability to check on the gun at least once a year to be sure that the precautions are working.

My suggestion is to clean the guns and then go with a somewhat heavy oil. If it were me, I would use a synthetic car oil.

The thing with gun oils is that they are a compromise between protection and slick enough to run. A car oil will stay on the gun for a long time. It may be a pain to clean off, but.....

Then put the gun in a box that allows air flow. My grandfather's S&W's box was cardboard. My Glock and Kahr boxes are plastic.

Then make sure you have a golden rod in the safe.

I think you should be good, but it would be smart to check on it every quarter until you know for sure.

Hope this helps.

TucsonMTB
06-03-2011, 06:16 PM
Cleaned, oiled, don't neglect some oil in the bore (and remember to remove it before firing), and Vapor Phase Inhibitor sheets
Hey CJB! On a related topic . . . In normal day-to-day cleaning, how important is that final dry patch when cleaning barrels, anyway?

I tend to run some paper towel wrapped around a tired bronze brush with a few drops of oil applied as a final step after brushing the barrel. I do not usually follow with a dry patch because it doesn't seem like there is much oil in the bore. So far as I can tell, my barrels still look like mirrors inside. Is there some invisible damage likely?

jocko
06-03-2011, 06:55 PM
tucson. My last thing after all cleaning and lubing is I run a oiled patch down the barrel. Just have done it for 50 years, and never seen the barrel fall off the gun, or get any misfires, . Hoppes will tell u to not let their #9 linger a long time in a nickle pated barrel, so I always run an oiled patch after cleaning my barrel.

TucsonMTB
06-03-2011, 07:11 PM
tucson. My last thing after all cleaning and lubing is I run a oiled patch down the barrel. Just have done it for 50 years, and never seen the barrel fall off the gun, or get any misfires, . Hoppes will tell u to not let their #9 linger a long time in a nickle pated barrel, so I always run an oiled patch after cleaning my barrel.
Thanks, Jocko!

I believe that's about what I do. 50 years, huh?! That should be sufficient testing! :D