View Full Version : Bent Slide Stop Spring During Reassembly
Barth
06-07-2011, 09:18 PM
I have this problem and understand I need to be more careful.
My questions are:
The FAQs has an entry -
Q. The slide stop spring on the polymer frame pistols is easily bent.
How do I protect it?
A. Insert your slide stop pin 3/4 of the way at the 4:00 o'clock position and
slowly rotate it to the 3:00 o'clock position before pushing it completely through.
1) Does this apply to the steel guns (MK40) as well?
There is a Take Down Block (Only K Series & E9)
that looks like it would greatly help in reassembly.
2) Is there any way to get a take Down Block that will work with my MK40?
Thanks in advance...
wyntrout
06-07-2011, 11:12 PM
I have a K9 and I remember the design is different from the polymers and the retention is different so not the same problem. Still, I would not try to force the slide lock/pin toward the retention spring/bar... I don't remember exactly what it was, but I have pictures if I can find the link. No luck on the link or my pictures.
As for the block, I looked around and used whatever was handy to hold the slide in place because that recoil spring is a bear! Some kind of block is very helpful, unless you have three hands. :)
Hold the slide so that you can determine what size object that might keep it positioned so you can remove the slide lock/pin. Experiment. I used varying parts of a Sharpie pen and any other object at hand. You can whittle something out of plastic or wood, but it has to be crush resistant to that strong recoil spring and slide/ejection port. You can try sticking something straight down from the top or from the side, since the gaps are different.
I eventually bought one of those blocks from Kahr while I was ordering other stuff and could go up to $50 without increasing the shipping costs.
Lock the slide back and insert your object before letting the slide close slowly on your test "block". This is where using a Sharpie was handy because I held it in my mouth and used my hands to keep the slide from closing as I tried different places to stick the block to leave the proper space for lining up the slide and the frame to remove the slide lock/pin.
Once you determine the proper thickness and position, then you can try to find a better fit or alter something to fit.
Wynn:)
gb6491
06-08-2011, 01:37 AM
...
My questions are:
The FAQs has an entry -
Q. The slide stop spring on the polymer frame pistols is easily bent.
How do I protect it?
A. Insert your slide stop pin 3/4 of the way at the 4:00 o'clock position and
slowly rotate it to the 3:00 o'clock position before pushing it completely through.
1) Does this apply to the steel guns (MK40) as well?
....
Yes, it does apply to the steel frame "MK" series pistols. As Wynn points out the "K" and "T" series (I believe the E9 as well) use a different type spring to retain the slide stop.
You'll need to be careful not to scratch the frame when rotating the slide stop to the 3:00 o'clock position. Once you have the slide stop pin about 3/4 of the way in, give the underside a look to verify it will have enough clearance that it doesn't contact the frame when you rotate it.
Regards,
Greg
ripley16
06-08-2011, 05:35 AM
As Wynn points out the "K" and "T" series (I believe the E9 as well) use a different type spring to retain the slide stop.
For the sake of accuracy;
The T9 does not have the same spring as the K9 and E9. The T9 uses the same odd little triangle shaped spring that the polymer Kahrs use.
I believe the MK series used both styles of spring depending on the caliber. The MK9 has the small "polymer" type spring on the left side, whereas the MK40 has the straight "K series" type spring on the right side of the frame. Very confusing...
gb6491
06-08-2011, 11:19 AM
For the sake of accuracy;
The T9 does not have the same spring as the K9 and E9. The T9 uses the same odd little triangle shaped spring that the polymer Kahrs use.
I believe the MK series used both styles of spring depending on the caliber. The MK9 has the small "polymer" type spring on the left side, whereas the MK40 has the straight "K series" type spring on the right side of the frame. Very confusing...
That's why I should absolutely stick to first hand experience. I haven't seen a T9 or all calibers "MK" series pistols. In my defense, I was referencing the manual and Kahr's website parts illustrations; both sources show the T9 having the same spring as the "K" series pistols, but the individual parts on the website show the curled spring and screw. On the other hand, I have seen a "MK" series pistol and it had the curled spring and screw arraingnment as used on the poly guns. The manual and website (both diagram and individual parts listing) show both calibers using this setup. Thanks for the corrections.
Regards,
Greg
Drats, there is a small inset frame in the manual and on the website illustrations that show the curly spring and screw setup for the T series pistols. I guess i need new glasses as well :(
Bawanna
06-08-2011, 11:22 AM
Indeed my MK has the poly style bent spring and screw setup. I was surprised at that. My K40 has the K style with the spring on the right side. A much stronger and durable set up in my humble opinion.
I was quite dissapointed to see the poly setup on the one T9 that I got to look at. I had assumed it would be like the K. Sure was a nice feeling gun in the hand though.
ripley16
06-08-2011, 11:44 AM
I was quite dissapointed to see the poly setup on the one T9 that I got to look at. I had assumed it would be like the K. Sure was a nice feeling gun in the hand though.
Funny how such different perspectives are possible. I'm of the opposite view in that I prefer the T9 set up to the K9. The T9 is so much easier to work on... no tool needed, faster to disassemble and never a problem. I've often wondered why Kahr uses two different methods to accomplish the same tasks. What is the rationale for the mix, I wonder?
Bawanna
06-08-2011, 12:02 PM
No doubt another one of lifes mysterys. While it is more difficult to get the pin started out on the K's it is otherwise nearly bomb proof. Very difficult to mess it up where the MK and the Poly set up is easily bent or tweeked. I've never had an issue with either set up, maybe I'm just lucky but many have bent them unknowingly. Just seems weak to me.
At the risk of costing a bit more I would put metal inserts everywhere in the poly frame where a screw needs to go. Metal screwed into tupperware just don't make sense to me.
Course I was a menace with steel bolts in aluminum engine blocks too. Bull in the china closet syndrome no doubt.
jocko
06-08-2011, 01:05 PM
I like the K style over any thing else. but that being said the T9 screw, screws into steel.. I see no reason why the poly kahrs do not have this insert to avoid any chances of issues, but that being said, if one is careful the little springhy thing being held into the poly frame with a threaded screw really gives no issues. It is not an area that needs to be taken apart qany more than the trigger mechanisim ,but that little springhy can get bent and cause issues where the K style is dkamnnear bullet proof. U ain't gonna bend that sucker--no how..
wayneo1
06-08-2011, 03:42 PM
I just went to the kahr site and broke my mk9 down according to the little video they have on the subject. When I go through the re assembly instructions It does not say to rotate pin from 4 oclock to 3 oclock. You just put it in and push the pin home. My brain doesnt work well seeing the relationship between the spring and pin. I stare at it and I still really dont get whats happening. Hopefully if I am careful it wont be an issue. So far so good.
jocko
06-08-2011, 03:54 PM
I thought the manual stated it better, I thihnjk. once you get the hang of it,,, it is a no brainer. I have reeplacedmy sprng once in over 32,000 rounds and Ican say the hundreds of times I have had the slide off the gun... Those little springs actually do two distinct things. when one thinks about it, it is an amazing design.
Barth
06-08-2011, 06:37 PM
Talked to kahr and verified that the K40 take down block will not work.
May try to make one myself.
I got a spring kit from Kahr and had my local gunsmith
replace for free. The gun is already broke in with 300 rounds
of HPs. So I'm just going to load it up and carry it. I can rent a K40
for practice at the local range. Shoot all afternoon and not have to clean
the gun! Still love the MK40 though. It's a real shooter. Groups well
and the barrel even stays down during rapid fire. With two extra mags,
18 rounds of 40 makes me feel pretty good! The gun is the perfect size for carry.
A little heavy for sure. But with a reinforced belt its great.
BTW I've tried several reinforced belts and the Galco SB1 is far and away the best I've tried.
I'm just saying.
Anyway, have a great day everybody.
And most of all be safe....
Bawanna
06-08-2011, 06:51 PM
I just went to the kahr site and broke my mk9 down according to the little video they have on the subject. When I go through the re assembly instructions It does not say to rotate pin from 4 oclock to 3 oclock. You just put it in and push the pin home. My brain doesnt work well seeing the relationship between the spring and pin. I stare at it and I still really dont get whats happening. Hopefully if I am careful it wont be an issue. So far so good.
If you look at that spring carefully and ponder it's association with the take down slide lock lever you'll see that it's actually one spring but it acts as two different completely unassociated functions.
The straight part to the left of the screw that holds it in locks the slide lock pin into the gun so it doesn't just fall out. If it gets tweaked or loose thats exactly what happens.
The lose end to the right of the screw actually rides on top of the little notch in the lever to try and keep it down. By inserting the lever at the 4 or 5 oclock position and then rotating it up before the final insertion your insuring that your under that spring and it goes into the corresponding notch.
If the screw holding the spring becomes too loose both functions can be effected and usually your slide won't lock back on empty or it may lock back with bullets left because the spring isn't holding it down.
Sometimes (greg can attest to this) just tightening that screw a little bit to increase the tension makes it all well again.
Kind of a nifty but rather delicate design. That being said people usually don't have any problems with them. I cleaned and played with mine alot before I heard of any of this stuff and was just lucky I didn't mess anything up.
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