Just picked up my new CW45. Got a question please.

[RogerP9fan]

Ordered my CW45 from Buds and picked it up just now. Never held one before and I gotta say...fits VERY nicely.

Question: It is NOWHERE NEAR as tight as my P9 from last year or my CM9 I got earlier this month. Is that typical for the Kahr 45s? It's not hard at all to rack the slide and the slide stop came out by just simply pushing it in with my thumb...first try! I'm not used to this from Kahrs.....everything OK?

Seems like a really nice pistol and can't wait to run it through it's paces. (Tomorrow) :D

[MrToad]

That sounds consistent with what I've experienced with my CW45...pretty easy to rack and, when the slots lined up, could pop out the slide stop with my thumb fairly easily. Easier to rack than my old Sig P230.

Now, my K40 is also fairly easy to rack, but the slide stop is even easier to pop out...the first time I tried it (based on my CW45 experience) shot the thing across the room. Granted the K40 was purchased used so it was broken in and that likely made a difference.

[RogerP9fan]

Thanks for that. How has your CW45 performed on the range so far?

[Bawanna]

I have to use something to get the slide stop out of my K40. A hammer or plastic screwdriver handle, no way I can get it out with my bare hands.

My PM45 I can get out but it's about all I can do with just my hands.

I think your gonna love it. Get out and shoot it and let us know how much.

[Ljutic]

Your CW45 sounds much like mine. I liked my CW45 so much I have a P45 on the way. =)

[RogerP9fan]

Awesome guys. This is REALLY NICE pistol. Hope it's a REALLY NICE shooter.....find out tomorrow. ;)

[jocko]

I have to use something to get the slide stop out of my K40. A hammer or plastic screwdriver handle, no way I can get it out with my bare hands.

My PM45 I can get out but it's about all I can do with just my hands.

I think your gonna love it. Get out and shoot it and let us know how much.

ur K40 slide stop lever and PM slide stop levers are two totally different units the way they lock in. I prefer the K model style alot better, even though it is harder to pop out, u ain't gonna bend anything accidently with the K model levers..:cheer2:

[TheTman]

I'm concerned about how easy the slide stop came out. Mine also came out very easily on my CW45, while it was a lot more difficult to remove the one on my CW40. My CW45 ended up going back to Kahr because the trigger wouldn't reset, fortunately they had it back in my hands one week later, but when they returned it, the slide stop was much harder to remove. The work order states that they replaced the slide stop spring as part of the work they did. I hope you have better luck with your CW45 Roger.

[jocko]

the slide stop spring actually does two distinct things, actually an ingenious design, even though I personally don't like it, it works great.

When one looks at his slide stop lever by the flat portion of the slide stop lever where the pin enters the lever, u will see a groove all around that pin. that is where the back side of that little springhy thing should lock into. That is what actually keeps that slide stop from drifing out. If the spring is bent, weak, or out of whack, then that lever can come out. The end tip of the little springhy as we all know is what moves the slide stop lever up and down, also if that is out of whack or bent or what ever, u can get pre mature slide stop or no slide stop at all. A very ingenious little spring when you study how it is designed to do what and how..

[RogerP9fan]

I'm concerned about how easy the slide stop came out. Mine also came out very easily on my CW45, while it was a lot more difficult to remove the one on my CW40. My CW45 ended up going back to Kahr because the trigger wouldn't reset, fortunately they had it back in my hands one week later, but when they returned it, the slide stop was much harder to remove. The work order states that they replaced the slide stop spring as part of the work they did. I hope you have better luck with your CW45 Roger.Good to know, thanks for sharing that.

[RogerP9fan]

the slide stop spring actually does two distinct things, actually an ingenious design, even though I personally don't like it, it works great.

When one looks at his slide stop lever by the flat portion of the slide stop lever where the pin enters the lever, u will see a groove all around that pin. that is where the back side of that little springhy thing should lock into. That is what actually keeps that slide stop from drifing out. If the spring is bent, weak, or out of whack, then that lever can come out. The end tip of the little springhy as we all know is what moves the slide stop lever up and down, also if that is out of whack or bent or what ever, u can get pre mature slide stop or no slide stop at all. A very ingenious little spring when you study how it is designed to do what and how..Very interesting. Those little parts have a big importance.

[Bawanna]

If you have issues and lets not predict issues before they happen but if they do the first thing I'd do is snug the screw that holds that spring in place down just a bit. Don't want to strip it out but it might just not be quite tight enough to put enough pressure on the spring.

I believe Greg GB solved an issue by doing this very thing. If the pin comes out very easy it might even pay to snug it down some prior to shooting it. Go easy on it, no time for the bull in the china closet syndrome.

[jocko]

if u over tighten even thoug u don'tstrip the threads out of the polymre, u can over tighten it to the point tha tthe spri9nghy doesn't work freely. The little screw and cupped washer really jus thold that spring in place, not actually forcefully hold that spring in place if u get my point. That sprng has to work freely.. for the front and back portion of that spring to work correctly..

[jocko]

if u over tighten even though u don't strip the threads out of the polymer, u can over tighten it to the point that the springhy doesn't work freely. The little screw and cupped washer really just hold that spring in place, not actually forcefully hold that spring in place if u get my point. That sprng has to work freely.. for the front and back portion of that spring to work correctly..

[Sambo]

my cw45 was really tight when I got it from buds, after 1000 rounds and greasing of the slide rails after every outing, the pistol has still loosenedd up quite a bit. It now has slight side to side play, but it really loosened up vertically in the front. When the gun is dry fired I can watch the front sight drop as the striker tension is released. The gun continues to perform flawlessly, even with my 200 lswc handloads, so I just keep on shooting without worry. My slide stop comes out just as easily as yours but has never popped out on me. I'm curious to see how long the pistol lasts. I see no visible wear on the slide rails, so i'm curious where the slop develops from.

Sambo

[Sambo]

Jocko... I just noticed your signature. Do you really have that many rounds through your pm9? Has it loosened up on you? Any visible slide rail wear?

[Cornel]

My CW45 was also tight. I could not remove the slide stop with my hands/fingers only. It was later when the slide stop spring became loose that the slide stop started popping out and causing FTRB.

I tighted the slide stop screw and everything when back to work properly. I did put some Medium locktite on the threads of the screw to help avoid becoming loose again. Now I can hear a nice click sound when I put back the slide stop into its position and I also need to push it out hard when I need to take it out for cleaning.

So go and shoot it and see how it goes. Just in case, you'll need a T6 wrench for that slide stop screw.

Enjoy!

[RogerP9fan]

Very helpful guys. It's good to know all this. Well, I just broke 'er down again to take a look and man, that is a tiny little screw. Anybody know where such a special wrench like that can be found?
Bawanna, your point is well taken my friend, lol, I don't wanna anticipate issues. All along, all I've wanted was a nice good running Kahr. Now, I want two. :D:D
I've begun shooting the way most recommend anyway with the "two thumbs forward" grip. I find everything has improved, accuracy, comfort...Incidentally, my left thumb rests on the slide stop right where it pivets so this is a good way to ensure my slide stop doesn't come flying out! :eek:
J/K Ain't gonna help me much in one handed drills. ;)

[jocko]

sears sells the tool for the P380 u need a size 5 torx, for all other polymer a size 6 torx.

Just remember u SNUG that screw, don'ttry to tigthten what actually cannot be tightened, or u will be looking at a new frame, although we have fixes for a stripped screw THAT WORK.

In over 32,000 rounds I finally about 3 motths ago ha dto replace my slide lock spring in my PM9, I think in allthe take cowns which has to be well over 250 that I finally got that little screw outta whack. Up to that point I had never fokked with that little screw. I love the "If it ain't broke don't fix it theory". ayway I followed GB6491 photo tutorial in the kahr tech section under CW45 fixes and all is well again. It lookis fragile in that area and basically it is , if ur gonna fokk with it all the time but just leave the dame screw alone, be mindful how u insert the slide lock lever and more than likely u will never have to replace or mess witha that little screw and spring..

[Bill K]

Oh, here we go again... Another .45 ACP thread to put on my Not To Follow list. :)

[Best of luck with your new Kahr]

[jlottmc]

Bill, just break down and get that 45. If it helps my P45 and the Wife's CW45 are perfect, and sweet shooters. In fact I need to take them and some of the others out and play with them. I need to shoot my commander as well now that I think about it.

[Bawanna]

Oh, here we go again... Another .45 ACP thread to put on my Not To Follow list. :)

[Best of luck with your new Kahr]

Its really no different than any of the tupperware versions. Same exact rules apply.

You said no 45 in your future so I'm gonna respect your plan and not pressure. The 45 speaks for itself and has a luring effect like no other. I hope your will power is strong. We're there for you if you need councilling when the urges strike.

[RogerP9fan]

REAL DISAPPOINTMENT. I'll start from the beginning. Last night after breaking it down to look at the little slide stop screw then putting it back together I did a function check. Checked good. Then I pulled the slide back and locked it opened and then Released the slide stop while holding the slide. I then pulled the trigger and it wasn't catching. A dead trigger. Exactly like my P9 last year. Everytime I'd rack the slide quickly without locking it back the trigger worked fine.

At the range today, I locked back the slide, put in a full magazine, hit the slide stop, aimed and pulled the trigger. The trigger just clicked a little bit and pulled back with no regular tension. No bang. The trigger mechanism is just not catching where it needs to catch to fire the gun.

I had this EXACT same problem last year with my P9 but it was after a flawless 200 break-in rounds and I then started practicing with a 7+1 set-up. That's when this "trigger failing to reset happened multiple times"

I sent it to Kahr and they replaced the trigger bar but it was never right. I could still feel the trigger like it was not catching and I'd have to release pressure on it to "catch" and then pull it back again and then bang. This was just not acceptable to me.

It's very disappointing to have this same type of trigger failure before even firing my new CW45.

[joeyvco]

Actually, I was suprised @ how tight everything on my CW45 was ! The mags were brutal to load, the slide tore my hands to hell doing the " rack & rack " procedure prior to firing, the slide stop pin was a pain in the arse to get out, & a pain to drop the slide with. For sure a BIG difference from my Colt MKIV series 70 1911. But . . . . went to the range & shot the snot out of it & AWSOMENESS ensued ! Shot 200 rounds of 230 gr FMJ's & a dozen or so Remington hollow points @ 185 gr I use for carry in it & It is smoothing out nicely, still sucks putting the last round or so in the mags, but break down is almost as easy as my 1911 now. By the way it never missed a beat @ the range ! I am very happy with mine, I hope you have the same results ! P. S. CLEAN IT BEFORE you go shoot it, mine was quite dirty ! ENJOY !

[Bawanna]

I'd have to release pressure on it to "catch" and then pull it back again and then bang. This was just not acceptable to me.

Roger, what do you mean by this. Releasing all the way to let it reset or just a little bit.

That's one thing that frustrates many on kahrs and some others is the horrible lone reset. You gotta let it go all the way and then start over.
If your locking the slide open, inserting a mag, releasing the slide and you got nothing, then you got a trigger bar or spring issue.
Dang it all to heck, I'm just sick about this. I was so hoping you'd have a runner after your lousey experience last year with that P9.

[RogerP9fan]

It's frustrating but I'm not giving up this time.

[CJB]

All the reports of trigger bar problems make me wonder if they are actually having trigger bar malfunction problems, or problems that make the trigger bar malfunction. Huh? Wha?

What I mean is: Are the bars themselves a problem, or... is something else making the bars not function correctly.

Since the pistols are shot at the factory, and clearly they are, since they're filthy as taken from the box (new), you gotta think that the guns worked at least for a while. So what happened? I'm wondering of maybe a shred of flashing on the poly frame gets in the way, or the trigger itself isn't fully resetting due to some stray plastic, or something like that, in which case, pulling the sideplate, identifying and correcting the issue might be a possible alternative to sending the pistols back to Kahr.

I cant resolve trigger bars being that variable. Its a stamped item, they ought to be as regular as pensioners on prune juice. Its the frame that seems like it would have more variation due to the molding process, and finishing of stray flash and odd bits of shavings.

I dunno, thats my 2c on it at least.

[RogerP9fan]

It's a strange feeling to pull the trigger and it clicks a little and then moves back without the correct tension or abiliity to fire the pistol.
This is what I experienced last year with my P9. Kahr replaced the trigger bar and I no longer experienced the above described. What I did experience though was the feeling that the trigger was not going to engage again with the internal mechanisms so I slightly released the trigger back to it's origin and pulled again and then it would engage, have the correct tension and go bang. So, you see, it still wasn't right. i felt like i had to "wiggle the trigger" or slightly move it forward and backwards to get the internals to engage properly. This is why I'm disappointed about my CW45...because if they replace the trigger bar, I just may get it back like my P9 as described above. Not good.

This is not an issue of me not understanding the Kahr long reset and the necessity to allow the trigger to fully return to it's origin prior to pulling off the next shot. This is how my Ruger LCR and other revolvers in the past work, I had no problems.

BTW, my little CM9 trigger works fine, no problems in this area. Very pleased. Still had the "early slide lock open issue twice today with my second 100 round box of WWB (but I know this issue is more easily resolved)

[RogerP9fan]

All the reports of trigger bar problems make me wonder if they are actually having trigger bar malfunction problems, or problems that make the trigger bar malfunction. Huh? Wha?

What I mean is: Are the bars themselves a problem, or... is something else making the bars not function correctly.

Since the pistols are shot at the factory, and clearly they are, since they're filthy as taken from the box (new), you gotta think that the guns worked at least for a while. So what happened? I'm wondering of maybe a shred of flashing on the poly frame gets in the way, or the trigger itself isn't fully resetting due to some stray plastic, or something like that, in which case, pulling the sideplate, identifying and correcting the issue might be a possible alternative to sending the pistols back to Kahr.

I cant resolve trigger bars being that variable. Its a stamped item, they ought to be as regular as pensioners on prune juice. Its the frame that seems like it would have more variation due to the molding process, and finishing of stray flash and odd bits of shavings.

I dunno, thats my 2c on it at least.Very interesting points you raise. Hopefully, we'll see what the others think about your ideas. Perhaps you're really on to something. As you can see from my above posting, even after Kahr replaced the trigger bar in my P9, it still wasn't right. Does that imply there is something else that's off? It does seem odd that there are many with great Kahrs and also many with issues.

Another thing that was immediately obvious and different about this CW45 compared to the old P9 and CM9 is that the CW45 trigger pull is DRAMATICALLY lighter. Instead of the 6-7 lbs of the 9mms this CW45 feels like about half that. Is that normal?

[lostagain]

I havn't read the whole thread to see if this was done or not but I had junk in the striker channel of my CW9, I think from the factory. It caused some fireing problems for me. I flushed the channel by spraying cleaner in the little hole in the slide, barrel end up and worked the striker spring at the same time. After getting the crude out I have never had another issue since.

[RogerP9fan]

Thanks for your input. My problem is with the trigger bar I guess....don't know if having junk in the striker channel could cause the trigger to just not engage internally.

[CJB]

What I did experience though was the feeling that the trigger was not going to engage again with the internal mechanisms so I slightly released the trigger back to it's origin and pulled again and then it would engage, have the correct tension and go bang.

With and empty pistol, no magazine in it, rack the slide with the trigger held back. Try to dry fire. If you get that "mushy" feeling or it misfires or isn't right, then repeat the procedure, but this time, when releasing the trigger to reset it, push it forward just a little with your finger before testing it.

I'm curious to see what happens.

[RogerP9fan]

Interesting test. Ran it, the trigger works fine. It resets OK everytime right where it's supposed to.
Don't want to run the risk of upsetting other members because again, this IS NOT how I shoot Kahrs. I know not to shoot using the trigger reset. I pull and release fully everytime on the range.
But for purposes of this test, all went well. No need to push forward a little with my finger or anything.
The gun seems totally normal right now dry firng away.
Hmmmmmmm, let me go for real firing tomorrow. I gotta get to bottom of this, make sure I'm not going crazy. :eek:

[jlottmc]

Take that top end down (remember the little coat hanger tool), clean that striker channel out, then ensure that the side plate on the frame is snug (DO NOT over-tighten) then go shoo that CW45 like you stole it.

[RogerP9fan]

Another thing I noticed that's different about the CW45.
When the gun is in the normal firing position, but unloaded of course, I can actually push in the slide stop a little bit.
Certainly cannot do that with the tighter CM9.
Is this normal?