Oil or grease on moving parts?

[mudfish]

Oil or grease? I just tried Tetra Grease on a bolt rifle and a Sig, smoothed up the actions well. How about on your Kahr? My Kahr seems mostly dry after carrying it a few weeks without any actual use. Not sure where the oil goes but I bet grease will stay better...

[CJB]

There is an excellent stick in the forum regarding lubing of Kahr pistols. You'll want to have a look at that.

I like - a heavy, stickier grease on barrel bottom lug/slidestop and inside the slide at the barrel upper locking area.

Everything else some TW25b, except - the extractor, striker and striker lock. Those get BreakFree CLP.

So, three lubes, three viscosities, three different stress levels in the moving parts.

[jocko]

some feel guns needs to be well lubed. probably some guns do even but for my K9 and PM9, now very well broken in, little lube is more than enough. One can normaly see where wear/contact happens in certain spots on his gun, lube that area and my bet is in time that will soon to get to be a littlier and littler contact point. More lube, just more gathering places for crude. Every gun is different, so one should find a lube he likes and personaly they are all good and just stick with it, why complicate things, these guns are not rocket science items..

[Bill K]

Wet for the range, dry [lightly oiled] for carry is what a lot of folks advocate as a rule of thumb.

I'll use BreakFree with Tetra on bearing parts during break-in and then switch to just BreakFree after break-in. My carry pistols don't get live fired all that much after they've been broken-in and proved reliable.

[garyb]

I'm currently using MilCom tw25b oil where it needs oil and grease where it needs grease on my PM40 and never had a problem. Before that I was using Bob Marvels Custom Gun Oil and never had a problem. Before that I used Rem Dry Lube and never had a problem. The only reason I changed was to try to find something better. I'll probably stick with the milcom products, unless I run out and need to use something else in a pinch.

To me, all this means is that the specific oil or grease is not that big a deal as long as I keep it clean and lubed. It seems to run well regardless of what I use. I'm in agreement that the reason for this is that the new gun oils and greases are pretty much all good. This is not much of an issue for anyone to be overly concerned with.

[TucsonMTB]

I'm currently using MilCom tw25b oil where it needs oil and grease where it needs grease on my PM40 and never had a problem. Before that I was using Bob Marvels Custom Gun Oil and never had a problem. Before that I used Rem Dry Lube and never had a problem. The only reason I changed was to try to find something better. I'll probably stick with the milcom products, unless I run out and need to use something else in a pinch.

To me, all this means is that the specific oil or grease is not that big a deal as long as I keep it clean and lubed. It seems to run well regardless of what I use. I'm in agreement that the reason for this is that the new gun oils and greases are pretty much all good. This is not much of an issue for anyone to be overly concerned with.
+1 . . . Substitute Weapon Shield for the oil and Shooter's Choice Synthetic for the grease. More evidence of the general goodness of modern gun lubricants.

[ripley16]

Oil or grease?

Either work. Most manufacturers recommend oil. A good quality product, commonly used by shooters, will work regardless the brand.

[Joe L]

At 100-110F in the summer I use grease on the rails so that it will stay put. My guns look a little dry after 100 rounds if I use oil alone on the hot days. They still look wet and run fine using grease. I use Lubriplate 105 engine assembly lube since I already have it but I clean them thoroughly every 500 rounds or so, otherwise the powder residue builds up too much on the innards. Pretty much everything works, even Ballistol or light oil.
Joe

[OldLincoln]

I prefer TW25 grease to oil for exposed ares, oil for hard to get to. The TW is very light and creamy, not like stiff pasty grease of yesteryear, yet it stays in place and doesn't run if you apply it light. After shooting it's still there so I'm sure the gun stays a bit wet.

I got the free sample of Weapon Shield and don't like it much. It goes on like oil but seems to become gunky. I'm going to say it's just me because I have only used Gunzilla and TW25. It might be good - just different.

[jocko]

pretty hard to beat TW25 grease IMO. supposably the military uses it ons ome of their high tech auto weaponary..

[TucsonMTB]

I prefer TW25 grease to oil for exposed ares, oil for hard to get to. The TW is very light and creamy, not like stiff pasty grease of yesteryear, yet it stays in place and doesn't run if you apply it light. After shooting it's still there so I'm sure the gun stays a bit wet.
Thanks for sharing your insight, OldLincoln!

Any odor? SWMBO is sensitive to many. :o

Have you tried it on Kahr's DLC finish? It would be nice to find something that kept DLC looking black longer than oils do.

It looks like a 4 oz. tube from Brownells for about $25 is the most economical packaging . . . thoughts?

[jocko]

mil-comm.com. try direct. I buy the TW25 in the syringe applicator .

[TucsonMTB]

mil-comm.com. try direct. I buy the TW25 in the syringe applicator .
Thanks, Jocko. What does this stuff smell like? Got to pass the spousal approval test . . .

By the way, the syringe is "only" about $19 an once, versus about $7 an ounce in the larger tube. Seems like I have an old grease syringe around somewhere. ;)

[jocko]

actually not bad, looks like salad dressing... let me tell you just the standard syringe with TW25 last a hell of a long time..

[O'Dell]

For over forty years, I've been using grease on rails, barrels, barrel lugs, and take-down pins. Everything else that moves gets oil. As far as I know, I've never had a lubrication failure. The pistols years ago were much 'looser', ie HP's, 1911's, but they still got well lubed. Today's guns are better made and fit tighter, so I think it is even more important now. One caveat is, that I clean and re-lube my pistols every time they are shot, so it's unlikely that any buildup will occur. I also recheck guns that have been idle for a while to make sure the oil and grease are still where they should be, and I clean and relube where necessary. Over the years the lubricants have changed, but the technique remains the same. Currently I'm using a fairly generic BC grease and Militec-1. I have some Weaponshield and FP-10 oils to try when the Militec runs out.

[OldLincoln]

I bought 3 syringes a long time ago to justify shipping and am just getting to the end of the first one. Now that I have them it occurred to me I should have bought 1 syringe and the larger tube and just refilled the syringe for the next 5 years.

I agree the odor is almost not there. My wife is very sensitive also and doesn't even know when I've used it. Smalls less and better than a tablespoon of Ranch Dressing. It is not petroleum based but entirely synthetic and the label staters it actually gets into the pours of the metal and bonds at the molecular level. That's why I rub it into metal, not just smear it on (can't hurt).

[TucsonMTB]

Thanks for all the good news, gentlemen! I will do a little more shopping on the Internet and place an order. :)