Slide stop melt (pics)

[CJB]

In another thread someplace... some pics of the new-to-me PM9 (old model).

Decided the old style slide stop was too sharp, so without trying to actually copy the newer one, I just rounded out the parts that bothered me.

Results below

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/bandersnatchreverb/P8290057.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/bandersnatchreverb/P8290053.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/bandersnatchreverb/P8290054.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/bandersnatchreverb/P8290055.jpg

A quick spritz with the blaster to re-texture the finish... and voila!

[OldLincoln]

Now that's nice. My only disappointment with the black PM9 is I can't doctor the sharp edges without messing up the finish. Well, that was then, they aren't as sharp anymore or else I'm used to them.

[wyntrout]

Very nice! It's a bit tougher for me with the DLC. I just stay off the darned thing.

I think jlottmc likes his sharpened, though.:D :boink:

Wynn:)

[CJB]

smallest compressor...
$12 harbor freight airgun
$9 worth of GunKote

And you got the color you want! And its so durable, you can only sand it off.

I'm half n half about doing the stainless PM in GunKote. Its the sights.... I dont really want to remove them, but.... could GK over them, and redot. Decisions decisions.

For now, I'll just leave it be. Gonna give a little more attention to the sharp part on the ejection port, then call it done for a while.

[OldLincoln]

Don't you have to have a box thing to blast into? Hmmm, that's more reasonable than I thought. Not sure about GunKote tho, you haven't seen my spray painting. Maybe I can GunKote the lawnmower or something to learn how.

[CJB]

My bead blaster is a Harbor Freight el-cheapo blaster, cost me I think $30. The media is ground glass, cheap.

Compressor is a $89 Craftsman thing, or sometimes a better unit. For guns, you only need a few blasts at a time. The media is disposable - goes onto driveway or grass.

For the GunKote, its hard to screw up. You just clean the surface, preblast is not needed but does help "even out" the underlying textures, if you have bright wear spots. PREHEAT IS NOT NEEDED - its only one way to do things. If you do not preheat, you have a better working time, and can correct mistakes. Pre-heating is for production work. For parts we do, just let it air dry. If you want to do something to flatten the finish a little, just dust it with lacquer thinner and it will lay down on the surface very nicely. Let it air dry. Then bake for an hour at 350-375. Cool. Done.

[les strat]

Good job!

Mine on my CM9 have just kind of worn smoother over the last couple months.