CM9 Noobie

[flach]

Hello everyone, I just picked up my CM9 yesterday and I'm trying to dismantle for it's first cleaning and am I the only person to have issues get the gun taken down for cleaning? I feel like a fool for having to ask, but none of my other guns have been this dificult, thanks in advance.

[gagnejs8]

What are you trying to take down? Line up the notches on the frame and slide, the push the slide lock pin out and you should be fine!

[DLButler]

I had trouble the first time also. I don't remember who, but I was advised to get a small piece of wood the proper size to hold the slide back so you can pop the slide lock. After I did the prep racking and first range rounds it was much easier to take down. I hope this helps.

[flach]

What are you trying to take down? Line up the notches on the frame and slide, the push the slide lock pin out and you should be fine!

Slide pin won't come out, never had this much trouble before.

[Bawanna]

Mine I can't start the pin out with my fingers, I have to use something a toothbrush handle is what I usually use. Takes just enough pressure that my fingers can't quite get it.
Remember before you do all this you gotta pull the trigger, it sometimes helps to wiggle the trigger a little bit when trying to put the slide back on too. It's important to make sure the recoil spring assembly is centered up good.

Line up the notches or line up the notch with the back of the take down lever and push. This usually gets much easier after awhile too.

Give it another try and let us know how it goes. No hurry, we'll wait.

[jocko]

what bawanna said is whqat needs to vbe done. If the slide pin falls out, then something is WRONG. Some use a shell casing or a small peace of plastic that fits under the slide lock lefver itself. Line up the two witness marks on the left side of the gun slide/framne and pop it out. What Bawanna uses is perfect as u will not mark anythiing. Once u do this a couple of times, you will feel foolish for asking about how to do it. It is a no brainer. Once the pin is out, and thegun surely unloaded and magazine out of the gun, as your pulling the slide off thegun now pull the triggert and it will sl;ide right off.

u might also wantto visit the kahr tech section ahdhit on two goos stickly's.

#1 kahr lube chart, #2 Propper prepping of your new kahr. Please do read um both.

[jocko]

Slide pin won't come out, never had this much trouble before.

compare how a kahr slide comes off to another brand. They are not all alike..:third:

[flach]

Still no luck, I've cleaned my Baby Desert Eagle FA, DB380, and Walther P22 tonight in less time than I have spent trying to break this gun down...

[yqtszhj]

Still no luck, I've cleaned my Baby Desert Eagle FA, DB380, and Walther P22 tonight in less time than I have spent trying to break this gun down...

I will tell you it is TIGHT until you take it apart a few times and fire it a bit. I have the CM9 and if you line up the marks it will come out. I agree it's really tight but it will come out. You won't have this problem after the first couple of range outings.

[hoghunter]

Remember before you do all this you gotta pull the trigger, it sometimes helps to wiggle the trigger a little bit when trying to put the slide back on too. .

Bawanna,
A note on this. The biggest challenge I recall having with the CM9 was after the pin was out. I go to pull the slide and have to wiggle it around a bunch to get the slide to release. I pull the trigger a few times and eventually I get a smooth release off the frame. I must not have read the directions well enough to pull the trigger before popping the pin out. I thought you pop the pin and then actually pull the trigger to release the slide. In my defense, I do not have my manual or CM9 in front of me but I do recall this being a challenge. Maybe I am describing this incorrectly or am remembering wrong? Come to think of it, I am not sure that when I reinstall the pin it fit correctly under the slide stop spring as per the pics I have seen on here. Could that have been contributing to the nosedive issues? I did not have any lockback problems.

Sorry for hijacking the thread- it just got me thinking about how I broke down the CM9.

I don't know why you would have so much trouble with the pin. It should push out with some pressure as long as the witness marks are lined up. Have you tried a little pressure with the witness mark on the slide pulled just a wee bit further back? Any chance the marks were off a bit? Just a guess.

[flach]

Directions say to pull the trigger after getting the slide pin is out.

[jocko]

I think ur right hoghunter. pULL THE PiN AND THEN ALL TOGETHER PULLTHE SLIDE AND PULL THE TRIGGER AND IT WILL SLIDE RIGHT OFF. I think that is proballby what bawanna meant

I doubt if the marksw are off but even so, one can see on the side of the slide when the slide stop lines up woth the cuto out in the slide. He just needs to play with it some more ..

[hoghunter]

Directions say to pull the trigger after getting the slide pin out.

That's what I thought. I do recall pulling the trigger and hearing the pin fall to remove the slide off the slide. I had troulbe getting the slide off after the trigger pull, but I was always able to work it off with some effort. I don't think I ever had it slide right off without some trouble.

On my last post I mentioned moving the slide a little bit further past the witness mark on the frame (pull slide back more). I had a CZ that the marks were off for some reason and this worked, but I don't know enough about Kahr to say if they would make that mistake.

[flach]

Got it ! Think I was drawing the slide back too far, I hate being a noob.

[hoghunter]

Got it ! Think I was drawing the slide back too far, I hate being a noob.

Great! My next comment was going to be the opposite of what I said before. Move it a bit forward of the frame proof mark. Looks like you got it. No worries about being a noob- I am one as well. I have learned a ton on this forum. You will not find a more helpful group. Maybe a bit funny/strange/twisted/etc. at times, but always helpful!!

[JFootin]

That's what I thought. I do recall pulling the trigger and hearing the pin fall to remove the slide off the slide. I had troulbe getting the slide off after the trigger pull, but I was always able to work it off with some effort. I don't think I ever had it slide right off without some trouble.

On my last post I mentioned moving the slide a little bit further past the witness mark on the frame (pull slide back more). I had a CZ that the marks were off for some reason and this worked, but I don't know enough about Kahr to say if they would make that mistake.

Same thing with my slide. Like it is catching on something after about 1/2" and I have to wrestle with it to get it the rest of the way off.

BTW, I use the pointed end of a sturdy chop stick that I had in the kitchen to hold the slide at the alignment point for take down. I move it in or out of the breach a little bit until the marks line up.

Mine works with the slide mark a little beyond the frame mark, too.

[Bawanna]

You guys are of course correct in pulling the pin and then pulling the trigger as you remove the slide. I guess I always do it both times since I'm used to taking a glock apart.
I remember the old manual used to say not to touch the trigger while putting the slide back on but I found that if you wiggle the trigger a bit it sure goes on alot easier. I think the manual might have been changed but I'm not positive about that.

[apdturbo]

for break down of my pm9 the lines dont exactly match up, i have to pull my slide back a little beyond the line in the frame for the pin to push over. i assumed that was acceptable and it shoots fine.

[flach]

Anyone have trouble getting the guide rod to sit flush with the slide when reassembling? It appears the end of the spring keeps getting in the way.

[JBarbaresi]

flach- i was having the same issue when i picked up my cm9 last week, the slide lock pin was extremely hard to remove. at first i thought the marks were not placed properly. after about a dozen times of field stripping and reassembling it is now easier to break down.

what i had to do initially was pull the slide back and line up the notches, and then use a hard surface like the edge of a table to push the pin from the right side to get it started. once it's started the slide will not move forward and you don't have to hold it back any longer. then you have to take a knife or something and lightly "pry" it out from the left side, putting slight rearward pressure on the slide to help in the process. make sure you put lots of lube on the "peg" portion and it will be easier next time. another trick i used to help loosen everything up was to leave the slide off and insert the slide lock, then rotate it and move it in and out several times to loosen up the hole in the frame.

i know you said you got it figured out, but next time you dissassemble you will have the same problem again so i thought i'd throw in my input to the conversation. it gets easier to do over time.

[JBarbaresi]

Anyone have trouble getting the guide rod to sit flush with the slide when reassembling? It appears the end of the spring keeps getting in the way.

see this thread about the correct way to install the recoil spring:

http://kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?t=8489

[Scoundrel]

Just to toss my two cents in here:

My slide lock pin comes out fairly easily, but has never wiggled out when firing, or any other time I did not want it to. I have somewhere around 1000 rounds through it now.

I don't pay much attention to the notch marks when taking the slide off. I apply some pressure to the right-hand end of the pin with my right index finger while pulling the slide back. When it gets to the right place, the pin pops into the slide (partway out). Then I just grab the pin and pull it the rest of the way out. maybe your spring is holding that pin too tightly. I've seen another threads where someone had to adjust that spring because it was too loose. Maybe some of them are too tight.

Regarding the trigger pull: Once the pin is out, if I just pull the trigger right then and there _and keep the trigger pulled_, the slide comes right off. If I pull the trigger and then relax it, the slide does not come off unless I pull it again and hold it. If I try to pull the slide first, and it stops, a trigger pull does nothing for me at that point. I then have to relax the slide back to the starting point, pull the trigger and hold it, and it will come right off.

Pulling the trigger and taking the slide off at the same time does work, having just experimented with it, but the timing is important. If I pull the slide too far before the trigger is pulled, I have to start over. But pulling and holding the trigger before I even move the slide works every time.

With a little bit of practice, you'll find out what your CM9 likes.

[flach]

see this thread about the correct way to install the recoil spring:

http://kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?t=8489


Issue is similar, but the spring isn't as visible as the pic in that thread, I have tried at least 40 times to put the guide back in place and every time it is approx 1/8 of an inch from flush. Done screwing with it tonight, going to spend the day at work tomorrow trying to talk myself out of returning the gun, and maybe take another crack at it tomorrow evening. :smash:

[JBarbaresi]

Issue is similar, but the spring isn't as visible as the pic in that thread, I have tried at least 40 times to put the guide back in place and every time it is approx 1/8 of an inch from flush. Done screwing with it tonight, going to spend the day at work tomorrow trying to talk myself out of returning the gun, and maybe take another crack at it tomorrow evening. :smash:
read post #7 in that thread by bawanna. you probably need to rotate your recoil spring 180 degrees so the end of the spring is on the same side as the barrel (up when assembled and the gun is held upright).

[Scoundrel]

flach, did you buy it from a local shop? If so, I suggest you bring it in and ask the folks there to look at it for you. I just took mine apart and tried to figure out how I could get that spring in there in such as way as to interfere with the guide rod. Tried a few times to mess it up. The only way it goes in there wrong is if I put the cut end of the spring facing toward the "bottom" of the slide (the rounded part that is on top when the slide is upside down). The cut spring-end would stick through the hole when I did that, but if I rotated it 180 degrees, I could not get it to go in wrong. There might be something wrong with yours.

If your local shop has more than one CM9, they might swap parts for you and then send their inventory one in for repair or something.

[flach]

read post #7 in that thread by bawanna. you probably need to rotate your recoil spring 180 degrees so the end of the spring is on the same side as the barrel (up when assembled and the gun is held upright).

Tried every way possible, maybe it is me, but done with it for the night.

[Rainman48314]

Slide pin won't come out, never had this much trouble before.My first three field stripings were tough. They got much easier but I still use a hard plastic object to push the pin. The damm index markings ought to be on both sides of the gun. Everything on my PM9 was hard to do at first.

[wyntrout]

I hold the slide upside down in my weak hand with the barrel pointing towards me and then I use my right hand to pull the rear of the guide rod with the spring in place, towards me, using my chest or stomach as a backstop. It's not always easy and I have to wiggle the front end of the rod as I'm pushing, or pulling, to get it into the front hole and at least flush so the rear of the guide rod will fit into the niche on the front of the barrel lug, centered.

I hold the pistol in my weak hand parallel to my chest while holding the frame with my right hand, thumb on the backside of the pin, and push both hands together while pushing the pin in(out) with my thumb. When the slide lock is aligned with the notch, it will give a little and push in enough to hold the slide in position. Then I can pull the slide lock out with my right thumb and index finger from that side while holding the slide against the frame enough to lessen the pressure... piece of cake!:D Not always, but I don't need tools with the polymer framed guns. The K9... all steel... is something else. I use something in the ejection port to hold the slide in the proper position to align the cutout for slide lock removal. Then I use the handle of a screwdriver to tap the pin in flush with the frame. You NEED something holding the slide in the right position with the frame... anything handy... a Sharpie pen... whatever part that gives you the alignment you need. The steel and polymer frames line up differently. That's where reading the manual really helps... and you find out what the "witness mark" is on the polymer frame... different from the steel frames.

I use both hand pushing together close to my chest to rack the slide, with my weak hand wrapped over the slide, thumb along the serrations facing me. I can get a better grip and exert more force.

ALL of this info is available on Kahr's site. Here's a video I just watched:

http://www.kahr.com/Pistols/Kahr-CM9.asp

You can change the CM9 in the link to whatever pistol you have and see if a video for yours is there.

You can look up your pistol and down load or read or watch all of the info you need there. This video was under Downloads for the CM9.

Wynn:)

[flach]

Well I have messed with this guide rod for 45 minutes this evening, filed the burr off of the end of the spring and guide still is 1/8 of an inch from flush with the front of the slide. Spring a guide fit back in the slide but if I put them on the frame I am unable to cycle the slide. Trying to decide between giving up and returning the gun, or contacting Kahr.

[Scoundrel]

Well I have messed with this guide rod for 45 minutes this evening, filed the burr off of the end of the spring and guide still is 1/8 of an inch from flush with the front of the slide. Spring a guide fit back in the slide but if I put them on the frame I am unable to cycle the slide. Trying to decide between giving up and returning the gun, or contacting Kahr.

Is there a local gun shop or shooting range, even if you did not buy it there? I'm sure that any gun shop or shooting range would be happy to look at this thing for you, and help determine where the problem is.

Can you upload some pictures?

[Bawanna]

So you can't get the guide rod and recoil spring back into the slide. Your not to the point of putting the slide back on the frame?

Everything worked and looked correct before you took it apart right?

I just don't see what the hang up is.

Maybe some pictures in the stuck condition, or something........

[flach]

Is there a local gun shop or shooting range, even if you did not buy it there? I'm sure that any gun shop or shooting range would be happy to look at this thing for you, and help determine where the problem is.

Can you upload some pictures?

Looks like pic in post #3 in this thread. Tried the things mentioned in this thread to no avail. :(

Ooops here is the thread... http://kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?t=8489

[Bawanna]

Just rotate that end of the spring around till it's up towards the barrel. Your putting the spring and the guide rod on as a unit? Shouldn't really matter. The spring hits the front long before the guide rod anyhow.

I'm chompin at the bit wanting to help ya here but I'm completely clueless as to what the issue is.

Don't give up, rotate that spring around, it has to go.

[flach]

Just rotate that end of the spring around till it's up towards the barrel. Your putting the spring and the guide rod on as a unit? Shouldn't really matter. The spring hits the front long before the guide rod anyhow.

I'm chompin at the bit wanting to help ya here but I'm completely clueless as to what the issue is.

Don't give up, rotate that spring around, it has to go.

Have tried aligning the spring every way possible. Willing to take the rap if it is something I am doing wrong, just can't figure out what it would be though. I've never run into this much trouble with any of the other guns I own or have owned. And thanks for trying to help, I don't want my frustration to make it sound like I don't appreciate everyone trying to help a noobie out. :o

[jocko]

get a new spring.

oR CUT OFF a quarter length of that outter open coil spring.

[Scoundrel]

I always put the spring and the guide rod in as a unit. Spring goes onto the rod, then the whole assembly goes into the slide. I just tried mine both ways - spring and rod at the same time, then I took it apart again and this time I put the spring in first, then shoved the rod into the spring and then into place against the barrel. Note that when assembled correctly, the guide rod is NOT flush with the end of the slide. It is, as you say, about 1/8" inside the slide. But WITHOUT the end of the spring poking out.

The guide rod does not go flush with the slide until you put the slide back on and put the pin back in. THEN it should be flush.

I've JUST recorded a YouTube video of me disassembling and re-assembling mine. Here it is: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUtSeSWrsGs (Note: I apologize for the focus being off for some of the vid, but at least the tripod was holding the camera steady.)

If it looks like the pic in post #3, then that spring is 180 degrees off, and that's why it pokes through the front like that.

If you get it back in without the spring poking out, and put the slide back on, and it goes flush but you can't rack it, then something is likely bent or misaligned, and you probably should send it to Kahr.

I'm afraid that's probably the best advice you're going to get without someone doing some hands-on. (Not trying to be arrogant or dismissive here, in case anyone reads that into it. Just not sure what else can be said.)

[Bawanna]

Is it possible you have that spring reversed. The open end goes to the front. Looks like the other one has it that way.
If the spring was too long that could be a factor but it was together once so I'm ruling that out. I gotta go see if anyone here has their PM9 with them.
We gotta get to the bottom of this.

[flach]

I always put the spring and the guide rod in as a unit. Spring goes onto the rod, then the whole assembly goes into the slide. I just tried mine both ways - spring and rod at the same time, then I took it apart again and this time I put the spring in first, then shoved the rod into the spring and then into place against the barrel. Note that when assembled correctly, the guide rod is NOT flush with the end of the slide. It is, as you say, about 1/8" inside the slide. But WITHOUT the end of the spring poking out.

The guide rod does not go flush with the slide until you put the slide back on and put the pin back in. THEN it should be flush.

I've JUST recorded a YouTube video of me disassembling and re-assembling mine. Here it is: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUtSeSWrsGs (Note: I apologize for the focus being off for some of the vid, but at least the tripod was holding the camera steady.)

If it looks like the pic in post #3, then that spring is 180 degrees off, and that's why it pokes through the front like that.

If you get it back in without the spring poking out, and put the slide back on, and it goes flush but you can't rack it, then something is likely bent or misaligned, and you probably should send it to Kahr.

I'm afraid that's probably the best advice you're going to get without someone doing some hands-on. (Not trying to be arrogant or dismissive here, in case anyone reads that into it. Just not sure what else can be said.)

Spring doesn't actually poke out, and I didn't remove the spring from the rod when I first dis-assembled the gun... Everything looked 100% when I purchased the gun, and the slide cycled fine, the spring just appears to be holding up the rod enough to keep the end from being flush after reinstalling it.

[Scoundrel]

Spring doesn't actually poke out, and I didn't remove the spring from the rod when I first dis-assembled the gun... Everything looked 100% when I purchased the gun, and the slide cycled fine, the spring just appears to be holding up the rod enough to keep the end from being flush after reinstalling it.

How does yours compare to this?

http://bruteforcetech.com/misc/GuideRodSpring.jpg

[flach]

How does yours compare to this?

http://bruteforcetech.com/misc/GuideRodSpring.jpg

Mine appears to be approx 1/4 in. longer... :confused:


Would appear longer isn't better in this case. :eek:

[BEARDOG]

Spring doesn't actually poke out, and I didn't remove the spring from the rod when I first dis-assembled the gun... Everything looked 100% when I purchased the gun, and the slide cycled fine, the spring just appears to be holding up the rod enough to keep the end from being flush after reinstalling it.

Are you saying that the guide rod/spring is not flush with the end of the slide when you have the slide assembly off the frame?

If so that is normal.... when you install it on the frame it will push it forward and be flush.

[Scoundrel]

Mine appears to be approx 1/4 in. longer... :confused:

They should be identical. We both have CM9s. I bought mine a couple months ago.

Looking at the coils against the ruler marks, does yours appear to be stretched out? My coils are exactly 3/16" apart. My entire spring is 2 9/16" long. The distance from the closed end of the spring to the back of the assembly is 15/16". The entire assembly is 3 1/2".

Is the closed end fully seated against the guide rod?

No offense to Jocko, but I'm not sure I'd go cutting the spring on a brand new pistol. If your spring is longer, then that could very well get in the way of it having full travel. I'd be wondering how it was possible for it to work before you took it apart.

So once again, I'm gonna ask if you bought it locally, and if so, whether the shop has another one they might be willing to swap parts with. I'd be going back to the store to have them look at it.

This is definitely a point in favor of buying local. I told my local shop how much Bud's wanted for the CM9. We figured out what the FFL fee and use tax would be if I bought it from Bud's, and he gave me a price that was within a few percentage points of the online price. I'm sure he would have helped me figure out any problems I'd had. But I didn't have any.

[Scoundrel]

One other thing to try: Take the outer spring off, put the flange in the middle of the guide rod against a hard corner (like the edge of a desk or something), and see if you can shove the back of the assembly all of the way in, compressing the inner spring. Mine goes all of the way in, so the back of the assembly touches the flange.

If yours comes up short, there may be something jammed up in there.

[flach]

Are you saying that the guide rod/spring is not flush with the end of the slide when you have the slide assembly off the frame?

If so that is normal.... when you install it on the frame it will push it forward and be flush.

When put on the frame it still isn't flush unfortunately.

[flach]

They should be identical. We both have CM9s. I bought mine a couple months ago.

Looking at the coils against the ruler marks, does yours appear to be stretched out? My coils are exactly 3/16" apart. My entire spring is 2 9/16" long. The distance from the closed end of the spring to the back of the assembly is 15/16". The entire assembly is 3 1/2".

Is the closed end fully seated against the guide rod?

No offense to Jocko, but I'm not sure I'd go cutting the spring on a brand new pistol. If your spring is longer, then that could very well get in the way of it having full travel. I'd be wondering how it was possible for it to work before you took it apart.

So once again, I'm gonna ask if you bought it locally, and if so, whether the shop has another one they might be willing to swap parts with. I'd be going back to the store to have them look at it.

This is definitely a point in favor of buying local. I told my local shop how much Bud's wanted for the CM9. We figured out what the FFL fee and use tax would be if I bought it from Bud's, and he gave me a price that was within a few percentage points of the online price. I'm sure he would have helped me figure out any problems I'd had. But I didn't have any.

Fully seated, and I agree on not cutting anything on a brand new pistol, I'm not even close to being a gunsmith.

[BEARDOG]

I see scoundrel pointed out what I said above... as far as the spring length goes count the coils, should be 15. The measured length is going to change some from use and age and they take a set. I counted mine and scoundrels and get 15 coils so I would say that is what you should have.

Are you setting the rear guide rod head on the little ledge so it is straight? If you push it the whole way to the barrel it will be crooked at the front hole.

[flach]

I see scoundrel pointed out what I said above... as far as the spring length goes count the coils, should be 15. The measured length is going to change some from use and age and they take a set. I counted mine and scoundrels and get 15 coils so I would say that is what you should have.

Are you setting the rear guide rod head on the little ledge so it is straight? If you push it the whole way to the barrel it will be crooked at the front hole.

Yes 15, and lining it up as straight as possible when trying to re-assemble it.

[Scoundrel]

If I count the closed end I get 15 as well.

I think BearDog might be onto something regarding that ledge. Does yours look like this?

http://bruteforcetech.com/misc/KahrBarrelLedge.jpg

[flach]

If I count the closed end I get 15 as well.

I think BearDog might be onto something regarding that ledge. Does yours look like this?

http://bruteforcetech.com/misc/KahrBarrelLedge.jpg

Yes, appears to fit in every way except the front not being flush... Thinking I am going to call Kahr tomorrow morning.

[Scoundrel]

Just one more set of questions and picture?

1. Did you try bracing the flange against a corner and compressing the inner spring to see if the back of the assembly goes all of the way forward and touches the flange? Kahr might want to know that.

2. Here is a picture of my slide, specifically the portion that the guide rod goes into. Do you see anything different when you look at yours?

http://bruteforcetech.com/misc/KahrSlide1.jpg

[flach]

Just one more set of questions and picture?

1. Did you try bracing the flange against a corner and compressing the inner spring to see if the back of the assembly goes all of the way forward and touches the flange? Kahr might want to know that.

2. Here is a picture of my slide, specifically the portion that the guide rod goes into. Do you see anything different when you look at yours?

http://bruteforcetech.com/misc/KahrSlide1.jpg

1. Yes and seems to work fine.
2. Looks the same from what I can see.

To be honest I am really at a loss with all of this, I was really looking forward to getting to the range and putting some rounds through the gun. Was going to replace my Taurus PT709 slim with this one and I like the ergonomics of the CM9 better than the Taurus.

[Scoundrel]

You really came up with an odd one, for sure. My condolences. I hope it goes well with Kahr support tomorrow.

[Scoundrel]

Wait a sec, did you make sure the Slide Offset Adjuster down in the frame didn't come loose? It looks like this:

http://bruteforcetech.com/misc/adjuster.jpg

[flach]

You really came up with an odd one, for sure. My condolences. I hope it goes well with Kahr support tomorrow.

Thanks to you and everyone else for all of your efforts, not too many places on the internet where so many folks would go this far to help out a noob. :D I'm really hopeful that I can come back here tomorrow evening and share some good news.

[hoghunter]

Wait a sec, did you make sure the Slide Offset Adjuster down in the frame didn't come loose? It looks like this:

http://bruteforcetech.com/misc/adjuster.jpg

Yikes! I've never even seen that part before!!

[flach]

Wait a sec, did you make sure the Slide Offset Adjuster down in the frame didn't come loose? It looks like this:

http://bruteforcetech.com/misc/adjuster.jpg

Nope it also looks ok, from what I can tell.

[flach]

Gotta run guys, thanks again for everyone's efforts. Will report back tomorrow.

[jocko]

well I certainly learned something new from the above photos. if that (slide offset adjuster thighy) is in the cm9, then that is a first for this new part. It is not in any other kahr and I can't find it in the parts section. Where in the hell is it at?? I never knew the slides were offset in kahrs.. It certainlt doesnt show in in the kahr cm9 parts on the webb site. I can't see where that part would even fit in the lower section.:third::third:

[jocko]

They should be identical. We both have CM9s. I bought mine a couple months ago.

Looking at the coils against the ruler marks, does yours appear to be stretched out? My coils are exactly 3/16" apart. My entire spring is 2 9/16" long. The distance from the closed end of the spring to the back of the assembly is 15/16". The entire assembly is 3 1/2".

Is the closed end fully seated against the guide rod?

No offense to Jocko, but I'm not sure I'd go cutting the spring on a brand new pistol. If your spring is longer, then that could very well get in the way of it having full travel. I'd be wondering how it was possible for it to work before you took it apart.

So once again, I'm gonna ask if you bought it locally, and if so, whether the shop has another one they might be willing to swap parts with. I'd be going back to the store to have them look at it.

This is definitely a point in favor of buying local. I told my local shop how much Bud's wanted for the CM9. We figured out what the FFL fee and use tax would be if I bought it from Bud's, and he gave me a price that was within a few percentage points of the online price. I'm sure he would have helped me figure out any problems I'd had. But I didn't have any.

circumstances I would agree with you on the spring cutting thing BUT we have read and I think one member just got his cm9 back from kahr or it s in the mail and they told him they cut back the recoil spring a tad to correct the timming issues. Sounds fishy to me but that is what he reported. We do know that some have called kahr and ask about why they can't get their slide to lock back on a new gun and was told to cut a quarter turn off the outter coil again sounds fishy so I am not recommending this as something that I have done but your sure in hell not gonna ruin the gun, u might ruin the outter recoil spring but that is all your gonna do and a quarter coil cut off will not do anything negative, but again it was a suggestion for something right now no one seems to have an answer for. I would suggest also calling kahr and asking for a complete new recoil assembly, they will do that . he could just have a binding recoil assembly. We might just also be tryng to help this fella fix a bad recoil assembly. certainly a new replacement will prove out that point.

I am still looking for that slide adjustment thinghy part in any parts list by kahr. One cannot accurately measure a recoil spring that has been in his gun and fired any rounds for it will take a redesigned set against a new spring. The new one will certainly be longer--by design and it is not uncommon for a longer spring to be sent out on kahr assembly, wshy that is, well it happens, as the new style slides cm9 and PM9 the recoil assembly is not the same length as the older style blunt nose slides on the PM9 and PM40. Kahr parts shows how to get the right one.

[Ressom]

Wait a sec, did you make sure the Slide Offset Adjuster down in the frame didn't come loose? It looks like this:

http://bruteforcetech.com/misc/adjuster.jpg

What the hell is that?!?

[Scoundrel]

What the hell is that?!?

OK, OK, I'm coming clean. That one was me pulling your leg.

It's the end of a rear brake cable from an ATV.


Speaking of which, I'm off to go riding ATVs in the mountains this weekend. I hope to learn what was wrong with flach's CM9 when I return, and hear that it's fixed.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fWnZ9BotAd4/TaGqiStIrnI/AAAAAAAAAN0/vfIV0m93VBs/s1600/i%2Bcan%2527t%2Bbe%2Bgood%2Ball%2Bthe%2Btime.bmp

[MW surveyor]

Sure wish the OP would post a picture!

[Ressom]

Ha ha! I knew it! But what's funnier is that flach said it looks ok! :)

[Bawanna]

I have to admit I looked at it and said to myself what the heck is that, it sure didn't come out of no Kahr or any gun for that matter.
ATV'ing for the weekend sounds like fun but I'm single until next tuesday I might try to arrange an affair. I know good luck with that. Truth be told I've never been unfaithful or even though of it although I did cheat on one of my Para's and played with another mans Kimber. I'm ashamed.

Take it easy on the new guy, he's frustrated and not having fun right now. I think he will be having fun if we can ever get his gun back together.

Flach, what part of the world you live in, maybe we have people close.

[flach]

Ha ha! I knew it! But what's funnier is that flach said it looks ok! :)

Couldn't find it, so I assumed it would be ok... Typing and working on gun at same time. Taking the gun to the shop where I picked it up during lunch today, will let you guys know what they say when I get back.

[Bawanna]

Go to lunch early, tell your boss Bawanna said it was ok. Make it a long lunch, it's friday. In fact, go now, call it a day. There's always next week. I'm thinking about doing the same thing.

[jocko]

Ha ha! I knew it! But what's funnier is that flach said it looks ok! :)

person, ten whips with a wet noodle and then bed early for one week. Bad enough trouble shooin kahr and now we have to look for a ATV brake part that they might have installed atr kahrs factory:banplease:

[flach]

Just got back... Appears to be fixed, sales guy took it back to their gunsmith and he said it felt "gritty" used a bunch of aerosol break free on it and said something fell out of the assembly that looked like a grain of sand... Going to tear it down again tonight and try getting it back together myself, but cycling the slide does feel better already.

[Bawanna]

Did you by chance get to watch the smith do it? I don't see the grit causing an issue getting the gun back together. I wish you good luck and hope you get it apart and back together easily. I suspect you will.

[flach]

OK, OK, I'm coming clean. That one was me pulling your leg.

It's the end of a rear brake cable from an ATV.


Speaking of which, I'm off to go riding ATVs in the mountains this weekend. I hope to learn what was wrong with flach's CM9 when I return, and hear that it's fixed.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fWnZ9BotAd4/TaGqiStIrnI/AAAAAAAAAN0/vfIV0m93VBs/s1600/i%2Bcan%2527t%2Bbe%2Bgood%2Ball%2Bthe%2Btime.bmp

Guess I now know why you picked that logon name. :7: :cool:

[flach]

Did you by chance get to watch the smith do it? I don't see the grit causing an issue getting the gun back together. I wish you good luck and hope you get it apart and back together easily. I suspect you will.

No, didn't get to watch, they were slammed and the sales guy gave it to the guy, came back out to wait on folks before going back to check on it...

[JFootin]

Flach, have you ever seen such a crazy bunch as on this forum? It is quite unique. I was talking with Ron Garrett and he affirmed the uniqueness, saying that its a whole different (in a positive way) world here than all the other gun forums.

Welcome and good luck with your gun! :D

[OldLincoln]

I admit to using brake cleaner spray for more then the striker channel, and the recoil spring assembly is one. After flushing it out, I lube the outside before putting the outer spring on and a couple tiny dabs with the syringe on the inner shaft. Once reassembled I lock the slide back and rub a tad on the now exposed inner shaft.

Okay, I admit that I like cleaning my guns and have way too much time on my hands. I usually spend an hour on a gun, looking all the parts over and playing with them feeling how smooth they work together. That's not required but I enjoy it and that's enough for me. BTW, the striker felt a tad rough before I washed it out, but smooth as silk after.

Last cleaning, I tried my best with the recoil spring only, to make it poke the end through the slide. It fits perfectly filling the space for it and will not go through. It occurred to me later that I have the strong Wolf spring so maybe the wire makes the coil to large to do it.

[Bawanna]

Wow, I'm thrilled that Ron has the time to visit us from time to time without notice. Course on the internet Ron could be anyone. He might be Jocko.

Jocko? Are you Ron Garret? Probably not he types without oven mitts when I've received emails, course maybe Sheryl checks em before sending?

Ron if your watching you and your wife and your company totally ROCK! (Are geezers allowed to still talk like that if we ain't growed up?) We'll be talking about one of them 7 round mag pouches yall sell sometime soon.

[jocko]

any good non cholorinated spray cleanerr will and should keep every part of that gun spiffy clean, kahr lube chart sticky is super. propper prepping of ur nhew kahr shows u where to spray to clean that striker chasnnel without dissaembly. Hope it all works out OK

In thre mean time I have order for all my kahrs that new part that FLACH showed. My PM9 is missing that part and although it has never faile din 32 K, MAYBE JUST MAYBE that new part will tighten up my groups alot. I sur ehope Kahr gets that part out to me.

[JBarbaresi]

didn't you say your slide was like 1/8th inch out of battery when reassembled? and the armorer said a piece of sand fell out? must have been one hell of a piece of sand.

anyways, glad you got it working. hopefully now you can enjoy shooting that sucker.

[jocko]

sometimes i wonder when they tell a person that stuff it is because they took it apart and found nothing wrong and then reassembled it and damn if it didn't work right. whatcha gonna say???I didnt do aything to it, so no charge or I found this big peace of crud in it and cleaned it all up and that will be $25please.

Just sayin??:banplease:

I knbew an ol Harley rider who used to paint his oil and tranny drain plugs, and one time the dealer ask him why painted his drain plugs red, He answer was, j"sothat Ican tell if ur techs really did take the plugs out when I ask for an oil and tranny changed. Dealer jnhever ask him again.

can u say screw me once your fault, screw me twice my fault!!:third:

[flach]

didn't you say your slide was like 1/8th inch out of battery when reassembled? and the armorer said a piece of sand fell out? must have been one hell of a piece of sand.

anyways, glad you got it working. hopefully now you can enjoy shooting that sucker.

Guy said he used compressed air on it and "something like a grain of sand" came out and may have been holding up the spring. Not sure... just hope it goes together when I try it tonight.

[MW surveyor]

So do all of us. So do all of us. :)

[flach]

Happy to say the gun went together again this evening w/o issue. Now I just need to find time to get to the range and start getting a little practice with it and need to find a holster. Thanks again to everyone for their help/input, even those that took advantage of my being frustrated and distracted (Scoundrel). :D

[Scoundrel]

Guess I now know why you picked that logon name. :7: :cool:

You got that right! Sorry, but I couldn't help myself. OK, so I'm not sorry. Still couldn't help myself.

Many a time I have called tech support due to an internet connection being down, and they put me on hold, and while I was on hold it suddenly started working again. Then they come back from hold and say "We don't see anything wrong. Are you sure it's down?".

Grain of sand, huh? That you didn't get to see, huh? Well, no matter. It works now.

We want to read your range report when you've put it through a break-in cycle!

[jocko]

u might have hit the ol nail right on the head their scoundrel..