Striker spring guide - lube Q

[Internet Blohard]

The striker spring guide (rod)....part #23 on the parts diagram....is not shown on the Kahr lube sticky as requiring lubrication.

I would think that as a part that appears to be functioning as a guide rod for the striker spring, it should be lubed in a similar way to the guide rod for the recoil spring. Since it has been dried out when the striker assembly has been cleaned with brake cleaner or gunscrubber, it would seem imperative that some lubrication be put back.

Should this part be lubed with a drop of oil...or not?

[ripley16]

In general springs do not require oil and the polymer guide rod needs no lube. A little won't hurt but neither will it really benefit the spring or rod.

[OldLincoln]

I recommend not lubing or oiling the striker assembly at all. I tried it and discovered after shooting the striker pin felt grimy pushing it back with my thumb. That's from carbon getting in through the striker pin hole in the breach. Oil/Lube only turns the carbon into paste and gums up the striker assembly. It is recommended to flush the channel through the small hole over it using non-chlorinated brake cleaner (outdoors and with eye protection). Nothing else is required.

[Bawanna]

Agreed. No lube in the striker channel. Just a magnet for crud.

[JFootin]

I recommend not lubing or oiling the striker assembly at all. I tried it and discovered after shooting the striker pin felt grimy pushing it back with my thumb. That's from carbon getting in through the striker pin hole in the breach. Oil/Lube only turns the carbon into paste and gums up the striker assembly. It is recommended to flush the channel through the small hole over it using non-chlorinated brake cleaner (outdoors and with eye protection). Nothing else is required.

Old Buddy, isn't there some kind of DRY lubricant spray? Wouldn't that make that striker work extra smooth without making paste? And maybe good in some other places, such as the extractor, the trigger mechanism, mags?

[TominCA]

I blow mine out with CLP (I know that's contrary to the lube diagram) A teflon spry would probably also work well but CLP will dissolve crud and leave a light teflon coating whrn it (quickly) dries.

[OldLincoln]

Well.... Brake cleaner cleans better than anything else I've used. I don't know about using a teflon or graphite dry lube, but i don't. I did a couple times but the striker felt gritty when pushing it back with my thumb prior to cleaning.

[CJB]

I think the idea there is to have no excess lube. I'm not sure if I agree with "totally" dry, but do agree that "nearly totally dry" is not a bad thing. Think of it in terms of "parts handled with slightly oily fingers". The thinnest, sheerest film of oil would be sufficient.

[ripley16]

I think the idea there is to have no excess lube. I'm not sure if I agree with "totally" dry, but do agree that "nearly totally dry" is not a bad thing. Think of it in terms of "parts handled with slightly oily fingers". The thinnest, sheerest film of oil would be sufficient.

That's how I see it too. Unless the striker parts, all three of them plus the channel, are coated in some self lubricating "wonder" finish, then it still constitutes metal to metal contact and I feel better having it lubed in some way. My personal preference is Militec1.

[jocko]

It is not mandotory that one not put any lube in a striker channel. do what bends your crank. Personally not for me though. Crud build up is gonna be more of a friction culprit than ever a totally dry channel..

[OldLincoln]

I took mine apart last night just to examine it. It's the pits to spend 30 minutes looking for that little coat hanger tool, so finally made another. This one will go in my cleaning kit! Anyway I saw and recalled that I have polished the striker assembly. It's super shiny and slick without lube so that may be another difference.

As for my blowing it clean with brake spray and not lubing it, it's what Jocko told me to do. He and Bawanna along with others mentored me when I got my PM9 and I pretty much did what they said because it worked for them. I also use Jocko's recommended TW25 and wouldn't switch. They did not steer me wrong.

[jocko]

Hell ur to damn old to STEER WRONG"

[Markis82]

Before I fired my CM9, I detail stripped the slide. I used Eezox on the striker and all other metal parts. I let the Eezox cure for 12 hours or so. Then wiped all the pieces dry. Coated everything again with Eezox. Waited several hours. Again, wiped everything completely dry before reassembly. Eezox actually "soaks" into the metal at the microscopic level. It works completely dry and forms a barrier around the metal. Beside reducing friction, it stops any dirt, grime, etc... from attaching, sticking, accumulation to the metal. This will not be part of my normal cleaning regiment. But, I'll repeat this process every 6 months or so.

[OldLincoln]

Well, you know they say you're only as old as you feel. Based on that, I can tell you that first hundred years is better than the second!

[jocko]

I don't feel old but I also face some hard facts. I just can't do what I useta do 10 years ago.

[OldLincoln]

I've followed the "if it hurts don't do it" philosophy for decades. I stopped using so many parts now they've rusted in place. Seems everybody wanted to slice me up to "make it better" but more like make some of their sailboat payments.

[DriveMyKahr]

I agree with what OldLincoln said.

Insert nozzle, spray away, DO NOT lube.

[Rubb]

1250 rounds through my PM9, never lubed or cleaned the striker channel…no problems.
How dirty can the channel get?? It runs like a Timex now, should I clean every 2000 rounds or so?

[OldLincoln]

Rubb, the channel gets blow back from the chamber and is dirtier than you might think. Should you try the brake cleaner notice the black color of the washout. That is powder residue and it can gum up the inner workings and cause light primer strikes. Now, it may never do that, or it may do that.

The issues comes down to risk management. Is the risk of not washing it out worth the consequences if it fails? I risk my life on my gun working properly should I need it and take that very seriously. So is the risk of dying worth the effort saved by not cleaning the striker? My answer is no, but yours may vary and I respect that.

[jocko]

1250 rounds through my PM9, never lubed or cleaned the striker channel…no problems.
How dirty can the channel get?? It runs like a Timex now, should I clean every 2000 rounds or so?

in all those rounds. , u do what u think is best, my opinion on this is that if your gonna clean the gun whenever that rate of rounds dictates etc, then that little clean out hole in the bottom of the slide up by the breech face, might take an additional 10 seconds in ur total cleaning job, u need not take the slide apart, just spray through that clean out hole with what ever spray cleaner u use. It will keep the channel spiffy clean, WHY CHANCE IT. There is no set round time to clean that channel. some ammo is dirtier than others, t would be different if cleanibngt that channel took a half hour etc, but that little clean out hole works super and iMO should be part of your cleaning routine.:blah:

I just left NAPA store today and they informed me NAPA is not stocing the 3M brand non cholorinated brake cleaner anymore. they ow have a large can for around $2.49 of CRC non cholorinasted with new EPA LOW VOC what ever that means. I bought two cans and it seems just as powerful and drys just as fast.:blah:

[Rubb]

Thanks guys..
I appreciate the answers and yeah…I take it serious too…headed out soon for the N-C break cleaner because I’ve never seen BF CLP recommended.
I’m pretty meticulous and like cleaning…so I’ll probably do it every cleaning now.
And chances….maybe with a poker bluff…not self-defense thank you :D
The wash out should be a learning experience after 1250 rounds.

[jocko]

RUBBG; as long as u use a good non cholorinated spray cleanerr, u will be good togo in that area. If you feel better with a gun product makers spray cleaner. Ihave no issues with that. I just checked and the Now NAPA brand brake cleaner is being called BRAKLEEN by CRC is now rated low VOL for what ever that means, the NAPA people told me that it is a new EPA enviromental something and that all makers will eventualy haveto have this to be approved. He did say that 3M has told them they will be making a LOW VOL non cholorinated brake claner soon but they have now went with the CRC brand, which I see alot in many auto stores

[Rubb]

Yeah, just got back from NAPA.
They had NAPA, 3M, CRC and Valvoline…all low VOC??, NAPA was cheapest @ 3.49..part# 4810.

Cleaning time :D

[jocko]

good man, clean away..

[Bawanna]

Do be careful with that stuff Rubb, it hurts like heck if you get any in your eyes either from your hands or the spray. Safety glasses and outside are a good thing. Just a short blast, and then hold down the striker drop safety plunger and another quick blast and your done.

[Rubb]

I can understand the dirt at 1250 rounds but, copper or brass shavings and pink residue from my red sharpie marked brass reloads.
Here’s a pic if anyone wants to doubt this stuff :eek:
4497

[jocko]

all that stuff will in time compact itself inside that striker channel and sooner or later u could start to get light strikes, just due to not cleaning that area. U can do about the same thing with that spray cleaner by just putting the spray nozzle behind the extractor and spraying away. It will keep the extractor channel clean also. I would advise putting a drop of oil behind that extractor and letting it seep down into the extractor channel. just a drop is all that is needed IMO. I prefer to keep the striker channel bone dry YMMV.

[Rubb]

Yeah, I did the extractor..didn’t lube it or the channel.
5-9 got the treatment though :D

[OldLincoln]

Good job, Robb! Glad you climbed on board.

[MW surveyor]

See, see we told you that you need to clean the striker area!

Hope you did that outside.

[Rubb]

Hope you did that outside.

Nope, it was done in the man cave…where all the cool stuff happens.
After reading the label though…turns out not so cool.
Glad it took less than 3 minutes and up the steps to fresh air.
I much prefer the smell of hoppes and break free.
Won’t be a good thing in the winter either with the furnace down there :eek:
Needless to say, the can is going to the garage.
I’ll be cleaning the striker channel out there with the door up going forward.

[OldLincoln]

Yeah, I tend to go out back to do my dirty deed. One nice thing about the TW25 & Gunzilla is the have very little smell. When I need a man boost I open up my Hoppe's and take a deep whiff.

Poor ole Dad would kick a hole in his box if he knew I was using that tofu gun cleaner. He was quite a man's man. He went the right way I guess, all his guns were plum wore out except the Colt 1911 I got. He won that at a raffle in his later years.

[jocko]

I use those brake spray cleaners inmy Harley garage alot, mayb eI have lost my smell. really doesn't bother me. ANY cleaner will take the oils out ofyour hands, so I recommend wearing a latex type glove for gun cleaning. Gun spray cleanerrs are no different.. They do put in some of the guncleaners a nice smelly aroma, andI think it attracts women to theproduct also. Where as brake cleaners stuff or CRC, or others are a MANS cleaner. We men like tosmell our own farts!!

TW25 is certainly a scentless grease IMO.

[Kenjs2]

If you really think it needs something how about graphite?

[OldLincoln]

I wouldn't recommend shooting graphite powder from the little squeeze bottle into the channel. When I do my locks every few years a lot comes out with a single squeeze. That powder "could" created an issue inside. I do understand the desire to somehow lube that puppy as I'm prone to doing that, but be strong.

[jocko]

If you really think it needs something how about graphite?

it's ur decision, over 90% leave that channel clean and dry. u got a bad made striker, nothing more than that. b ut its ur gun, so lubeit what ever way u want..

[earle8888]

FWIW...I spray out the Chanel with "gun scrubber" and I DO lube the guide rod and spring...lightly wipe it with gun grease. Haven't noticed any major build-up between cleanings...after each firing!