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View Full Version : That confounded "flange"



deadhead1971
01-04-2010, 07:46 AM
I shot 200 rounds last week at an indoor range. When I got done, I noticed that the front part of the guide rod flange spring assembly had fallen off. See photos. This is part 6a in the owner's manual. After 100 rounds, I did take apart and swab the barrel. So this piece fell off between 101 and 200 rounds. I am certain I was was shooting the gun with this piece off as I had no malfunctions to alert me.

I have a total of 785 rounds through the PM9. Apparently, the front part of the flange worked its way loose and fell off. I spent 30 minutes trying to find it and could not. I was in an indoor range, and there were hundreds of brass pieces all over the floor.

Anybody have this happen or heard of this? This seems to be a pain in the neck to constantly make sure the front flange piece is tight.

:(

500KV
01-04-2010, 08:13 AM
I shot 200 rounds last week at an indoor range. When I got done, I noticed that the front part of the guide rod flange spring assembly had fallen off. See photos. This is part 6a in the owner's manual. After 100 rounds, I did take apart and swab the barrel. So this piece fell off between 101 and 200 rounds. I am certain I was was shooting the gun with this piece off as I had no malfunctions to alert me.

I have a total of 785 rounds through the PM9. Apparently, the front part of the flange worked its way loose and fell off. I spent 30 minutes trying to find it and could not. I was in an indoor range, and there were hundreds of brass pieces all over the floor.

Anybody have this happen or heard of this? This seems to be a pain in the neck to constantly make sure the front flange piece is tight.

:(

Someone on here had that problem and, I think, wound up using some loctite.
Sounded like a good solution.

jocko
01-04-2010, 08:31 AM
gotta locktite it back on, no way will it stay on other wise...

wyntrout
01-04-2010, 08:37 AM
Someone on here had that problem and, I think, wound up using some loctite.
Sounded like a good solution.
Loctite! I would epoxy the next one! In the past I've used epoxy like you wouldn't believe on guns, but it has worked for me. I once epoxied a broken leaf spring together on a .22 Hawes (pot-metal with steel inserts) Revolver. It engaged the pawl to advance the cylinder. I used epoxy quite a bit on that gun. I finally got rid of it when the back of the topstrap broke... made in West Germany... late 60's!:eek:
Wynn

500KV
01-04-2010, 08:45 AM
Loctite! I would epoxy the next one! In the past I've used epoxy like you wouldn't believe on guns, but it has worked for me. I once epoxied a broken leaf spring together on a .22 Hawes (pot-metal with steel inserts) Revolver. It engaged the pawl to advance the cylinder. I used epoxy quite a bit on that gun. I finally got rid of it when the back of the topstrap broke... made in West Germany... late 60's!:eek:
Wynn
Absolutely wyntrout.
That JB-weld would do it for sure.
Think I'll go check mine while I'm thinking about it.

wyntrout
01-04-2010, 08:56 AM
I don't think that's a part that needs disassembly. So epoxy should prevent any repeats Both mags for my .22 TPH have the base plates epoxied on. Replacements, if you can find them, run from $80 to $125. The Interarms mags suck in that the tension of the little retainer "clips"/protrusions on the bottom of the metal eventually break the opposing plastic of the base plates. I tried to lessen the tension and epoxy them on. It seems to work... certainly cheaper. Duct tape just isn't neat enough for guns.:D
Wynn

deadhead1971
01-04-2010, 10:16 AM
I sent Kahr a note about this, and they are going to send me a new part. Thanks Kahr.

wyntrout
01-04-2010, 10:39 AM
I just checked the P380 at Kahr parts, and it doesn't have that two-piece, or three-piece with the sleeve, guide rod, but the PM45 does; so that's something else to watch for when I get one. I hate it when parts fall off my guns!!:D I prefer using the two-tube epoxy. Those double-syringe thingies can really suck!:D
Wynn

Oh, I thought of something else. The P380 is a "KP" model. Will there be a "PM" version.... ?

jocko
01-04-2010, 11:08 AM
I just checked the P380 at Kahr parts, and it doesn't have that two-piece, or three-piece with the sleeve, guide rod, but the PM45 does; so that's something else to watch for when I get one. I hate it when parts fall off my guns!!:D I prefer using the two-tube epoxy. Those double-syringe thingies can really suck!:D
Wynn

Oh, I thought of something else. The P380 is a "KP" model. Will there be a "PM" version.... ?

what would a PM version be???certainly they will not get smaller. I don't forsee an all steel version. Maybe a dlc finish model soon.

Dietrich
01-04-2010, 03:47 PM
I just went and checked mine and it was tight as a tick. I have over a thousand rounds through my PM9 and I haven`t seen this problem so far.Should I take it apart and loctite/epoxy it or just leave it alone and keep an eye on it? I`ve always subscribed to the old "if if ain`t broke" school of thought but you guys know more about this than I do. :confused:

ltxi
01-04-2010, 04:15 PM
Just leave it alone if it's tight. It's loctited from the factory, or at least it's supposed to be. Apparently one occasionally slips through without being properly secured.....it's happened before. I just check on mine during cleaning.

jocko
01-04-2010, 04:19 PM
I just went and checked mine and it was tight as a tick. I have over a thousand rounds through my PM9 and I haven`t seen this problem so far.Should I take it apart and loctite/epoxy it or just leave it alone and keep an eye on it? I`ve always subscribed to the old "if if ain`t broke" school of thought but you guys know more about this than I do. :confused:

it alone. kahr locktites it . I had to heat mine to even get it to break loose so that I could put on the set of wolffs extra poundage recoil springs. I also red locktited mine back on, I don't use the weaker blue locktite, although it will problalby work OK but the red is probably over kill to. IT WILL NOT STAY ON WITHOUT SOME ADHESIVE...:yo:

deadhead1971
01-05-2010, 06:36 AM
Mine was tight too. It took 700+/- rounds to work its way off.

deadhead1971
01-12-2010, 06:47 AM
I got my replacement flange and springs yesterday. Kahr graciously sent me a whole spring assemby--both springs and flange.

The new recoil spring is .5" longer than the spring with 785 rounds through it.

Do I need to take off that end piece and loctight it/epoxy or just leave it on? I will probably leave it alone.

wyntrout
01-12-2010, 08:38 AM
Man, I wouldn't take that thing apart. There's a lot of tension there and it would be a b*tch to reassemble. I WOULD keep an eye on it, though. It seems like a lot of problems crop up for people who take the guns down further than Kahr recommends. I DID read that part of the Manual, but people keep stripping the entire slide down, etc.:eek:
Wynn, proud new owner of PM9, DLC, N/S.

jocko
01-12-2010, 09:29 AM
springs take a set but that does not mean they have weakened. A set is built in to recoil springs. Take the advice of wyntrout. Leave the inner spring alone PERIOD.

wyntrout
10-19-2010, 02:15 PM
Information on Permatex Threadlockers:

http://www.permatex.com/documents/ThreadlockerSelector.pdf

Large Comparison:

http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m620/wyntrout/Permatex%20Info/PermatexInfoLarger_0480.jpg

Folder:

Permatex Info pictures by wyntrout - Photobucket (http://s1134.photobucket.com/albums/m620/wyntrout/Permatex%20Info/)

I'm trying to figure out how to use honey... er, Photobucket.

Wynn:D