Lesson Learned

[getsome]

I picked up two 100 count bags of new Remington brass in .44 special because most of my .44 spec brass was odd lot and had been fired several times so I decided to replace with new...

This is the first time I have ever bought new brass and in the past I just bought new factory ammo or range reloads and used that brass...I thought that since the brass was new I wouldn't need to run it through the sizer die and proceeded to prime, bell and charge with powder...

Next sat down last night to load bullets and noticed that I could almost use my fingers to press the bullets into the brass so I now know you must resize even factory new brass...Oh well live and learn and never assume anything...:rolleyes:

[wyntrout]

How do they fit into the cylinders? You can just run them through the sizer and then the crimp again. If they do fit, just re-crimp for a tighter crimp.

I had a Dan Wesson .357 in the 70's. Reloads would not fit the cylinders... TOO TIGHT! The same reloads would drop into my S&W. I ran the reloads back through the carbide sizer and shot them just fine. I wouldn't use a press setup with the primer-seater in place, though, OR the decapper!:eek:

Wynn:)

[Bawanna]

That would work.

New brass also needs to have the case mouth deburred with the little deburring tool. Some aren't too bad, others are horrible.

I like Shooting Star brass, seems very good and consistent. I only use it for stuff that's hard to find like my 45 Colts. For some reason it's hard to find around here and expensive if you do find it.

Everything else I use whatever brass I can find that I know the history of.

[getsome]

Didn't think to try the new empty brass in the revolver cylinder but I will try that tonight...The problem with my sizer die is that the decapper pin won't come all the way out of the die but I can unscrew it enough to resize without popping the new primers out so I'll do that tonight...

This reloading thing is fun but just when I think I got it down something like this pops up...One other question I would like to ask is my manual only has a load listed for the powder I'm using (Universal Clays) in .44 special for a 240 grain lead wad cutter starting at 5.1 gn 740 fps on the low side to 5.6 gn 880 fps on the high side...I am using 240 gn jacketed bullets and have been loading 7.0 gns for 1000 fps or so out of my S&W 629 .44 magnum revolver and it seems to be a very mild round...

I know the manuals have to be very conservative on their load data due to not knowing what kind of gun a shooter will be using but the loads in the manual seemed to be a little low and I slowly worked up to the 7.0 gn load and do not see any sign of high pressure when looking at the brass...I currently don't have a chronograph (want one) but the 7.0 gn load shoots pretty soft and is accurate even for me...

As a rule of thumb are loads for lead bullets lower than loads for the same weight jacketed bullet and do you think 7.0 is a good load or is too hot out of a magnum pistol?...As always, thank you gentlemen for your more experienced input...

[Bawanna]

Didn't think to try the new empty brass in the revolver cylinder but I will try that tonight...The problem with my sizer die is that the decapper pin won't come all the way out of the die but I can unscrew it enough to resize without popping the new primers out so I'll do that tonight...

This reloading thing is fun but just when I think I got it down something like this pops up...One other question I would like to ask is my manual only has a load listed for the powder I'm using (Universal Clays) in .44 special for a 240 grain lead wad cutter starting at 5.1 gn 740 fps on the low side to 5.6 gn 880 fps on the high side...I am using 240 gn jacketed bullets and have been loading 7.0 gns for 1000 fps or so out of my S&W 629 .44 magnum revolver and it seems to be a very mild round...

I know the manuals have to be very conservative on their load data due to not knowing what kind of gun a shooter will be using but the loads in the manual seemed to be a little low and I slowly worked up to the 7.0 gn load and do not see any sign of high pressure when looking at the brass...I currently don't have a chronograph (want one) but the 7.0 gn load shoots pretty soft and is accurate even for me...

As a rule of thumb are loads for lead bullets lower than loads for the same weight jacketed bullet and do you think 7.0 is a good load or is too hot out of a magnum pistol?...As always, thank you gentlemen for your more experienced input...

You got it Getsome. Lead loads will always be much lower than similar jacketed bullets. You can't push them much over 1000 FPS without leading issues rearing their ugly head.
A jacketed bullet can be slung down the barrel much faster. The minimum load will usually be higher than lead as well as it takes more beans to push that jacketed slug down the tube.
Been a long time since I loaded 44 but that doesn't sound like any where near a hot load. No signs of pressure and feels mild, your probably good to go. As always don't believe a word me or anyone else says about reloading recipes. Get on the internet and try to confirm a recipe from the powder manufacturer or a reputable reloading manual etc.
Lots of new powders out now days and manuals are having a hard time keeping up. Mine are old and they don't even list half the new stuff they got out there.

[getsome]

Thanks Bawann thats what I was thinking....My books have very little data for .44 spec but lots of loads for .44 mag...The starting load for Universal Clays with 240 gn jacketed in .44 mag is 8 grains for 1040 fps so thats why I figured 7.0 gns in .44 special would just about be equal...I load my .44 mag to the 8.0 gn load for range use and it feels about the same as the 7.0 gn special load just by seat of the pants....

As always I very much appreciate the advice...Its good to know the KING...

[OldLincoln]

Every time I reload I have to pause and go over things again. Fortunately I;m reloading the same thing repeatedly so not so much new experiences.

Reminds me of when i was in the USAF. I always used a checklist for testing engines except this one time. I was in a hurry and always knew the items so didn't bother. Boy was I surprised when fuel came pouring out of the engine all over the tarmac. I'd forgotten one little step, the one that turns on the igniters. Fortunately I kept my witts and didn't turn them on until the fuel was purged and cleaned up. Then, and every time thereafter, I used the checklist. Now I need a checklist on where to look for the checklist. Wonder if I can still re-up?

[getsome]

Man I hear ya OldLincoln, Every time I load on my dinky single stage press I have to get the instruction sheet that came with the die set to remember how far to screw the crimp die in....If I ever lose that paper I'll be SOL...

I changed the oil in my truck last weekend and drained the old oil out and replaced the filter and being in a hurry because the football game was coming on I proceeded to add 6 quarts of $8.00 a bottle synthetic oil and just after adding the last quart I heard a sound of dripping under the truck...:eek:..., yep you guessed it...&%#*~&@ it, forgot the forkin drain plug...Glad I bought a whole case but man did I feel stupid...Looks like I may need an oil change check list

[Bawanna]

Thanks Bawann thats what I was thinking....My books have very little data for .44 spec but lots of loads for .44 mag...The starting load for Universal Clays with 240 gn jacketed in .44 mag is 8 grains for 1040 fps so thats why I figured 7.0 gns in .44 special would just about be equal...I load my .44 mag to the 8.0 gn load for range use and it feels about the same as the 7.0 gn special load just by seat of the pants....

As always I very much appreciate the advice...Its good to know the KING...

Your right on track getsome. 44 mag and 44 special are very close obviously so unless your approaching maximum 44 mag loads the same load is most likely safe in your special. I still like to find something official I can point too when I'm showing people my new stump after the gun blows up. But the data said 52 grains of 296 was safe in my 38 special.

[muggsy]

I picked up two 100 count bags of new Remington brass in .44 special because most of my .44 spec brass was odd lot and had been fired several times so I decided to replace with new...

This is the first time I have ever bought new brass and in the past I just bought new factory ammo or range reloads and used that brass...I thought that since the brass was new I wouldn't need to run it through the sizer die and proceeded to prime, bell and charge with powder...

Next sat down last night to load bullets and noticed that I could almost use my fingers to press the bullets into the brass so I now know you must resize even factory new brass...Oh well live and learn and never assume anything...:rolleyes:

After inspecting new brass, I size, trim the cases to length and deburr. I hate doing a job more than once unless it involves sex. :)

[Charlie98]

I had somewhat the same experience with a box of new .41Mag brass... so I just run everything through the resizer on the way around the merry-go-round.

Lead bullet loads and jacketed bullet loads will usually be different, in most cases I don't try to extrapolate data between the two, I find reliable documentation. With the internet there are literally hundreds of places to find reliable loading data for any bullet, it seems, including the manufacturers themselves.

I don't know if I'm reading your other post correctly... do not run loaded ammo through the resize die, it will size the case down all right... and the bullet loaded inside will be way too small for the barrel diameter.