Happiness is a new gun 2

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Originally Posted by Bawanna

I managed to get the SP101 22 apart and back together. I'm not gonna polish anything this trip. When the springs arrive I'll put them in and see how it goes. My trigger (actually the wifes gun) measures just like a video I watched. Little over 10lbs. If like they say it goes down to 6 DA and 3 SA it will be a whole new ball game. Kind of anxious to see if it works.
Tried this on the wifes Smith 638, as I recall I replaced one spring but got skeered on the 2nd so didn't do it. Didn't help much. Guess I'm a coward.

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Should be interesting. JohnR seems to be happy with his 10# 9# spring combo, mine is at 9# 8#, and I think your kit has the 9 1/2# 7 1/2#.

Those springs are in the .327. My SP101 in .22, I bought used and have no idea what springs are in it, but the trigger is excellent. Not freakishly heavy.

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Originally Posted by kenemoore

So...from my shade tree gunsmithing experience. Rim fired .22 pistols, should always have heavier triggers than a center fired pistol. It takes more "***" to fire a rim, versus a center fire. If you reduce the hammer spring to much, you may experience unwanted fail to fire events.

.22 revolvers will never have as nice of a trigger as a centerfire revolver, just the nature of the beast.

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Exactly what I’ve read. Exactly what I’ve experienced. The few 22/22 mag revolvers I’ve had had the heaviest triggers I’ve had. That being said, co’s like Mcarbo have obviously taken that stuff into account. Their customers seem to be happy. My approach is that any smoothing of internals would only contribute to the end result of an upgrade such as theirs. If you have too light a spring, coupled with additional resistance of casting junk, metal boogers, burs, etc then you have a high likely hood of light strikes. Take that same spring, but remove any of those other resistances at play (at least the one’s related to the lighting off process) and the failure rate would decrease.

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Originally Posted by berettabone

Actually, it should be called a deburring. I've handled quite a few different SP's. On some of them, the triggers were not bad, with no grit, just a bit heavy for my liking. On others, they were heavy, gritty, and some had some rubbing on one side or the other between the hammer and the frame. That's why some have shim/shims put in to center the hammer. Some also take the slop out of the cylinder play by putting a washer in/on in front of the cylinder. I haven't taken the slight cyl. slop out of mine but do have hammer shims. The "polishing" and shimming does make a slight difference. I do shoot mine, so that also helps.....................

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Very valid, experience related points sir! As I’ve read about them I see why you’ve brought those points up. So interesting to me to learn how each of those things can effect the other.

New shoes for the new gun....

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Originally Posted by jeepster09

New shoes for the new gun....

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OH WOW! Salivating over here!!!!!!!!!!

My Cobra, first close to real caliber gun I ever bought. It replaced a Colt Agent that got stolen. Yours is shinier. Mine was carried for many years in an earlier life.

My ebony grips with the original grips.

https://i.postimg.cc/8PDqbrg8/DSCN6882.jpg

Great grips on those snakes! That ebony begs to be caressed.

I bet those grips on jeepsters feel really good in the hand.

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Originally Posted by Bawanna

Very tolerable. I was surprised. My K40 is a handull of M80, the 30S was no issue. Now that was some time ago, I might be more sensitive now but it wasn't bad at all.

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The PM40 wax my first Kahr. Did not know guns too much back then. Carried it for maybe 6 months. Decided one day that I better test it out (in the back yard). After that, I could not get rid of that sucker quick enough. I think it was one of those older P series Rugers that I traded it for.