Happiness is a new gun 2

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Originally Posted by dao

I've never quite understood the attraction to .357Sig. Of course I've never really pursued the answer before. What are the things about the caliber that make you like it so much Barth? As compared to say, .40S&W.

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Originally Posted by Barth

... they could duplicate 357 Magnum 4"-barrel 125 gr @ 1,450 fps performance. ...

Note: My preferred carry load is Underwood GDHP 125 gr @ 1,475 fps. ...

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My commitment to 125 gr. 357SIG ammo is due to (1) the fact that its performance mimics that of 125 gr. .357 Magnum ammo (which has a very long history as a proven effective LEO and SD revolver round), and (2) the fact that it is a bottlenecked round (which should decrease the chance of seeing a feeding issue in a semi-auto).

I use 125 gr. 357SIG Underwood GD (my preferred round) or 125 gr. Speer GDLE for my SD/HD ammo. The Underwood is advertised as 1,475 fps, ~600 ft-lbs energy at the muzzle of a 4" barrel. And the Speer (#54234) is advertised at 1,375 fps, ~525 ft-lbs at the muzzle end of a 4" barrel.

By the way, a Sig P229 (or an X-Changed M11-A1) shoots both the UW round or the Speer round very comfortably!

rx7sig

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Originally Posted by BirdsThaWord

Well if that's what they said then it must be true!  Don't you know that they know better than you?!?!
You say "had". I take that you have it no more?

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I sold it. I heard Obi Wan murmuring, "This is not the 1911 you're looking for."

And whaddya know, Hogue makes a rubber 1911 grip with palm swells.

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Originally Posted by JohnR

Tisas are good quality, so they had to control demand or they’d lose control of the supply. The Stingray I had, the rear sight seemed welded in place. They told me it didn’t need adjusting. :(

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Funny my Tisas Carry rear sight must be welded too, it doesn't look like it but I've used a pusher, and punches and tried everything, it won't budge 1 iota. I'd just like to move it just a tiny bit as it shoots left, not bad, still minute of pie plate but would be nicer. My 1911 U MRI has an adjustable rear sight. Love it. Was super easy to dial in and didn't take long, it was close out of the box.

I was expecting a tough go when I decided to change the sights out on my Tisas SS Carry, based on things I'd read on the interwebs, much like those above. But in my case they slid right out with little effort. Same case when I swapped sights out on my Kahr MK9.
I use a Wheeler pusher. I've found that the slide really needs to be dead nuts perpendicular to the direction of travel. I then get the pusher as tight as I can with my hand, and if it hasn't moved yet I put a brass drift punch against the side of the jaw of the pusher and give it a sharp tap or three with my small brass gunsmith hammer (about 8oz). When they're that tight I've heard them make a snapping or popping noise when they let go. After that they slide right out. I check the alignment several times to make sure that everything remains lined up. I bought my pusher years ago and paid a little more or a little less than $100 for it, can't remember exactly. Now the same pusher is going for closer to $200 unless you get lucky and find a bargain on one.
This is the model I have. You can see the lines they scribe in the bed of the pusher to help align the slide, and keep it aligned, in the second picture.
I also use three pieces of the camping cutting board against the slide, one on each side and one on the top between it and the delrin pushers to protect the finish. I've yet to either find a set I couldn't move, or ding a slide in the process of swapping them out. But it takes time and two or five checks of for alignment in the process of removing. Direction of travel is also important and they don't all go out in the same direction. Most are out to the right and in front the left when looking from the rear of the slide, but not always.

That's the same exact pusher I have. I use strips of leather in lieu of the camp cutting board. I also got it super tight and smacked it with hammer and punch as directions mentioned. Mine didn't pop. I was just trying to adjust a bit, I'm ok with the sights. If I ever decide to swap I'll just run a cut across the sight with a dremel and it'll come out. I was messing with the rear sight, guess I could nudge the front just a tad and maybe correct it, hadn't thought of that.

I'm afraid to post this as I might jynx myself :eek:
Seems like I've been very lucky over the years.
Most of the guns I've purchased were sighted in "dead on" right out of the box :cool:
Hopefully my good luck continues with the CZ Shadow Compact :D
I've got sky high hopes for that gun after shooting my CZ 75 Compact.
That thing is an absolute tack driver.
I'm actually afraid to change the factory sights on it.
It just shoots so good the way it is.

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Originally Posted by Barth

I'm afraid to post this as I might jynx myself :eek:
Seems like I've been very lucky over the years.
Most of the guns I've purchased were sighted in "dead on" right out of the box :cool:
Hopefully my good luck continues with the CZ Shadow Compact :D
I've got sky high hopes for that gun after shooting my CZ 75 Compact.
That thing is an absolute tack driver.
I'm actually afraid to change the factory sights on it.
It just shoots so good the way it is.

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Yup, don’t touch anything!

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Originally Posted by JohnR

Yup, don’t touch anything!

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https://i.imgur.com/0HSYYzA.jpg

Full length guide rods in a 1911 are a good thing, right?

The only reason I've seen that is a definite advantage is the fact that they enable the use of a flat wire recoil spring. And that can increase the longevity of the spring by a factor of ten or more.