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It sometimes is very revealing as to just how imperfect some guns are once you strip off factory coatings, etc. Sometimes I’m kind of like “Surprise! Surprise!” (Gomer, Lol!).
I’m seeing you getting your rewards from all of that hard work. Each of those hours is obviously paying you in eye candy dividends! ;)
Yes indeed. And I'm enjoying fondling it :D
This is not something I would have attempted on my CBob. But with this one I feel like, if I mess it up I can just take more material off.
Smart move. That’s how I started, with one I knew I could mess up on and not be too upset if it went sideways. Your’s is a lot nicer than my first one though.Quote:
Originally Posted by dao
The Colonel does fine work. I sent my grips up to him with a request to put some checkering on the backstrap, which was smooth before he started. Picked them up from the PO today.
I didn't realize when I took the pictures that I didn't have the left grip centered on the holes which is why the grips don't line up perfectly in the picture. They do now though.
Great job Colonel! Let's talk about what I owe you for your time, your fine work and the postage! BTW no need to sharpen up the points beyond what they are now. A little sharper would have been fine, but they're also fine as is. They feel much better in hand now. The P229 is a fairly small gun and in .40S&W I don't think I would have enjoyed it with the grips as they were. Thanks again!
The man has skills I tell ya!
Looking good!!!!!!!!!!
Wow! I’m impressed. They came out great!
Maybe just the pics, but are your controls (decocker, slide stop, mag button) nickel DAO? I’ve been putting aside to get the stuff to nickel mine (when it cools off and the mosquito’s die down) but would much prefer stainless. Did it come that way, or did you put those parts on there? Thanks!
They are nickel plated Bird. Came that way on this model from the factory, back in the mid to late nineties. In this instance the frame was made in Germany and the gun put together in Exeter, NH. I don't know where the small parts were made but given that the slide was made and plated in the US I'd venture to say the small parts were also. Sig doesn't keep records for the guns whose frames were made in Germany so the closest I can pinpoint my year of manufacture was 1997, possibly '96. The grips are aftermarket Hogue's. I don't know why they don't checker the backstraps but we have the Colonel :)
Thanks for that! I think yours & mine must be a close build as it’s slide & frame are marked as yours. So, doing some nickeling is definitely on the project list! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by dao
You might be able to just buy the controls from Sig, Bird. Not sure of course but another option would be to contact them and possibly have them go over the gun and install them in the process. From what I've read they do good work, are pretty quick, and are not prohibitively expensive.
These grips feel much better in hand than they did before. I think I'll leave them on at least until I take it to the range. After that, depending on how it shoots and feels I may put the G10s I bought for it back on for carry. It looks good either way but wood grips and leather holsters are the cat's meow for me.
On a side note I continued sanding and polishing my Tisas for another session. I've gotten almost all of the chatter marks out on both sides but I can still see them if I look close. One thing I have noticed is that naked stainless with a high shine needs/likes to be wiped down a lot, or smudges appear seemingly out of nowhere :)
I just bought this holster from Don Hume. I've become very interested in cross draw and the neutral cant on this, along with the sweat shield should work for several guns, though it's made specifically for the rail-less P229/P228 (ignore the glock). Not bad for $38. Found here. No tax, free shipping.
Classy looking holster and I do agree that the Colonel enhanced grips will go very well with it.
I had looked at the Sig nickel stuff and had considered them. I was just hoping to find stainless (was hoping you’d say yours were stainless) and I think you know why/what I’d do to them ; ). I’m going to go ahead and nickel what I’ve got after cleaning them up. If my nickel job does not come out perfect I’ll visit Sig for their factory nickeled stuff. Wanting the 229 to come out perfect. Yours looks very nice with those controls against the black frame.
Very true about the smudges. Only one I every carried much after polishing was an Iver Johnson Thrasher SS. It too smudged and showed every finger print. I would wipe it down each evening with a silicone cloth, then a regular micro fiber cloth or a paper towel. I would always wipe it down before showing it off. : )