Kahr trigger technique

Hi,
I'm new here. I've been lurking here for several months; been thinking about getting a Kahr for carry. My thanks to everyone for sharing their information and experiences.

I came across a K9 in a rental cabinet at a gun range today and rearranged my day to try it out. I really enjoyed the way it felt in my hand (just big enough for me to gain a full purchase on the gun), and I was surprised at how well I was able to shoot it given my near total inexperience with Kahrs.

I have a question about the trigger finger technique experienced Kahr owners use:

With the Kahr's long trigger pull, the trigger break was quite far back towards my palm. I have large-ish hands (I wear Large gloves, but not XL). So, in pulling the K9 trigger I found myself beginning the trigger pull as normal, with the trigger placed on the pad of my finger (about halfway down from the last joint). But then, to keep pulling the trigger fully through the break I found myself having to slide the trigger across the pad of my finger during the pull as I curled up my finger -- by the time the gun fired the trigger was nestled fully in the first joint of my finger. At the break point, I was no longer evenly applying force to the trigger across the trigger face but rather somewhat laterally, using the outside edge of the trigger (inward from the weak side).

Although it was working unexpectedly well, this seems like pretty sloppy trigger technique. Yet, short of trying to balance the trigger face on my finger tip and hooking it with my fingernail I'm not sure how else to achieve full trigger travel. I found myself wondering whether the whole trigger assembly would be better placed another 3/8" out toward the muzzle.

How do you experienced Kahr shooters manage the long trigger?

Thanks (and I'm sorry for running a bit long in my effort to be clear in what I'm asking).

IMHO, if you are hitting what you are aiming at, fire away! It's kind of like the golf expert telling you how to swing a golf club. I'm still not worth a sh!t at golf!

Sort of a rabbit trail but here goes, ....

An instructor at a federal training course showed me an excellent trigger training technique. Works on any gun and you only needs a rubber ban or two.

Get a medium sized rubber band, or a few lighter bands, and hook them on the pad of your trigger finger. Assume the "grip" position and hold tension inline with your forearm/wrist along the phantom slide/gun line.

Now the hard part. Watch your trigger finger as you pull to the trigger brake. If you cannot go straight aft, readjust the rubber band. Find your body mechanics comfort point. Build some muscle memory going straight aft toward your wrist.

Sounds rather simple but spend 5-10 minutes and then return to dry fire practical. I would be surprised if you do not have a better (less left / right push / pull) and the front sight stays closer to the point you select.

In the end, what ever works is the best technique for you. If you are happy with the results, great. Tiger Woods reinvented his swing a couple of times to get better mechanics. You have to be the judge.

comment removed...not relevant

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Originally Posted by NoJustHappyToSeeYou

I have a question about the trigger finger technique experienced Kahr owners use:

I found myself beginning the trigger pull as normal, with the trigger placed on the pad of my finger (about halfway down from the last joint). But then, to keep pulling the trigger fully through the break I found myself having to slide the trigger across the pad of my finger during the pull as I curled up my finger -- by the time the gun fired the trigger was nestled fully in the first joint of my finger. At the break point, I was no longer evenly applying force to the trigger across the trigger face but rather somewhat laterally, using the outside edge of the trigger (inward from the weak side).

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In amswer to your PM concerning the start point of the standard, (NYPD), K9 trigger. I believe the increased length of pull starts at the beginning of the pull, and also travels further than the elite at the end, however I no longer have my old K9 to directly compare with the elite trigger. If I'm wrong... then someone correct me please.

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I found myself wondering whether the whole trigger assembly would be better placed another 3/8" out toward the muzzle.

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I agree, the trigger feels as if it is too close. This condition can and, I submit, should be rectified with the addition of adjustable backstraps. Structurally I see no reason this could not be possible on the polymer Kahrs. This would be a simple way to make the polymer guns more ergonomically correct for more people.

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How do you experienced Kahr shooters manage the long trigger?

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I find myself putting the right edge of the trigger all the way over to the first joint, as opposed to in the middle of the first digit as I shoot many other pistols. But again, I do not shoot the longer trigger anymore. I frankly did not like the longer length.

I went round and round with this during my first year using a Kahr CW9. Finally settled on regularly using the first joint to pull the trigger, because that's how the gun and my hand fit together.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKdXmcdB5WE

That should help you out.

Lurkers make me nervous.:behindsofa:

Glad you came "out". :D

Welcome.

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Originally Posted by jeep45238

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKdXmcdB5WE

That should help you out.

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Great video, thanks for pointing it out. I do have large hands (XXL gloves) and I have struggled with every gun I've owned/shot except for the ridiculously huge Desert Eagles. By allowing the first joint to collapse I can tell already by dry firing that my aim has improved. Too cool.

REACT,

Glad it helped you out. It goes against much of what we're taught, but it works quite well for DA pulls.

To quote Gabe Squarez:

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To simple to be tactical

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Originally Posted by jeep45238

It goes against much of what we're taught, but it works quite well for DA pulls.

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I dry fired for a good solid 5 minutes and I found myself occasionally reverting back to my old ways like in the video (45 degree pull on the left side if the trigger), so I will continue to practice, practice, practice. I also discovered that I can perform the same collapsed joint trigger pull against my left thumb to practice the technique much quicker than with the gun. I know how to shot, I just need to develop the correct muscle memory now.

Thanks again. It was the epiphany I needed.

I recommend alot of dry fire practice, first getting used to staging the trigger "just to" the release point and getting used to where that point is. Secondly, find the place on your trigger finger where you don't pull left or right as a result of the mechanics of your squeeze direction. In other words, get the travel that finger perpendicular, not right or left. For me and because it is a DAO, this turns out to be at the distal edge of my first/distal joint that is closest to the end of the trigger finger. Not on the middle of the joint, but just to the far edge of that joint. For a right hander, too little pad or to far to the tip of the finger will cause you to pull left...; while too much pad or to far to the distal/first joint will cause you to pull right. I am sure you already realize that. I've found that a CTL helps alot for dry fire practice and dry fire practice is the key. Once you use one, you will see what I mean.

Also good video. Training is everything. I will try the relaxed first joint method to see if it helps me. I'm always willing to learn something new and change. In theory it is very similar to what I was saying about the direction of trigger pull. Thanks for sharing jeep.

Good video. That makes a big difference.

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Originally Posted by jeep45238

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKdXmcdB5WE

That should help you out.

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That video is spot on help -- thanks very much!
Thanks, too, to everyone else for their comments!