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Thread: Happiness is a new gun 2

  1. #591
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnR View Post
    I have a 1990 SP-101 in .22LR on the way. Wolff sells lighter springs for that, but not for the newer .22s. I expect I’ll be getting those. This 101 has a 4” barrel and holds 6, not the unnatural 8 of modern ones.
    Should be fun! In that frame, you can shoot 22 +P++++++++++
    Are you going to shoot it some before the springs? I’d be curious as to the light strike concerns some address with the 22’s. But then again, Wolff usually gets it right from what I’ve read.

  2. #592
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnR View Post
    I have a 1990 SP-101 in .22LR on the way. Wolff sells lighter springs for that, but not for the newer .22s. I expect I’ll be getting those. This 101 has a 4” barrel and holds 6, not the unnatural 8 of modern ones.
    I think that's what we have a 6 shooter. I have the Wolff spring kit which as I recall came with a couple options in weight. An old coworker did his 38 I believe and it made a noticeable difference. Maybe this will inspire me to try doing ours???
    In Memory of Paul "Dietrich" Stines.
    Dad: Say something nice to your cousin Shirley
    Dietrich: For a fat girl you sure don't sweat much.
    Cue sound of Head slap.

    RIP Muggsy & TMan

    "If you are a warrior legally authorized to carry a weapon and you step outside without that weapon, then you become a sheep, pretending that JOCKO will not come today."

  3. #593
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    Still have the stock springs in my 1993 SP101 .357.
    It serves as my car gun for road trips along with a couple of speed loaders.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    A man can never have too much red wine, too many books, or too much ammunition
    -Rudyard Kipling

  4. #594
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    Quote Originally Posted by BirdsThaWord View Post
    Not sure if you are asking me or the Colonel? IÂ’ll be looking at a kit from Wilson Combat, but not sure yet. What little research I did has me under the belief that people have had better results with the WC stuff than with the MCarbo stuff. IÂ’m open to any experience, feedback or pointers.

    EDIT: Just read up on the WC spring kit...
    Comes with a #10 trigger spring and both a #10 and #12 hammer spring. I will install both the #10Â’s. If I get light primer strikes I will go to the #12 hammer spring. The hammer spring is super simple to get to if need be.
    I was asking you. I was just curious. My SP is polished internally, shimmed, and I used the Wolff springs. 9# hammer spring and 8# trigger spring. Haven't had a light strike yet. Makes a world of difference in pull and smoothness. Feels like a Kahr trigger basically. Sp101 triggers can be awfully gritty and stiff from the factory.

  5. #595
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    A few dry fires with snap caps will tell me if I want the lighter springs. I had a 2" and a 3" 101 in .357 long ago and changed the springs in those with satisfactory results. I have read that the Ruger rimfires can be lightened up a lot without light primer strikes. There's a guy on the Ruger forum who fabricated a whole new part that the spring goes around, a longer one to lighten the spring tension. I forget the pull weight he ended up with but it was shockingly light, and he had zero problems with a whole lot of rounds fired.
    Man of steel - Kahr T9, SP101, 1911

  6. #596
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    Does anybody here have any experience with anodizing aluminum?

  7. #597
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    Quote Originally Posted by dao View Post
    Does anybody here have any experience with anodizing aluminum?
    I have done quite a bit of research, but have not done it yet. Might be buying dyes and masking agent this weekend. I am “building” a P226 and will be doing it’s frame to mimic a rust/case hardening (see attached pic). I will mask, do 1 color, dillute that color, mask all but close to the 1st color, do a 2nd color (dilluted from the 1st) and keep repeating the process with the colors needed until I obtain that look. A bit afraid, but I think I can pull it off. I contacted a BUNCH of anodizers and all but 1 said they could not do it. The 1 that said yes took 1-2 weeks to respond between emails, then I looked at his reviews and complaints and figured I better study up and learn how to do this myself. I will practice 1st on some aluminum flat stock before going to my frame. I’ve also been studying plating and will be getting those supplies too. The plating and anodizing is what’s holding me up on a few of my projects right now. I wish all the parts were just stainless or aluminum so I could just polish them up! : )

    911AEF78-A29A-48EC-914A-9D006E8A3646.jpg

  8. #598
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    Quote Originally Posted by berettabone View Post
    I was asking you. I was just curious. My SP is polished internally, shimmed, and I used the Wolff springs. 9# hammer spring and 8# trigger spring. Haven't had a light strike yet. Makes a world of difference in pull and smoothness. Feels like a Kahr trigger basically. Sp101 triggers can be awfully gritty and stiff from the factory.
    Sounds like you’ve turned yours into a smooth operator. I have read of others who have had great results like you did too, and am hoping for the same. That’s comforting to hear that your using the 9# hammer spring and have had no light strikes.

  9. #599
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnR View Post
    A few dry fires with snap caps will tell me if I want the lighter springs. I had a 2" and a 3" 101 in .357 long ago and changed the springs in those with satisfactory results. I have read that the Ruger rimfires can be lightened up a lot without light primer strikes. There's a guy on the Ruger forum who fabricated a whole new part that the spring goes around, a longer one to lighten the spring tension. I forget the pull weight he ended up with but it was shockingly light, and he had zero problems with a whole lot of rounds fired.
    That guy could probably sell a few of those, even more if he made them for the Smith’s too. Your research sounds promising as to what to expect. Hoping all goes well for you man! I used to have a Taurus in 22 magnum. That thing hurt my finger about as bad as a SCCY after a few loads. I couldn’t imagine anyone being a good shot with such a stiff trigger. Maybe with a ton of practice, Lol! Sometimes I wish I had one of those Lyman (spelling?) scales, just to see what difference what I do to these guns actually makes, other than a seat of the pants feel. More so since I never mess with sears or hammer shelves. Congrats on your new Ruger that’s on the way!

  10. #600
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    I think he could market them too, but he said in his first post he wouldn't so don't ask him to

    As for my 101, I'm getting skittish. The seller has good ratings but UPS has said it's been "label created" for four days now. Either he's waiting till he has several shipments to drop off, or UPS is "experiencing supply chain issues" or something's going south. I've emailed the seller twice with no response yet.

    OTOH, I was shopping for aftermarket wood grips and found some cool looking ones, but decided not to buy them (or the springs) until I had the SP101 in hand so I wouldn't jinx it. So I think it'll be ok.

    I think that will be my final Gunbroker adventure. It's gotten too expensive and too much hassle. Buying at the LGS seems like the better deal these days. I've used Florida Gun Trader a couple times, and was lucky not to have met up with a psycho killer, but I don't like going that route unless it's something I just gotta have.
    Man of steel - Kahr T9, SP101, 1911

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