KahrTalk 5K Member
Do I really need a new gun already?
It's just a super tight accurized bushing...Originally Posted by BirdsThaWord
Not that I've been thinking about it much but - LOL
1) CZ 75B PCR https://grabagun.com/cz-75-comp-pcr-...1021_d373ceec9
2) https://cajungunworks.com/product/75...ries-decocker/
3) https://cajungunworks.com/product/ba...ing-sp-01-10x/
KahrTalk 1K Member
I too have made offerings to Klony mouse gods, which they so graciously accepted.I don't think I could do what the Colonel did, though I've been tempted. Having to refinish the gun afterward is my biggest stumbling block. And yes, laboriousness is a word. Not the word, that would be Bird
I hear you on taking a break from something. Seems like the longer something takes the more of a hurry I get in to finish it. I've walked away from some things and come back days later and I've found that my satisfaction with what I'm doing goes back to what it was in the beginning, while the feeling of being in a rush diminishes. I like Chen and WC magwells because they round them at the bottom. But I'll bet you could do the same with the one on your V10, since being stainless and you being very good at smoothing and polishing stainless you could make it look right after filing on it.
I've used quite a few Klonimus parts too. And they're very good at taking offers on the bay. The beavertail on my RIA I got with a $28 offer.
Cool thing about StonerCNC grips is that you can add a 5OFF coupon code to every order. Shipping is free, and they don't charge tax. Most of their G10 grips for 1911s come to $44.95Thanks for the Stoner promo code. Never know when one of us will use those guys (again). Good to know about the Chen and WC magwells. Have not used one of theirs (yet), but better know now what to expect if I do.
As far as the refinishing, once I tackle a carbon steel one, I will already either have the plating stuff up and running, or I will be using gunkote. Watched a few youtube vids and seems straightforward. I have rattled sprayed many a bmx bike part or hot rod part in my time, so think it would come out good enough. I think you could pull of the Colonel heel tuck, seeing/hearing what you’ve done so far. Was just looking at a custom CCO on another forum (you know) where the builder did so. I asked if he relocated the msh pin and he said no. So, it would just be a matter of cutting, shaping, blending. If I do it before you I’ll certainly take pics of each step in case you want to give it a go. By the way, just got rid of a little budget revolver, so I have the $ for my budget starter 1911. Wife can’t say anything because the money is there!
KahrTalk 5K Member
Sure wish we had a “like” button here.
Kinda miss those two CZ75 Compacts I gave away for Christmas. Even though I didn’t get around to shooting them myself, they felt really good in my hands and seemed to be high quality for a modest price.
Some place has the full size standard 75 BD (with the de-cocker lever) for $499.99.
But am not sure how that decocker works.
Am getting the “itch” already.
A man can never have too much red wine, too many books, or too much ammunition
-Rudyard Kipling
KahrTalk 1K Member
Their compacts sure are handsome. Looked at those parts…interesting what they say about the factory barrel play. Pretty cool that can be remedied with just one little part.It's just a super tight accurized bushing...
Not that I've been thinking about it much but - LOL
1) CZ 75B PCR https://grabagun.com/cz-75-comp-pcr-...1021_d373ceec9
2) https://cajungunworks.com/product/75...ries-decocker/
3) https://cajungunworks.com/product/ba...ing-sp-01-10x/
KahrTalk 1K Member
With the heft, I bet those shoot as soft as a 9mm 1911.
Super Moderator
CZ 75 factory bushings can be kind of a pain to replace. You have to remove the front sight pin, then drive the bushing out.
Here's someone's video on replacing one:
Super Moderator
Thanks for the info on the 97 changes.
I like the thin bogie grips. I also have them on my 75B:
Regards,
Greg
Colonel
I don't see how he could cut the corner off without relocating the msh pin. Usually that hole is completely gone. The top edge of the hole is right at the edge of the new curved msh. Getting that new msh hole in the right spot is the critical step. I have a jig I got just for that purpose but danged if I can figure out how to use it. Must need a better drill press or vise or something. I revert back to my ole stanley tape measure, think, ponder, pray, contemplate. Then I drill a tiny hole to confirm I'm in the right spot. Then I drill a slightly larger hole, until I can get a needle file thru and then file to fit the pin. It's scary for me but I do love me a bobtail. Sadly it can't be done on an officers size 1911. I think that would be pretty cool even if it was less of a curve. Guy might just grind off the corner some and leave the pin location alone. Course that might be even scarier.I too have made offerings to Klony mouse gods, which they so graciously accepted.
As far as the refinishing, once I tackle a carbon steel one, I will already either have the plating stuff up and running, or I will be using gunkote. Watched a few youtube vids and seems straightforward. I have rattled sprayed many a bmx bike part or hot rod part in my time, so think it would come out good enough. I think you could pull of the Colonel heel tuck, seeing/hearing what you’ve done so far. Was just looking at a custom CCO on another forum (you know) where the builder did so. I asked if he relocated the msh pin and he said no. So, it would just be a matter of cutting, shaping, blending. If I do it before you I’ll certainly take pics of each step in case you want to give it a go. By the way, just got rid of a little budget revolver, so I have the $ for my budget starter 1911. Wife can’t say anything because the money is there!
In Memory of Paul "Dietrich" Stines.
Dad: Say something nice to your cousin Shirley
Dietrich: For a fat girl you sure don't sweat much.
Cue sound of Head slap.
RIP Muggsy & TMan
"If you are a warrior legally authorized to carry a weapon and you step outside without that weapon, then you become a sheep, pretending that JOCKO will not come today."
KahrTalk 1K Member
You know I was thinking about how close (on an officer) that pin hole is to the corner/bottom of the frame. I mean a rinky, dinky tad of a bit could be removed, but not much at all, if planning on using the same msh pin hole. Re-looking at the pic he posted, I can see that’s exactly what he did. He put all of the “bob” in the msh. This is why I want a Tisas!!! Can’t wait to do this kind of stuff.
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IMG_7610.jpg
KahrTalk 1K Member
I agree Colonel, I don't see how a person could turn a full size into a CCO without losing and then replacing the MSH pin hole. Now possibly it could be done if turning a bobtail into a CCO? You would know more about that possibility than I do.
I ordered a couple of triggers today. Both WC medium length solid aluminum, stainless finished with a serrated, curved face (190M). These will be my first attempt at replacing a trigger. One is for my RIA and the other for my MK IV. I always keep the stock parts in their case, and because there should be nothing in the way of filing on any other part of the gun these should be a no risk proposition. Right now on the three officers it appears that I have a short, a medium, and a long. The DW has the medium and because I don't want to do anything to that other than the magwell I want to standardize all three on a medium trigger. And I tend to like the look of solid triggers over K-Holes and such.
I also ordered a Dawson Extractor tool. They're only $15 and make removing an extractor a breeze. Removing the one on the RIA was a royal pain because of the bend in it, as well as the fact that it's bent further to allow for the smaller cartridge case. I ended up putting the slide in my corner vise and using a 5/16 hex bit to move it over enough to where I could get the hook past the end of the channel. Surprised I didn't garf up the hook in the process, but I got lucky. This took just slips in and pushes it over without damage to the extractor. And because I hear that extractors can be a very common source of problems, from erratic ejection paths to FTE's and FTF's I figure it will be money well spent before I'm done. Here's what it looks like. Pushed in one way it does 9mm, .38, and .40. Flipped over and pushed in the other way does God's caliber.
Also, if you don't already have one, these make getting a safety down past the plunger tip so much less frustrating. I've about used one up already.
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