polymer parts & cleaning supplies

[mfcmb]

I used Eezox, a cleaner/lubricant/rust protector on my CW9 for years with no visible problems to the polymer. It uses trichoroethelene (spelling?) as the solvent.

Gunzilla is another cleaner/lubricant/rust protector that works well and claims to have only organic ingredients.

Both Eezox and Gunzilla are very low viscosity. Eezox leaves a "dry" film, and Gunzilla leaves a thin "wet" film.

Weapon Shield looks and pours like a low viscosity motor oil. If your gun feels a bit loose (like mine does after thousands of rounds) then using Weapon Shield can make the action feel tighter and smoother than using Eezox or Gunzilla.

[Tack]

I'm a Glock Armorer and have maintained 25 Glocks for the past 15 years using non clorinated brake cleaner from VIP and NAPA.

Plus my personal Glocks as well as friends guns and my CW45. I haven't melted a frame yet, so I really wouldn't worry about using non clorinated brake cleaner on your pistol.

YMMV, but that's what's worked for me.

[bamaman]

I have used non-chlorinated brake cleaner for about 7 years on all my pistols. (inside frame, slide, barrel, trigger, everywhere) makes for fast cleaning. Just be sure to re-lube properly after you clean with it. It wipes out all the dirt and grime as well as the grease and oil the pistol is lubed with.

I have no problem or worries with it. I spray inside polymer frames as well as aluminum frames to clean all the springs, pins, nooks and crannies. I agree with jocko, you can buy the gunscrubber stuff, but it costs an arm and a leg, and is the same stuff as the non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Wal-mart, Auto stores, and
Dollar general stores carry this product. $2.00-$3.00 a can

Definately cuts down on cleaning time.

[jocko]

kinda hard today even to find any sprays that are non cholorinated. all of the above names are good stuff. The only reason I have recommended the NAPA 3M brand is that although I have not tried alot of spray cleaners, this damn NAPA 3M stuff is so powerful coming out of the can, that is what sold me.Most all cleaners clean but I found this 3M stuff so powerful that it not only cleaned, it blowed the hell out of areas that one need not dissamble. the striker channel was one area where it not only will clean well but literally blow the crapola out of there.. Hell none of these gun makers make their cleaners, probably very few speciality companies make these chemical sprays, but they will no doubt can their stuff for under your label and call it anything u want. Gun Scrubber comes too mind. Really a good name when your looking for a good cleaner, but just for me to to expensive for what it is . It does make me feel kinda good that some others have come here and stated they have used non cholorinated brake cleaners for many many years, actually longer than I even have for sure.

I recommend with any of the above cleaners to wear rubber gloves or for sure keep that spray off your hands for it will take the oil out ofyour skin real fast. lubricate your hands after cleaning if no gloves are worn. error on the side of caution. no cleaner can clean and yet be gentle to ones skin..

[jocko]

Thanks for all the responses.

I have seen the Kahr 10 point lube diagram. It only shows 1 lube point for the frame, that being the guide rails.

Are there any photos of where to lube on the frame, should I completely de-grease/lube it? I mean besides just spraying with a can of lube......what if I wanted to judiciously apply lube at specific points, what points would they be?

BTW, we got my wife's CW45 back from Kahr and they replaced the trigger bar this time. Hope to get to the range soon and back to the business of shooting holes in paper.....both of us.

spray clean my lower on my kahr, it will clean right down to the bare metal, so one must reoil/relube, what ever is ur choice My method is tw25 on the front dust cover rails and a tad bit of it onthe cocking cam.and some on that half moon part of the trigger bar that is located at the right side back. That half moon comes into contact with the slide when the slide moves backward... a drop of oil on the trigger spring and a drop of oil on the trigger where that curly cue spring hooks over the top of the trigger bar. I always put a drop of oil on one side of the cocking cam and let it run where ever it wants. Mind you when I say a drop of oil I mean a drop of opil. It only takes a drop to get into alot of places. I may even overdue some of these lube spots but that is what I do