Good thread this one.
Good thread this one.
Attitude: it takes 43 muscles to frown, 17 to smile...and 3 for proper trigger squeeze.
The olive branch is considered a symbol of peace, and good will. Last time I checked, it's still a switch.
Recoil spring installation:
http://kahrtalk.com/showpost.php?p=39958&postcount=1
That's good advice written above
Spring installation video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAuHn7dyuWI
Difficulty with recoil spring/guide rod installation (aka guide rod bevel issue):
2edgesword was finding it difficult to insert the recoil spring and guide rod in his CW45:
"O.k., I've disassembled and assembled my CW45 twice for cleaning. The toughest part is reinserting the recoil spring and guide rod assembly. I'm getting it done but lining up the guide rod to insert through the hole in the slide is hit or miss. Any suggestions on getting it right the first time every time?" http://kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?t=5389
Turns out his guide rod end had no bevel on it:
Factory beveled CW45 guide rod:
2edgesword's fix (http://kahrtalk.com/showpost.php?p=61082&postcount=12)
Also see: http://kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?t=6085
Custom replacement guide rods for the CW/P45:
http://guiderod.com/
http://www.tcsgunshop.com/Manufacturingpage.html
Regards,
Greg
Last edited by gb6491; 04-01-2011 at 12:43 PM. Reason: add links
I just found this posting and it helped me tremendously. Up until now I thought I had a defective slide due to the thin,chipped up metal I found between the recoil spring and the barrel of my CW45. I went down to my shop and filed it to look like the pictures submitted by gb6491 and wyntrout. Easy job,just took minutes. Thanks to all the members of this forum that help people like me to learn so much about my guns. An amazing amount of info hidden in the threads of KahrTalk!
I can't go to work today,the voices said "stay home and clean the guns"
Ejector differences:
As 0311Hoosier points out in this thread: http://kahrtalk.com/p-cw-series-pistols/4758-new-ejector-style-cw45.html, there is a difference in size/shape between the PM45 ejector and that of the CW45/P45.
PM45 ejector:
CW45 ejector:
Regards,
Greg
Last edited by gb6491; 01-17-2011 at 12:57 PM.
Replacing the slide stop spring:
Here's how I did it (as always, this is not intended as a "how to", but rather "how I did it". If attempted, YMMV and would be at your own risk):
I used a T6 Torx driver on my CW45. (another person has reported needing a different size on their CW45:
THR - View Single Post - Kahr CW45)
Tweezers or needle nose pliers will make things easier (as does a small probe).
Using the Torx driver, loosen the retaining screw enough to lift the portion of the spring near it's non-captured end out from under the screw/washer and clear of the frame.
With the non-captured end of the spring out from under the screw/washer,...
...it needs to be rotated to this position (non-captured end above the captured end):
At this point the captured end of the spring can be lifted out of it's hole in the frame and the spring removed:
To install, I reversed the procedure and tightened the retaining screw as described here: http://kahrtalk.com/15672-post5.html
Regards,
Greg
Deuce, Thanks for the feedback. I'm glad the tread was of some help to you.
Last edited by gb6491; 07-09-2013 at 09:57 AM.
Slide stop spring adjustment:
After installing the new spring, I did some experimenting with the screw that holds it in place (Note: I was very careful when doing this so as to not over torque the screw and damage the frame). I found that by tightening it just to the point that the spring seems to operate as two distinct springs (where before, the whole spring seemed to move easily as one) made for a much tighter fit of the slide stop. I say seems becuase you may not be able to eliminate all movement along the length of the spring, but just limit it how easily it's done. YOU DO NOT WANT TO OVER TIGHTEN THIS SCREW. I then loosened the screw until the spring would move freely as it had done before; this resulted in the stop being as easily removed as it previously had been. I played with how tight the screw was until I found a median that I liked; leaving it just tight enough that the springs travel seems to mimic two distinct springs and the stop is tight enough that I need to use something to start it out of the frame (though I can do it by hand if need be). My CW45 functions perfectly with the spring adjusted this way: no more inadvertent "lock backs" or the stop being pushed out of the frame by nose dives. Again, this is just what worked for me and how it did it, not how to do it.
Here's a video to better explain (hopefully) how I tightened the slide stop spring screw: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c50P7HCAATo
Later on: I found this posted about tightening the slide stop spring:
“I also called tech support to get the proper way of setting the screw and they said:
The spring looks somewhat like a G and that the screw should be tight enough that the top and left part of it do NOT move. If I understood him correctly, the bottom perhaps from 6 o'clock and going counter clockwise should move and that the rest should be clamped down.” (http://kahrtalk.com/showpost.php?p=3...stcount=post20)
This seems to verify what I found when replacing my slide stop spring.
FWIW: I've been running my larger slide stop (unmodified lever) since replacing the spring (and tightening it as described above) and have not experienced any more premature locking back of the slide (or the slide stop being pushed out by nose dives).
Failure to fire - Light strikes and firing pin protrusion:
gman reported having failures to fire due to light firing pin strikes in his P45: http://kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?t=4927
In the thread he mentions:
As I posted in reply, I measured the protrusion at .035" (+/- .001") in my CW45
gman later reports:
Their is more discussion on firing/striker pin protrusion here:
http://kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?t=153
I'd like to add here that I have a P380 that was having light strikes: the fix for it was to replace the cocking cam. The old cam was not lifting the striker block high enough that it didn't interfere with the striker: http://www.kahrtalk.com/showthread.p...a-happy-ending
Last edited by gb6491; 11-12-2015 at 12:21 PM.
Front sight installation:
Kahr OEM: From this thread http://kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?t=5623
Dawson Precision: Dawson Precision now offers front sights for Kahr CW series pistols: www.dawsonprecision.com SIGHTS FRONT:Kahr Front Sights Category.Originally Posted by gb6491
Installation instructions: http://www.dawsonprecision.com/image...%20Insert2.pdf
See the Dawson night sight installed here: http://kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?p=59903#post59903
Trijicon: Try contacting a Kahr Sales representative about purchasing just the front Trijicon sight.
To install the Trijicon front night sight, you'll first need to remove the OEM sight. It's held on by two plastic posts that have their ends melted to act as rivet heads:
Tape around the sight to protect the slides finish, then use pliers to break the front sight posts (a slight rocking motion will accomplish this):
A quick video of how easy the front sight comes off: OEM sight removal
Then use a tool to remove the remainder of the posts from the holes in the slide.
The Trijicon sight is installed with Loctite and a small screw that goes into the rear post:
Installation went smoothly on my CW45:
However, I did have issue with the sight screw on the CW9 preventing the gun from going into battery (this has been reported by others as well); well actually, it was bad enough to preclude assembly of the pistol. I was able to work around it by cleaning up and enlarging the countersink done by Kahr on the front sight post hole (see post #63 for further instruction in regards to fitting the front sight):
Note: Some members have posted photos of newer CW9 and CM9 pistols that show Kahr has increased the depth of the countersink on these pistols.
Finished:
Last edited by gb6491; 07-09-2013 at 10:02 AM.
dam gb6491. I wish we could get that entire thread of yours as a sticky. Your photo work is excellent as is your fixes to. I have mentioned it on here a coule of times but so far on "deaf ears".
. My PM9 has over 40,000+ rounds through it, and runs much better than an illegal trying to get across our border
NRA BENEFACTOR MEMBER
MAY GOD BLESS MUGGSY
This should DEFINITELY be a stickie. gb6491 is to be commended for his concise explanations and excellent photography.
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